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Question about solder method to determine proper shim thicknesses (updated with numbers doing it the right way, 2 passes now)

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Here's the flywheel after resurfacing. I assume that based on your standard, there's still plenty of surface to be taken off for future resurfacings?

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Btw, the FSM says to apply 4318025 sealant to the 4 breathers when reinstalling. I haven't been able to find out for sure what this translates to with modern sealants.

Is this basically Permatex Ultra Black, one of the two RTVs one can use to seal the case sections, the other being Ultra Grey?

Also, Tim said to apply Loctite 290 green to the 3 poppet plugs. Why that instead of blue, and is the Permatex 29000 version ok instead?
 

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That flywheel looks fine. Paul is speaking about the cast surface after the outside of the freshly machined clutch area. When that starts to get even, or recessed then, like he said, it starts to look weird.
Just check your step and it looks fantastic. What did it cost to have one surfaced, I need to get my spares done?
 
Step is basically 0.610" +/- 0.001-2 (I don't have a depth mic so I've had to do my best with a caliper and dial indicator). Assuming I measured right, it's within spec if not dead-on. And it cost $85 total. A bit pricey but this is NY.

And so long as the machined/clutch area is above the outside part, I'm good?
 
Especially seeing as I'm basically rebuilding the entire drivetrain and tightening things up. Today I installed the shifter with new bushings and rubber stoppers and aluminum base bushings, along with the shift lever on the trans with a new shoe and bronze bushings. Also derusted and painted everything. I also got some Delrin cable end bushings that'll go on when the trans is reinstalled. I'm also going to fix the clutch pedal slop issue, probably get a new MC, replace the clutch short line and hose, new clutch & PP, fork & fulcrum, throwout bearing, SC, rebuilt trans with new 1/2 hub/slider, 1/2/3/4 synchros, springs & keys, interlock bolt/gasket, shims, etc. If I did it all right, it's going to be amazing.

Today I also dropped, cleaned, derusted & painted the oil pan, and removed the rear seal to be replaced. Tomorrow it all goes back on. I'm probably also going to replace the front wheel bearings & seals before I put everything back together. There was a slight bit of play, nothing too bad but might as well replace them now with the knuckles out. Also replacing the rear ball joints & links. And of course the timing belt and all the rest there. A few more weeks of work and I should have the car done. Well, structurally and mechanically. It really, badly needs a good cleaning, de-denting and de-dinging, paint, buff and shine, new headliner, and a bunch of other minor stuff. Deferred maintenance, basically.
 
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