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Pulley setup WTF?!?!

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Craig13

Proven Member
75
27
Mar 25, 2020
Surprise, Arizona
I recently removed the engine from my 97 GST and cannot seem to find an answer to my peculiar pulley setup. I am aware that the standard 4G63 setup has three belts. My car has A/C and PS deleted so I would only then have one belt going around the alternator, crank, and the water pump. Well that's where it gets weird. I will list the issues below:
1. There is a tensioner between the alternator and the crank. I am assuming this is here because I have an Evo 8 OFH so I would think i can just incorporate it into the setup?
2. The water pump has a smooth pulley, not a grooved one. This typically means that the backside of a grooved belt would ride against this but I don't see how or why this would happen.
3. The alternator from a standard 2G does not fit. The one in the car is from a 2000-2003 Galant. The difference is that the mounting flanges are closer together than the regular one. I have a photo below for reference. The alternator on top is the Galant one and the 2G one in on bottom.
4. From what I have gathered, the belt for the belt for the crank/ water pump/ alternator routing should be a 4 groove belt. Well my crank and my alternator are both 6 groove. Side note, all of the Galant alternators that I can find are 5 groove, not 6, but the part numbers match up.

So needless to say, I am extremely confused at this point on what exactly I need to buy and how I need to route my belt. Any and all help is greatly appreciated as always!

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Exactly what I thought. The alternator bracket is built into the oil pump so it must have a EVO pump on it also which must be wider than a DSM as they are partially built into the front case/oil pump casting.
 
Yep, like these guys said. Evo bottom end. Which means it should be a 3g style block and there's a bellhousing/block ear hole that doesn't line up to the trans. The water pump is definitely 3g/Evo style, and while it will bolt up to a standard DSM 7 bolt block, it does not completely seal on the front (exhaust) side of the block. Can you take a pic of your bellhousing flange?

Either way, kinda cool if it works, I am designing a serpentine setup for 6 bolts to save space and make belt replacement easier.

You can use string to measure the proper belt length for your setup and get the serpentine, or swap back to standard DSM stuff, but personally I'd keep it as is.
 
I will take a photo when I get home in two hours. I recall seeing an bolt ear that appeared to have been cut off of the transmission when I was separating it from the block. It was on the exhaust side of the block above the slave cylinder area.

So the water pump on this should be fine though since it is an Evo block and Evo water pump?

I intend to leave it as it if possible. It was a running and driving car when I took the engine out, it just needed to be gone through and maintenance done and such.

Out of curiosity, is there any real benefit to having an EVO 8 block and bottom end?

I guess I won't have to worry so much about the dreaded 7 bolt crankwalk then...hahaha
 
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If it was a running, driving car before, then yes it is fine. The Evo water pump is reverse rotation, and as long as it's set up that way then it will run fine.

I was part of a discussion years ago about using a third gen block in a 2G DSM, but I never have had a chance to try it out yet.

I don't know if there would be an issue with not using that one transmission / bellhousing bolt, but we discussed it, likening it to not using the small bolt that goes in from the block side to the transmission. It could cause clutch issues.

either way, if it worked before, you could always keep going with it until you see an issue. Personally I was going to try and make a bracket that would allow the use of a 3G block in a 2G vehicle, without compromising strength.
 
Yep, like these guys said. Evo bottom end. Which means it should be a 3g style block and there's a bellhousing/block ear hole that doesn't line up to the trans. The water pump is definitely 3g/Evo style, and while it will bolt up to a standard DSM 7 bolt block, it does not completely seal on the front (exhaust) side of the block. Can you take a pic of your bellhousing flange?

Either way, kinda cool if it works, I am designing a serpentine setup for 6 bolts to save space and make belt replacement easier.

You can use string to measure the proper belt length for your setup and get the serpentine, or swap back to standard DSM stuff, but personally I'd keep it as is.
Here is some pics of what I believe is the area you are taking about. It appears that a bolt flange has been ground off of the transmission as well as the engine side. There is also a little piece of metal that goes through the block and open hole in the trans just under this area. I believe this may have been done to strengthen the connection in this area.

I have also been able to all but confirm that it is an Evo 8 block. On what is now the intake side of the engine there is the attachment points on the oil pan for the oil drain tube from the turbo. This has been welded shut but is still there. I have also done significant comparisons on other parts and it seems to be exactly what you guys say it is.
 

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