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Question about stroker...

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stockfornow

15+ Year Contributor
268
1
Nov 28, 2005
Denver, Colorado
Hey, I got couple of questions. How much of bore should be done to the engine in order to make it a 2.3L is it 86mm .040 considering the stock ones are 85mm. Or am I missing something, if I do, can someone teach me how this works, the calculations? And another question if I get the switchable 2-4 wheel drive trannsmission, would I get better gas mileage on a FWD? Thanks for all your help. I'm really getting now into this cars now, I want to be able to build mine for the next summer. Thanks, again to anybody.
 
A MAF translator essentially does the same thing as an S-AFC with the added feature of being able to translate the GM MAF sensor signal into a stock MAS signal. The MAF-T does not have as much flexibilty as the AFC (which already is not much), but it permits venting the BOV without the issues associated with the stock draw-through setup. Both of these devices can get you close to a pretty good tune, but only a custom chip, DSMlink, or a standalone management system will provide you with the capability of getting really near optimal with your fuel and timing maps.

The only way to adjust the stock timing is through the use of

1) a custom EPROM chip,

2) a tuning device that alters the CAS signal (e.g. ECU+),

3) a tuning device that alters the stock maps (e.g. DSMlink), or

4) a standalone management system.

You can affect your overall timing by retarding the base timing a couple degrees, but this won't get you anywhere close to a peak value of 12 degrees on the highest load map with your 1G.
 
andymoraitis said:
Yup, I can understand that. I went 12.50's on less parts than what you have now. It's either driving or tuning, but I'm betting it's more in the tune than anything else. Those AFC's really aren't optimal (yes I know you know that), but before you give up, try a chipped ECU and head back to the dyno one more time. I promise you'll see improvement if you have no boost leaks and strong compression.
The engine is rebuilt, about 30k on it. Haven't checked the compressions because I'm a firm believer in the 'what you don't know won't hurt you' philosophy.:thumb: ROFL

It ran 14.5 @ 94mph with a small 16G, turbo back, and mbc at 15psi. I was knocking off 2.8 60's. That run was a fluke, it was dead on mid 15's and very low 90's the rest of the day with the same crappy 60's. It was my first time out, but on the street it was easily a 13 second car and not being able to run pissed me off perminately and I refuse to go back. I know how fast it is by what cars I can smoke (that wasn't a street racing comment:shhh: ).

The terrible power numbers are part tune, part cursed car simply because I'm the owner. My friends throw my old parts on there Civics, make one run through their neighborhood to tune it and go and dyno more than I did. It just becomes frustrating, and now it randomly decided to stop boosting 20psi (see other topic) so I have one more thing to be mad at.


That's the end of my rant, I don't want to thread jack anymore.
 
stockfornow said:
Thanks a lot. And which cams should I use to still pass emissions? FP3's or Comp 200's. Thanks.

I don't have emissions in Indiana so I can't tell you which ones would pass. The FP3 is obviously a purpose built stroker cam but it may prove to be a problem when trying to pass emissions testing. I would call Forced Performance and see what they think.

Just a personal observation about the Comp 200's, mine had to be advanced on the intake cam to work properly so I'd recommend a set of adjustable gears if you go with these cams. Mine were around 2-3 degrees retarded on a straight up install which simply killed the low end. Truth be told, aftermarket adjustables should be a recommendation for any cam even if the manufacturer claims that they don't need to be degreed.

I would also call Darren King at FFWD since he has tons of experience building strokers and may be able to provide you with a set of cams that will pass emissions and still bring out the potential of the 2.3.

Keep us posted.

Andy

P.S. I do actually run 8 degrees of peak advance now since the cam adjustment created hellatious knock at 12 degrees. When VE goes up, there has to be a tradeoff somewhere on pump gas. Even at 8 degrees and 43 psi of base fuel pressure I still do see 5-7 counts of knock in 3rd. Time for a small octane adjustment to see if that helps it.
 
Indeed, many praises to everyone for their input. With most of the knowledge tossed around in this thread, I've figured [for the most part] what I'll need to assemble a 2.3 stroker.

I think a 2.3 on 10 pounds [s16G], in an auto GSX will be fun. :dsm:
 
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