Slippi84
20+ Year Contributor
- 4,454
- 20
- Jun 8, 2005
-
Cinnaminson,
New Jersey
Do you ever answer a question or respond to a thread without dropping a status update on your buildJust keep at it. The engine part isn't very hard once you decide which displacement you want to use. After that it is a matter of brand preference.. Pick your favored Aluminum rods, pick your favored piston (9:1 range) make sure it has the 22mm wrist pin and if not, have it machined. After that its all up to the machine shop.
I myself have a machined Buschur butterflied crank and Moroso race oil pan along with the Kiggly girdle as well as an O-Ringed block. These are all additions that you don't really need to run big times. Guys have gone fast with much less. Sometimes less is more.
As far as the head goes many have proven time and time again that fresh polished 1g head is fine. No need for over sized valves, colossal cams or extensive porting. However, the addition of any of those will help you towards your goal. My head is personally ported, over sized valves, titanium retainers, sleeved and the such. Again, overkill but if you can afford it, remember it will make your goals that much easier to attain, and your car will be a little more forgiving.
Being totally honest with you you can throw together a stock head iron rod motor with a good set of cams such as the FP2s or Kelford 272s (much bigger) and run single digits..
ITS ALL IN THE TUNE AND NO MOD IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE DRIVER MOD.
At the end of the day there are way too many ways to skin a cat. Just pick a path and go for it gungho.
Keep on plugging along. 2010 is looking promising, DSMs just keep getting faster and faster! I just spent a little bit of time working on my wire tuck and managed to relocate my full engine harness so its hidden. As soon as these pictures load I'll have them up in my Raven build thread.
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