Possible to separate Transmission from Block without removing axles, fluid and Tcase?

[lil corb]

So I'm really upset right now, I know it's more of my fault for not knowing this but anyways...

Apparently the last owner never had a Starter plate installed so while re-installing everything and getting to the point of almost starting her up I realized I need to install one.

I just filled the tranny with fluid last weekend, here is my question.

Can I remove the axles from the HUBs, leave fluid in, and leave the Tcase connected and separate the tranny from the block to install the stupid starter plate using a box wrench without removing twin disc set up?

I know about having to remove mount and all that but I need to get this car started! It's been down for almost 3 yrs! I'm even researching about ill effects of not having the starter plate at all... still an option so far.

 

[bryanwheat]

You are going to have to remove the transfer case or else the tranny won't separate from the engine. You can just leave the drive shaft , unbolt it and swing it to the side with the drive shaft still attached. As for the axles, it would really make it a pain in the ass to drop the tranny with them installed. Why don't you just drain the oil into a clean pan, and put it back in afterwards? As for installing the plate without removing the twin disc, i can't tell you for sure. Some flywheels allow enough room to get in there and put the bolts in and some don't. You will just have to see.

 

[lil corb]

You are going to have to remove the transfer case or else the tranny won't separate from the engine. You can just leave the drive shaft , unbolt it and swing it to the side with the drive shaft still attached. As for the axles, it would really make it a pain in the ass to drop the tranny with them installed. Why don't you just drain the oil into a clean pan, and put it back in afterwards? As for installing the plate without removing the twin disc, i can't tell you for sure. Some flywheels allow enough room to get in there and put the bolts in and some don't. You will just have to see.

So it sounds like there isn't a way to do it without dropping the whole tranny?

Also, what's the ill effects of running without one?

 

[92AWDHX40]

The whole tranny you have to get it off enough to get a plate in there then bolt the plate to the block, so i always pull mine completely off, i did that once had wrong starter plate. uggg.

 

[lil corb]

The whole tranny you have to get it off enough to get a plate in there then bolt the plate to the block, so i always pull mine completely off, i did that once had wrong starter plate. uggg.

Tell me about it.
Well, hopefully I can get to it without removing flywheel. Anyone have any experience with the Quartermaster flywheel in terms of spacing allowed?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Flywheel comes off plate goes on then flywheel, no way around it. Plate mounts behind flywheel.

 

[black_gst]

Tell me about it.
Well, hopefully I can get to it without removing flywheel. Anyone have any experience with the Quartermaster flywheel in terms of spacing allowed?

there are two bolts that go behind the flywheel that need to go im. that being said i never put those bolts back. it is possible to seperate the trans and engine and slip the starter plate in. i have done it. its a PITA but it is possible. but i think its easier then pulling the trans

 

[turboglenn]

Yours might be different since i9t's a 1g car, but one thing i ran into trying something similar is that the inner "cup" of the passenger side CV axles wont allow you to get the trans in or out without removing them from the trrans, they'll hit the subframe and stop you both directions, the half shaft you ought to be able to get away with thouugh.. as for the T case, there's seals on the trans and the case where they join and it can't leak there it only leaks at the driveshaft if i recall so drop it out of the way and just tip it up against the wall with the output shaft pointing up uin the air and it won't leak

best you can do is try and find some of those red "cap-plug" (name brand when i orderd them once) things. and stick it in the hole sealing against the axle seal to keep from losing fluid out of there.

OR what would also be easy enough is CLEAN out a drain pan really nicely, drain your fluid into it and then put it back in a bottle or soething so you can re-use it if you're that concerned about replacing it already. Hell i would just do it that way and be done with it

 

[lil corb]

there are two bolts that go behind the flywheel that need to go im. that being said i never put those bolts back. it is possible to seperate the trans and engine and slip the starter plate in. i have done it. its a PITA but it is possible. but i think its easier then pulling the trans

Would there be any ill effects of starting the car and breaking in the motor without it. I'll probably end up paying someone to do it, if the price is right. I just need to start the motor up as it's been built for a year now. Don't want seals and gaskets cracking.

 

[turboglenn]

there are two bolts that go behind the flywheel that need to go im. that being said i never put those bolts back. it is possible to seperate the trans and engine and slip the starter plate in. i have done it. its a PITA but it is possible. but i think its easier then pulling the trans

haha possible but you would need E.T. to have some one with long enough fingers to start the 2 10mm bolts threading into the block without removing the flywheel .. Hate to say it but there's no easy way out of this one, do it the right way and be sure it's correct, try and half ass it and you will probably have more issues that you do already, or at least a bigger headache

 

[bryanwheat]

Would there be any ill effects of starting the car and breaking in the motor without it. I'll probably end up paying someone to do it, if the price is right. I just need to start the motor up as it's been built for a year now. Don't want seals and gaskets cracking.

I would not do that, especially being that you have an expensive flywheel in there with that twin disc. That plate is there to center the starter, without it the starter can flex and move around and cause bad things to happen.

 

[kidtsi]

Just sepate the tranny a little bit and slide the plate in. you dont have to put the 2 bolts back, when you bolt the tranny that wouldd do it.

 

[lil corb]

Thanks everyone for their help.

Looks like I just have to remove the Tcase (leave dshaft), drain fluid (into clean pan), Remove axles but leave them in the HUB like the method on VFAQ then seperate tranny from motor and slip starter plate without bolting those two 10mm and make sure they go through the dowels. Hopefully it'll work!

Thanks!

 

[kidtsi]

Thanks everyone for their help.

Looks like I just have to remove the Tcase (leave dshaft), drain fluid (into clean pan), Remove axles but leave them in the HUB like the method on VFAQ then seperate tranny from motor and slip starter plate without bolting those two 10mm and make sure they go through the dowels. Hopefully it'll work!

Thanks!

When I did it I didnt remome anything or draned any fluid jus remove the nolt from the tranny mount and separated the tranmy a little bit, but whatever works best for you.

 

[lil corb]

When I did it I didnt remome anything or draned any fluid jus remove the nolt from the tranny mount and separated the tranmy a little bit, but whatever works best for you.

Holy smokes!!! Did that really work for you? Anyone else try this?

I'll buy you a beer if it's possible!

 

[turboglenn]

hell, as long as the the starter plate doesn't end up rubbing the flywheel from any flex that might happen when the bell housing is tightened around the outside you'd be good to go without putting the 2 10mm's in there, I didn't even think about it that way but that's what i would do, you probably wouldn't even have to sperate the axle out of the trans to move it enouhg to do it that way!

 

[black_gst]

When I did it I didnt remome anything or draned any fluid jus remove the nolt from the tranny mount and separated the tranmy a little bit, but whatever works best for you.

hell, as long as the the starter plate doesn't end up rubbing the flywheel from any flex that might happen when the bell housing is tightened around the outside you'd be good to go without putting the 2 10mm's in there, I didn't even think about it that way but that's what i would do, you probably wouldn't even have to sperate the axle out of the trans to move it enouhg to do it that way!

as long as you get the starter plate on the dowels your good, like i said i never put those two stupid 10mm bolts in that are behind the FW the trans keeps that plate in place just fine.

as ling as your starter plate isnt all beat up its not gonna flex, it have 6 bolts going through it and its sandwiched between the block and trans, its not going anywhere

 

[lil corb]

Well, I installed the starter plate installed this past saturday. I can attest to just removing the 2 transmission bolts on top of the transmission, the bolts that connect the tranny and engine and I also had to remove the T-stat housing. But I was able to get it separated and use the the bolts to hold the plate between the block and tranny.

Once again, thanks Tuners for the all the help!