Question on refilling manual tranny

[4gfun]

When I am refilling the tranny and the fluid starts to come out of fill hole, do I plug it up right away or do I wait until it stops draining out of that fill hole?

Does it really make a difference?

Thank you

 

[92AWDHX40]

Overflow, i just cap it off then, it never gets to that point for me.

 

[4g63monstr]

Technically I think it is supposed to drain out. Make sure the vehicle is level front to back when doing this otherwise you may overfill the transmission.

 

[4gfun]

Do you mean that you just cap it off the second you see it overflow? I know it might seem petty, but as you can see I am chasing down a notchy 3rd gear problem.

Thanks

Overflow, i just cap it off then, it never gets to that point for me.

Sorry I missed this...thanks for this thought. If I am overfilling it could I encounter oddball problems? Thanks

Technically I think it is supposed to drain out. Make sure the vehicle is level front to back when doing this otherwise you may overfill the transmission.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Really it isnt going to matter. But manufacturer specs are to have car on a level surface, fill it up, let it drain out of fill plug until it stops, then cap it off.

 

[4gfun]

You know what, that is good enough for me. I'll just follow the factory instructions. I did the opposite.

Thanks

Really it isnt going to matter. But manufacturer specs are to have car on a level surface, pill it up, let it drain out of fill plug until it stops, then cap it off.

 

[drooseph]

Do you mean that you just cap it off the second you see it overflow? I know it might seem petty, but as you can see I am chasing down a notchy 3rd gear problem.

I suggest using BG synchroshift. I slightly overfill, just capped it when it started spilling, mine and it took care of the same 3'rd gear issue. I'd say that the kind of fluid is more important than a couple extra milliletres.

 

[DSM1G90]

Redline MT-90 be the better fluid to use for knotchy trannies. I had basically the same until I shot the Redline in. Then, it became buttery smooth.

Yet, fluids are not designed to be the "miracle fluids" to replace tranny problems outside of a rebuild to replace worn syncros or worn shift fork if the knotchy feel doesn't go away.

 

[96 420a-t]

I use b&m syncromesh I think its called. Trans shifts smooth.

 

[DSM1G90]

I use b&m syncromesh I think its called. Trans shifts smooth.

Called "BG-Syncromesh" - some like it, some don't ....

You're using BG in a Chrysler tranny that is called for ATF+4 only fluids?

 

[agentorange313]

OEM Diaqueen gear oil FTW. Best stuff ever.

Also OP, dont forget to torque down that bolt to the correct spec, its an aluminum housing, becareful.

"Install the drain plug and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) for 2.0L non-turbo engines, or to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm) for 2.0L turbo and 2.4L engines.

When the oil reaches the proper level, install the filler plug and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) for 2.0L non-turbo engines, or to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm) for 2.0L turbo and 2.4L engines."


goodluck

 

[crackajak18]

From my experience in the maintenance field, the rule of thumb I always kept was fill it and let it over fill a bit and cap it when it's pouring out "pencil lead" thin. Never had a problem with that and doesn't over fill it or keep it right on bottom of the plug.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks all. I am using the same brand Coastal 75-90 Coastal GL-4 that was used in the tranny before the clutch/pp/flywheel swap along with a few ounces of Synchromesh. I have read that the Synchromesh is too light in the first place. I am trying to determine whether or not this is a disengagement issue or a tranny fluid issue. 3rd was never notchy before I swapped the clutch/flywheel/pp. I know that a disengagement issue can manifest itself in one gear...on my late DSM it was in 1st gear though.

Funny thing is, that my clutch went bad in 3rd gear when the splines came tearing off the PTT disc hub. Wonder if I did damage to the tranny at that point? Wonder if that is possible not knowing how all of this stuff works.

 

[e85_4g63]

Just a head's up (in case you don't know, and most people don't), GL-4, is simply an emissions standard for production cars. If your car is modified, which 99.9% of members' cars on here are, you should consider not using an emissions friendly oil, but go with something designed for the added stress and heat of "non production" use. Not bashing anyone's choices.

 

[4gfun]

I didn't know that. I thought that GL-4 had less additives than GL-5 thereby having less of a tendancy to eat up Brass Synchros.

Just a head's up (in case you don't know, and most people don't), GL-4, is simply an emissions standard for production cars. If your car is modified, which 99.9% of members' cars on here are, you should consider not using an emissions friendly oil, but go with something designed for the added stress and heat of "non production" use. Not bashing anyone's choices.

 

[DSM1G90]

GL-5 is more for rear ends with metal gears due to the high sulfer content in GL-5 fluids.

GL-5 has a very high shear factor since the gears in the differentials/gearboxes are really put to a lot of hard work and you need that protection- which that same sulfer eats up brass syncros in a heartbeat.


True, the "GL" series is a rating system for different classifications of lubricants. Thus, trannies are designated for GL-4 usage of any type of fluid in that class range.

It's the manufacturers that makes different forms of GL-4 fluids for different applications with specific additives for how the tranny is used - from DD driving to heavy Race and Track.

...it's just this synthetic thing that seems to really boggle a lot of minds as a form of "supermiracle fluid/lubricant" that out wins any form of conventional/dino based fluid which can do the same task - just that conv/dino fluids have to be maintained sooner on a regular basis.

 

[4gfun]

Thank you

GL-5 is more for rear ends with metal gears due to the high sulfer content in GL-5 fluids.

GL-5 has a very high shear factor since the gears in the differentials/gearboxes are really put to a lot of hard work and you need that protection- which that same sulfer eats up brass syncros in a heartbeat.


True, the "GL" series is a rating system for different classifications of lubricants. Thus, trannies are designated for GL-4 usage of any type of fluid in that class range.

It's the manufacturers that makes different forms of GL-4 fluids for different applications with specific additives for how the tranny is used - from DD driving to heavy Race and Track.

...it's just this synthetic thing that seems to really boggle a lot of minds as a form of "supermiracle fluid/lubricant" that out wins any form of conventional/dino based fluid which can do the same task - just that conv/dino fluids have to be maintained sooner on a regular basis.