2G Plugs won't stay dry

[Myk984g63]

I can't get my car to crank over and every time I pull the plugs out they're soaking wet with fuel and I don't know how to make any adjustments on ECM link or the right way for that matter. almost every time I go to start the car it backfires so loud the neighbors down the street can hear it. Someone please help me!?

I recently upgraded a 850 CC injectors and aem afpr and a 255 fuel pump

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Are the plugs, wires, and coils in good shape? Is the firing order correct. When i first got mine a few years ago it did the same thing and ended up being an intermittently firing coil pack. I would also move the engine to top dead center and verify that the timing marks line up too. A good boost leak test might not be a bad idea either.

 

[Myk984g63]

Yeah I've done all that and verified it all but I've also installed a bunch of new parts including 850cc injectors, a sheet metal intake manifold, new exhaust manifold, HTA 68 turbo, external wastegate, new front mount intercooler, new S90 throttle body

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Wow thats alot of changes. Did you switch to air density or are you running the factory MAF?

 

[Myk984g63]

Factory maf

 

[JeffGS-T97]

The thing that stands out to me is the S90 TB. If I am correct in saying that part does not have a fast idle air valve or Idle Air control sensor which could make for a very rich condition on a cold start until the ECU is programmed correctly to run without them.

 

[Myk984g63]

I installed both of them on there it had a place for them

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Very nice sure that bad boy was expensive!
Only thing else could be logging some data with link and upload it here if possible. Mechanically the other issue could be stuck open injectors. Is gas accumulating in the spark plug wells?

 

[DSMPT]

Sorry to cut in, but was the car running without any issues before installing those parts? And are you actually the one who installed all the parts or you bought a project car as is from someone?

In case, if the car was running well before installing the parts, and if you still have the stock parts that you removed, I recommend to go back to the stock condition as much as you can, and make the car running as it should first including ECMlink setup. Then install back the parts "one by one" and making the car running well each time when you install. Generally this would be the easiest and quickest way to make the car back on the road again, in case if you don't seem to find the issues.

If you don't have the stock parts and if you bought the car as this condition, the situation would be more complicated to solve issues at a time. Since this is online, the infos that you would be able to provide us are limited and possibly there are more hidden mechanical/tuning issues that you haven't realized yet.
For now, your question posts are actually too vague, so it's hard to give you some pinpoint answer. That's why not many members could chime in to help you. But if you would make a question more specifically by narrowing down the question, more members would be able to chine in and you would get more supports for sure. There are many knowledgeable members in each section and they would chime in to help you.

So first, why don't we try to find and fix mechanical issues, then later ask about ECMLink setup. Tuning won't fix mechanical issues and mechanical issues will disturb the tuning, so.
Make 100% sure that you have no vacuum/boost leak since it's more critical if you use a MAF sensor, and also make sure the fuel pressure and the valve timing are properly set.
Did you surely fix the injector connector order, spark plug wire order and the settings in ECMLink that I told you before including the TPS adjustment?

 

[JeffGS-T97]

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-dsmlink-tuning-guide.262460/
I hope this helps. It's a DSM link training guide by one of the other members.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Sorry to cut in, but was the car running without any issues before installing those parts? And are you actually the one who installed all the parts or you bought a project car as is from someone?

In case, if the car was running well before installing the parts, and if you still have the stock parts that you removed, I recommend to go back to the stock condition as much as you can, and make the car running as it should first including ECMlink setup. Then install back the parts "one by one" and making the car running well each time when you install. Generally this would be the easiest and quickest way to make the car back on the road again, in case if you don't seem to find the issues.

If you don't have the stock parts and if you bought the car as this condition, the situation would be more complicated to solve issues at a time. Since this is online, the infos that you would be able to provide us are limited and possibly there are more hidden mechanical/tuning issues that you haven't realized yet.
For now, your question posts are actually too vague, so it's hard to give you some pinpoint answer. That's why not many members could chime in to help you. But if you would make a question more specifically by narrowing down the question, more members would be able to chine in and you would get more supports for sure. There are many knowledgeable members in each section and they would chime in to help you.

So first, why don't we try to find and fix mechanical issues, then later ask about ECMLink setup. Tuning won't fix mechanical issues and mechanical issues will disturb the tuning, so.
Make 100% sure that you have no vacuum/boost leak since it's more critical if you use a MAF sensor, and also make sure the fuel pressure and the valve timing are properly set.
Did you surely fix the injector connector order, spark plug wire order and the settings in ECMLink including the TPS adjustment?

Good stuff

 

[Myk984g63]

Sorry to cut in, but was the car running without any issues before installing those parts? And are you actually the one who installed all the parts or you bought a project car as is from someone?

In case, if the car was running well before installing the parts, and if you still have the stock parts that you removed, I recommend to go back to the stock condition as much as you can, and make the car running as it should first including ECMlink setup. Then install back the parts "one by one" and making the car running well each time when you install. Generally this would be the easiest and quickest way to make the car back on the road again, in case if you don't seem to find the issues.

If you don't have the stock parts and if you bought the car as this condition, the situation would be more complicated to solve issues at a time. Since this is online, the infos that you would be able to provide us are limited and possibly there are more hidden mechanical/tuning issues that you haven't realized yet.
For now, your question posts are actually too vague, so it's hard to give you some pinpoint answer. That's why not many members could chime in to help you. But if you would make a question more specifically by narrowing down the question, more members would be able to chine in and you would get more supports for sure. There are many knowledgeable members in each section and they would chime in to help you.

So first, why don't we try to find and fix mechanical issues, then later ask about ECMLink setup. Tuning won't fix mechanical issues and mechanical issues will disturb the tuning, so.
Make 100% sure that you have no vacuum/boost leak since it's more critical if you use a MAF sensor, and also make sure the fuel pressure and the valve timing are properly set.
Did you surely fix the injector connector order, spark plug wire order and the settings in ECMLink that I told you before including the TPS adjustment?

You by far have no means to be sorry I appreciate you cutting in and always listening to the wise men! unfortunately I do not have the stock parts and yes I installed all the parts and I'm pretty knowledgeable when it comes to installing the parts it's just this whole ECM link is throwing me for a loop it's very hard to understand sometimes and I'm 100% positive it's some kind of setting in that is making it run way too rich. I'm going to go double check everything because I actually have Rix racing going to attempt to try a remote tune and see what he can do.

 

[pauleyman]

You're a little unclear. You don't know how to deal with ecmlink...but you did at least make a change when installing new injectors right? You're not still at stock settings?

 

[Vegas Smith]

ALWAYS post a log.

 

[92AWDHX40]

A log will give us a really good idea of where to help.

 

[TerminalTalon]

You need a reputable tuner to make a base map for all of that. A whole lot of stuff changed and needs to be calibrated then actually tuned.

 

[DSMPT]

He has already uploaded some logs in his another no-start issue posts. But he still had some mechanical issues that he had to fix before cranking. The engine finally started up after fixing a couple of issues but the idle is unstable. I still see some more things he should fix under the hood.

@Myk984g63
At the moment I can tell you is below. When you finish those things below, please upload a new log. So, the members who are good at ECMLink would be able to tell you something more.
- There are 3 small ports on the intake pipe between MAF and turbo. Block off all open ports.
- Install the clamp straight the one before throttle body and use a T-bolt clamp on the throttle body. (And do a boost leak test)
- I see no dump pipe on wastegate. You need one, otherwise you will burn somethings around the gate once you start to drive the car.
- I think you haven't set the base fuel pressure, this is important. Your car now starts but doesn't idle well. So with the engine off, loosen the nut on the fuel pressure regulator, connect to ECMLink and go to Misc Tab, check "Activate fuel pump", adjust the fuel pressure by an allen key, set it 43.5 psi. This is just for starting up, you have to set it again once you have the idle stable.
- Go to ECU Inputs Tab, change the intake temp connected sensor to Factory/none.
- Uncheck "Lock intake temp and baro pressure".
- Adjust the TPS properly by following the links below. You now have 1.12v when it's fully closed. Make it 0.63v.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinktpsadjustment
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3tpsadj

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[JeffGS-T97]

He has already uploaded some logs in his another no-start issue posts. But he still had some mechanical issues that he had to fix before cranking. The engine finally started up after fixing a couple of issues but the idle is unstable. I still see some more things he should fix under the hood.

@Myk984g63
At the moment I can tell you is below. When you finish those things below, please upload a new log. So, the members who are good at ECMLink would be able to tell you something more.
- There are 3 small ports on the intake pipe between MAF and turbo, block off all open ports.
- Install the clamp straight that one before throttle body and use a T-bolt clamp on the throttle body. (And do a boost leak test)
- I see no dump pipe on wastegate. You need one, otherwise you will burn somethings around the gate once you start to drive the car.
- I think you haven't set the base fuel pressure, this is important. Your car now starts but doesn't idle well. So loosen the nut on the fuel pressure regulator, connect to ECMLink and go to Misc Tab,
check "Activate fuel pump", adjust the fuel pressure by an allen key, set it 43.5 psi. This is just for starting up, you have to set it again once you have the idle stable.
- Go to ECU Inputs Tab, change the intake temp connected sensor to Factory/none.
- Uncheck "Lock intake temp and baro pressure".
- Adjust the TPS properly by following the links below. You now have 1.12v when it's fully closed. Make it 0.63v.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinktpsadjustment
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3tpsadj

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You really go out of your way to help people, i think thats awesome.

 

[DSMPT]

You really go out of your way to help people, i think thats awesome.

I would like to avoid to see that new people finally despair at their DSM that they just bought, and end up to part-out or sell it even before making it run as it should. That's kinda sad and no good for the platform. I believe this is the most difficult and complicated moment for new DSMers and the main reason to give up. I would like to let all new people know that actually fixing all mechanical issues is the first step of tuning process. So trying to give a little guide to clear the first hurdle.
Also I believe this is one of forum's pros. I know that now many people are in facebook groups and most of new people go there first. There is pros and cons, but facebook groups can't actually solve this kind of issues due to many misinformations, confusions, trolls, hard to search old posts etc etc. And some groups are very mean/harsh especially with new people.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I would like to avoid to see that new people finally despair at their DSM that they just bought, and end up to part-out or sell it even before making it run as it should. That's kinda sad and no good for the platform. I believe this is the most difficult and complicated moment for new DSMers and the main reason to give up. I would like to let all new people know that actually fixing all mechanical issues is the first step of tuning process. So trying to give a little guide to clear the first hurdle.
Also I believe this is one of forum's pros. I know that now many people are in facebook groups and most of new people go there first. There is pros and cons, but facebook groups can't actually solve this kind of issues due to many misinformations, confusions, trolls, hard to search old posts etc etc. And some groups are very mean/harsh especially with new people.

Here here. I don't even have Facebook. This is the only online community I am part of and its because of this atmosphere and genuine passion for the platform. Without the members my car would probably not be running very well. You set a very good example sir.

 

[Myk984g63]

@DSMPT here is a pic of my engine bay after making adjustments and a few new things...

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[Myk984g63]

Ordered a dump tube for wastegate as well. It's not going to flood/mess anything up by activating fuel pump for that long while engine is off?

 

[DSMPT]

@DSMPT here is a pic of my engine bay after making adjustments and a few new things...

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So you already adjusted the TPS and the base fuel pressure? If you did and if you think it's all set including timing, try to upload a log.
Just a few more things, you should replace the 2 clamps before throttle body with T-clamps the one with a nut like the ones you are using before BOV. If it doesn't have vacuum/boost leak from there, for now not necessary to replace, but once you start to boost, those clamps would possibly cause boost leak. And You are running a MAF sensor pre BOV, so the BOV should be recirculating to intake pipe before turbo.

Ordered a dump tube for wastegate as well. It's not going to flood/mess anything up by activating fuel pump for that long while engine is off?

That's a good news!

 

[Myk984g63]

Car is idiling but pretty rough. Ive included the data log after making all the adjustments as recommended...