Quartermaster install

[1983gsp]

Are there any tips or tricks I should be aware of that aren't already discussed in the threads? I want to make sure I don't miss anything.

 

[twicks69]

*Make sure you have the disk assembly in the proper orientation.

*Make sure you are using the proper length flywheel bolts for the application by measuring the thread depth in the crank flange (not the total depth; the threads end before the hole bottom), and measuring the flange thickness of the flywheel itself. Add the two measurements together and that is your maximum flywheel bolt length. Use the flywheel bolt that best fits your application then.

11.7mm long Flywheel Bolts - MD752272
15.2mm long Flywheel Bolts - MD334117
15.5mm long Flywheel Bolts - MD368638
17.0mm long Flywheel Bolts - MD952233
19.5mm long Flywheel Bolts - 1120A062
21.2mm long Flywheel Bolts - MD302074
22.5mm long Flywheel Bolts - MD040557

*If using a Quarter Master flywheel, be sure to use electrical tape and tightly/evenly wrap the alignment tool pilot dowel to the proper hole size. You will want the alignment tool around 0.740" in diameter to smoothly fit in the flywheel pilot hole.

*Make sure you are using a properly clearanced clutch fork. Either a ground-down stock one; or an unmodified Competition Clutch forged steel clutch fork with OEM clutch fork pivot ball -- NO SHIM.

*Use an OEM TOB.

*Clutch cover fasteners get torqued to 22-24 ft/lbs. Flywheel bolts loctite Red with 100 ft/lbs.


Any questions, let me know!

 

[1983gsp]

Awesome...exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

 

[bastarddsm]

I used the automatic trans washer plate with mine. And loctite glued the flywheel to the crank, the washer to the flywheel, and the bolts. kinda like kiggly says to to do with the auto flexplate deal.

 

[94_TSi]

If you are modifying your own fork do not do the whole trans reinstall before checking to make sure the fork clears the pressure plate. Turn the engine by hand.

 

[little-razcal]

As Tim said about getting the proper alignment tool and putting tape around the end to fit the flywheel, make you have a snug fit. Also, when you are installing the clutch and have the alignment tool in keeping everything true, make sure the tool is level and the disc's are completely center within the assembly. I spent a entire afternoon trying to get my tranny line up to the block dowel pins because it was an 1/16th off and wouldn't slide on as usual, only to find out the discs were not exactly center when I tightened the basket bolts. The twins can be a little harder to get the tranny installed, but you can get it.

The best thing I ever did was upgrade to the gear drive with the single input shaft provision. The tranny just slides on like butter every time.

 

[Beckholt99GSX]

*Make sure you are using a properly clearanced clutch fork. Either a ground-down stock one; or an unmodified Competition Clutch forged steel clutch fork with OEM clutch fork pivot ball -- NO SHIM.

Twicks69 do you have to use the OEM pivot ball? what is wrong with the one provided by competition clutch?

 

[twicks69]

You don't have to use the OEM pivot ball, but if you like not having them break on install due to over torqueing them , you would simply use the OEM one which is stronger. They are identical dimensionally.

 

[C_Keagy]

I've noticed on a couple of my alignment tools that the tip that goes into the flywheel is slightly too long causing it to not fully align the 2nd disk. I just cut it down so it fits correctly. This helps with the "tight" fit that some guys see when installing the standard disks.

Also this is probably one of the most important steps:

*Clutch cover fasteners get torqued to 22-24 ft/lbs. Flywheel bolts loctite Red with 100 ft/lbs.

Make sure you torque the cover correctly.

 

[1983gsp]

Good info, I'm running the CC forged fork.