PTT vs Quartermaster

[nufoundglry5]

Hey guys,

I'm performing a few modifications over the winter, EvoIII 16g, injectors, Dsmlink, FMIC, Coilovers, Swaybar, Rear toe Eliminator, and clutch and I'm pretty set on purchasing a twin disk setup for pedal feel and ease of operation. (Yeah I know I wont be making a lot of power but I dont want the troubles that everyone has with disengagment and pedal feel with a heavy disk single) so I was wondering since I cant really find direct comparisons on the quartermaster and Ptt for street use, which would suit my needs better. I only drive the car about 7000 miles a year and wil lbe making occasional trips to the road course and drag strip. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

 

[kingjust]

Hey guys,

I'm performing a few modifications over the winter, EvoIII 16g, injectors, Dsmlink, FMIC, Coilovers, Swaybar, Rear toe Eliminator, and clutch and I'm pretty set on purchasing a twin disk setup for pedal feel and ease of operation. (Yeah I know I wont be making a lot of power but I dont want the troubles that everyone has with disengagment and pedal feel with a heavy disk single) so I was wondering since I cant really find direct comparisons on the quartermaster and Ptt for street use, which would suit my needs better. I only drive the car about 7000 miles a year and wil lbe making occasional trips to the road course and drag strip. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

PTT and be done with it, but... call them up and speak with their engineer. He can tell you what would be best suited for your build. They have 2 types of pressure plates and 2 types of discs. So you can combo them up for your setup. Mine was shipped today!

KJ

 

[1992awdlaser]

There are people on Dsmlink forums with both. Nobody has any complaints about either one of them on there. The other good thing about a twin disk is it is rebuildable.

 

[nufoundglry5]

Yeah I just ordered DSMLink so I don't have access to the forum yet because I bought it through a vendor and haven't received it yet. But anyway, I like the fact it is rebuildable but I thought I read about one of them had thicker disks than the other this and this seems like it would last a little longer?

 

[twicks69]

You want to go with the thicker disks; not because they last longer (they can both last the same amount of time); but for their ability to handle heat better without causing excessive wear or warping.

I run a Quarter Master 7.25" V-Drive (rally) twin-disk with the thick disks, and have had excellent results over the last two years with it. Personally, the QM's and the PTT's are nearly identical otherwise, so you can go with either one. The clutch disks from either manufacturer are interchangable with one another as well (as long as you are using the same thickness disks). As well, when I purchased my clutch, QM did not offer a 7-bolt flywheel, so I ended up with a PTT chromoly flywheel with my QM clutch.

Now, both companies offer these clutches for our cars in either 6-bolt or 7-bolt applications (just different flywheels are used). With the PTT flywheel, my flywheel is thinner at the mounting points than the previous flywheel used (fidanza), and it ended up requiring Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts instead of a manual transmission flywheel bolt. Be sure to still use locktite red and torque them properly.

With both models, when using the 7.25" clutch assembly, you can use a Mitsubishi Throw Out Bearing with no modifications.

Finally, you might need to clearance the clutch fork and the outer disk (facing the pressure plate), and it might require a little grinding to clear properly.


If anyone reading this is intending on doing a different size clutch (i.e. 4.5" or 5.5" setup), you will need to use a Quarter Master or PTT radial Throw Out Bearing properly sized for the clutch, with a custom CNC'd bracket, hydraulics, and then a Mitsubishi flexplate (for your application (6-bolt/7-bolt; AWD-FWD), the crank spacer, Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts, and you will need to redrill or get a custom button flywheel to attach to the flexplate.

I am hoping to try a 4.5" triple Carbon-V setup next, but it is not cheap -- it will cost around $5000+ to do it. The killer is the shimming process and the replacement of the carbon disks and floaters -- that costs $3500 alone.

Either way, I hope that this helps with your decisions.

QM from devotuning.com, or PTT from whoever you want (SBR, etc.). Both are more than enough to handle whatever you will be putting down, and both will be able to handle the heat and abuse of slipping the clutch at the line, and with normal street driving. After break-in, be sure to re-adjust the clutch and re-bleed the hydraulics so you do not cause premature wear to the clutch.

Good luck,

 

[JayRolla]

Just want to add that these clutches are not great for DD's. My buddy is running the devo tuning twin disc setup and its just insanely grabby. If you dont launch it right the car just bucks like crazy. Has lots of noise when taking off and decelerating. I know you dont want the heavy pedal but its nothing near as bad as driving one of these twin disc setups.

I admit its an awesome clutch, but if your not going to be shifting at 9000rpms I would look into something else. Just my opinion.

 

[nufoundglry5]

Just want to add that these clutches are not great for DD's. My buddy is running the devo tuning twin disc setup and its just insanely grabby. If you dont launch it right the car just bucks like crazy. Has lots of noise when taking off and decelerating. I know you dont want the heavy pedal but its nothing near as bad as driving one of these twin disc setups.

I admit its an awesome clutch, but if your not going to be shifting at 9000rpms I would look into something else. Just my opinion.

It's crazy how many different opinions people have. Some people like and some people don't. Yeah, I understand it's going to be grabby, but people say that you get used to it. A single disk can be good but then you hear of people's springs flying out ruining everything or it's not setup correctly with the flywheel and they have disengagement problems. I figured I wouldn't upgrade twice since I plan on building a pretty decent stroker motor within a few years with a FP3065 or equivalent. I really hate upgrading twice and I know neither style clutch will drive like stock but I'd rather have light pedal feel than a heavy feel that has trouble disengaging and destroys my synchros.

 

[blownturbotsi]

I have a few friends with twin disc's and they daily drive their cars. I'm sure the Evo is a little different, but not enough difference to totally shun twin discs from daily driving duties on DSM's.

 

[kingjust]

Just want to add that these clutches are not great for DD's. My buddy is running the devo tuning twin disc setup and its just insanely grabby. If you dont launch it right the car just bucks like crazy. Has lots of noise when taking off and decelerating. I know you dont want the heavy pedal but its nothing near as bad as driving one of these twin disc setups.

I admit its an awesome clutch, but if your not going to be shifting at 9000rpms I would look into something else. Just my opinion.

Well, just so you know, PTT have organic disks that are not as grabby, but handles gobbs of torque and great for DD. You just can't launch it, that's not what it's made for. And with the metallic disks, you can ride those things till the cows come home (don't do it, just a metaphor). So you would just have to get use to it so you can ease it in with out all that bucking. The pressure plate isn't what holds the torque more so then the "twin" disks. That's why it has such a nice pedal feel and riding the clutch it, trying to get smooth engagement 'should' be quite effortless... after many tries

 

[jkimes]

I'm considering the quartermaster clutch also.. I already have a fidanza 7bolt flywheel, will it work fine for this application or do I need a different one?

 

[1992awdlaser]

The twin disk will come with its own flywheel.

 

[Black95awd]

The twin disk will come with its own flywheel.

True! the 7.25 clutch will not work with a standard flywheel.

Personally I think it is overkill to have on a 16g car unless you are on E85 making Curt Brown power, but to each his own.

and on a side note the PTT weighs (as a whole) as much as just a pressure plate and disc from ACT

 

[1fastlaser]

I think the clutch is totally daily drivable. Ive done it acouple days in traffic with no issues, and city driving. Man ill tell you it definatly frees up some weight there, and lets the motor rev!

 

[LaserAWD]

I've got a QM Twin and wish I had done it while I was still running a 16g just for the faster shifting. My transmission is stock and before with my 2600 I could barely speed shift at 6500-7000rpms and now with the QM twin I can speed shift at 8000rpms all day long. In fact I haven't missed a shift at the dragstrip since I put the QM twindisc in my car. I can't say the same for my old ACT 2600.

I daily drive mine right now with no issues at all. In fact I took my Laser on a work trip over the last two weeks and put ~1600 miles on it driving back and forth from KY to northern IN and had no issues. It does grab a bit but I got used to it the first day and never even stalled my car.

As another note I took my ACT 2600 PP out and had between .018 and .020" of warpage, measured with some feeler gauges, between the OD and ID of the PP surface. No wonder I couldn't shift fast at high rpms with it. The outside edge of the clutch disc was worn down but the inside part still looked new. The 2600 just couldn't take the heat of slipping it at the drag strip.

I've never run a PTT so I can't tell you which clutch to choose, however I can say for certain that you should get a twin disc no matter what.