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quartermaster fork modification

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gorf

20+ Year Contributor
673
16
Dec 13, 2004
Chapel hill, North Carolina
When using the quartermaster clutch "minor modification" of the fork is required for clearance. I have read where some guys ground the fork and did not grind it enough so they had to pull the transmission again. I had a spare fork and went to town on it but I think I may have taken too much off.

Does anyone have good a picture of a ground clutch fork that works with a quartermaster?
 
I have posted them up here before. I will take a look and repost them for you.

Tim Zimmer via Evo Phone
 
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Just to give this thread an update as there is a new forged steel clutch fork on the market from Competition Clutch, I have done measurements with the Quarter Master twin-disk installed and the clutch fork fully clears the clutch cover fasteners without any modification when used with the OEM clutch fork pivot ball or Competition Clutch fork pivot ball.

The benefits of this fork are strength, replacable clutch fork clip and fastener, and no modifications required to the clutch fork to be used with current PTT and Quarter Master clutch assemblies.
 
Bringing this back hoping you see it Tim......

I just installed a QM last night and Installed the Comp fork with a PTT conical tob and a shimmed pivot ball and the fork contacts the cover bolts. I assume you are not supposed to shim the pivot ball with a QM?

On a side note- the supplied pivot ball that comes with the Fork on mine must have had a manufacturing defect as before I even got the trans in the car it sheared off in the trans case and I had to drill it out. This was just sliding the arm back and forth to check operation too.
 
Bringing this back hoping you see it Tim......

I just installed a QM last night and Installed the Comp fork with a PTT conical tob and a shimmed pivot ball and the fork contacts the cover bolts. I assume you are not supposed to shim the pivot ball with a QM?

On a side note- the supplied pivot ball that comes with the Fork on mine must have had a manufacturing defect as before I even got the trans in the car it sheared off in the trans case and I had to drill it out. This was just sliding the arm back and forth to check operation too.

As far as shimming goes, its entirely subjective, but in your case your shim is too thick, or not needed. If you are using a new fork and ball, you typically dont have to shim, but it all comes down to your clutch/flywheel setup because most people get old flywheels stepped and resurfaced, which effectively moves the clutch toward the motor, throwing off the geometry. When Im installing the transmission on the motor, I put the two top bellhousing bolts in to pull the trans to the motor, then push the fork toward the passenger side until the TOB is making contact with the fingers of the PP. If the fork is now pointing toward the drivers side of the car slightly, or in the middle, its ok without shimming, but if its pointing toward the passenger side of the car, you need to shim to get the fork into the correct position, otherwise, you could end up with the fork banging into the side of the square hole in the BH before the clutch releases. Anyway, try taking the shim out and then check the position of the fork as Ive described and you should be fine, the pic Im including is from RRE...

EDIT: Regarding the your pivot ball shearing off, did you use a torque wrench on this? Sounds like she was a bit too tight, though the threads in the case should have failed before the ball broke off. Just use the factory style ball in that case, theyre cheap new...
 

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You do not shim the pivot ball on a twin-disk setup. As for the pivot ball itself, contact Dan at Competition Clutch - [email protected] - and notify him of the failure and the circumstances of it. I have never had a pivot ball shear on a transmission, so something else is going on, or there was a defect.
 
As far as the pivot ball breaking off, It was torqued to 25 ft/lbs and the only deviation was the shim. It looked like a defect in the metal since there was no twist to the break like you would normally see on something overtightened.

Removed the shim, installed trans and car goes into gear nicely, no contact issues with the clutch cover.
 
Would you be able to just flip the bolts so as the bolt head is on the outer surface instead of the nut side? It seems as if there would be less clearance issue by flipping the bolts.
 
I know this is very old but just in case any body is in the same boat as me, I went a different route instead of the 100 dollar competition fork I went with countersunk bolt which is the same style ACT has and it has no issues with the stock fork plus it cost me around 15 bucks on bolts and nuts. Bolts are m5x.80 10.9 grade.

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We use the CC fork so we don't bend the fork during driving and not notice it, just for clarification. My plate is 3200#.
 
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