Please help with Cyclone

[goofynick6]

The canister is a source of vacuum to keep them pulled open when you're in boost, and it has to be properly hooked up along with the switches and or solenoids depending on how it is setup.

I think that something setup with with a microswitch on the throttle (like nitrous) and an rpm switch would be the best, that way if you're cruising at any speed, they are short runners, but if you're wide open throttle and above, say 4000 rpms then they open.

How much for one to the people selling? I have a 1g intake I could trade.

Nick

 

[Talon4ever]

Holy crap! I just put the stock intake manifold back on and wow you can feel the difference. It pulls very hard all the way to redline and feels like it would pull past that. I could never redline the cyclone cuz the rpms would raise so slow. I am glad I switched back. I am going to head to the 1/8 mile track Friday and see what I can do. I did a best of 8.1 on the 14b so we will see whats up. That is if the clutch holds. I only have a stock clutch in right now. But it is brand new so it should be good for a couple of passes until I get my 2600 put in.

 

[goofynick6]

I feel like the valves were never opening, or they were closing when you thought they were opening. You should have tried tying them open and driving; they flow identical to the 1g pretty much, so I don't see how it would be different.

Nick

 

[gixrman]

Significantly less Top-end power

This manifold is great for a daily driver with a 14b or 16G. , you can tell that above 4000 rpms the motor struggles to reach redline. With the US manifold the motor would redline with no problem, but the cyclone has some trouble.

This might sound stupid but I was wondering if you could open up the short runners for better topend?

 

[Defiant]

This might sound stupid but I was wondering if you could open up the short runners for better topend?

When they're set up right, everything's open above a certain rpm/boost level.

But whatever, delighted the Side of Good prevailed, and that another Cyclone was quashed.

Title suitably corrected.

 

[goofynick6]

When they're set up right, everything's open above a certain rpm/boost level.

But whatever, delighted the Side of Good prevailed, and that another Cyclone was quashed.

Title suitably corrected.

What do you have against the manifold? This is usually how expensive, high-powered cars do things. Porsche, Audi, etc, and Ford racing sells a $2500 magnesium racing manifold for the mustangs that uses variable intake geometry.

I think if done right, getting the benefit of short and long runners can be very good for power, despite the fact that probably 300 people on here have run 5 second 1/4 miles on a 1g with a stock throttlebody or however the usual story goes...

 

[jdm4g63]

Is there any reason get a cyclone mani over a good sheet metal one?

 

[thegreatms]

Is there any reason get a cyclone mani over a good sheet metal one?

the theory is that even a good sheet metal will hurt your low/mid rpm power. A cyclone is supposed to keep the long runners to have that low rpm torque. And then have shorter runners for more power in the upper rpms. Problem is that the cyclones "short runners" are still pretty long so a good sheet metal IM will be way better at high rpm. I've heard the cyclone is good for people that want really good drivability.

 

[gixrman]

Thats what I am looking for since I have a DD and am happy with the power output of my EVO16g. Still my try the cyclone intake and open up the short runners to see if I can keep the topend. Don't know till you try.

 

[Stapl3]

Holy crap! I just put the stock intake manifold back on and wow you can feel the difference. It pulls very hard all the way to redline and feels like it would pull past that. I could never redline the cyclone cuz the rpms would raise so slow. I am glad I switched back. I am going to head to the 1/8 mile track Friday and see what I can do. I did a best of 8.1 on the 14b so we will see whats up. That is if the clutch holds. I only have a stock clutch in right now. But it is brand new so it should be good for a couple of passes until I get my 2600 put in.

Clearly wasn't installed correctly then. It seems more difficult to install than most think. This is why the manifold has such a bad rap.

Sorry chief.

 

[TargeT]

the stock 1g manifold flows 3CFM more than the Cyclone at 6,500 RPMs


its difficult to hook up and a lot of people are running on the wrong runners at the wrong time, when its hooked up correctly you get a lot of lowend torq...

 

[JiveMasterT]

so if you wanna do it you should just use some window switches?

 

[GPTourer]

so if you wanna do it you should just use some window switches?

Was that a joke? Ha, do you propose switching it manually at the proper time? They have this on the '03+ Eclipse GTS except its called MVIM (Mitsu Variable Intake Manifold) where it offers a 10hp increase over the other V6's. I wonder how much has changed over the years and why it isn't implemented on a lot of their other cars.

 

[goofynick6]

To set it properly, you'd need a boost sensitive (hobbs) switch set for whatever, 8-10 psi, and an rpm switch, so that once it is over 4,000rpms (for instance) AND over 8-10psi, then it would open the shorter runners. Something to that effect; you would have to dyno with the runners closed and with them open and then find the point where one starts to die and one starts to take off and use that as the switchover point.

Anyway, I'm still undecided..hehe.

Nick

 

[JiveMasterT]

To set it properly, you'd need a boost sensitive (hobbs) switch set for whatever, 8-10 psi, and an rpm switch, so that once it is over 4,000rpms (for instance) AND over 8-10psi, then it would open the shorter runners. Something to that effect; you would have to dyno with the runners closed and with them open and then find the point where one starts to die and one starts to take off and use that as the switchover point.

Anyway, I'm still undecided..hehe.

Nick

thanks for clearing that up.

 

[Defiant]

What do you have against the manifold?

Nothing against the manifold, per se. But it would seem there haven't been twenty of them set up to run properly on this continent. Guess who they first come and ask why not, and second, then argue about it with?

See Post #13:
"I know for a fact that the butterfly valves are opening because I have the actuator hooked up to a vacuum source. Plus I have the little white canister which is supposed to actuate them at a certain psi."

Someone seems to have forgotten that once boost comes on, you don't have any vacuum.

This is usually how expensive, high-powered cars do things. Porsche, Audi, etc, and Ford racing sells a $2500 magnesium racing manifold for the mustangs that uses variable intake geometry.

And it's what's been stock on motorcyles since the Yamaha variable-intakes of the seventies. They're lovely devices when set up by the factory. The Mitsubishi Cyclone almost never is, because the JDM ECU that runs it isn't used here. That Porsche et al can get that kind of money for a manifold this side of LeMans speaks only to the desperation and gullibility of their customer base.

I think if done right, getting the benefit of short and long runners can be very good for power,

Yeah. If.

 

[goofynick6]

Well, I know what you mean. I've been dealing with these type of setups for 5-6 years now because my previous car was a Ford Probe GT with the Mazda 2.5 V6 with VRIS or variable resonance intake system; so I am familiar with the vacuum canister setup and plate actuators on manifolds.

Anyway, just because so many people give this a bad rap and because it usually is setup wrong makes me want to do it even more; that and I love lowend torque and it seems like it would be pretty easy to get it to work right.

Anyway, just my 2 cents.

Nick

 

[Royalty]

so insead of dorring it would anyone care to explain in detail (pitrues too) how to install it correctly

 

[Defiant]

so insead of dorring it would anyone care to explain in detail (pitrues too) how to install it correctly

Well, you could look in the Tech Section, I guess

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109763

Or if truly desperate, search:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105746

 

[Royalty]

Well, you could look in the Tech Section, I guess

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109763

Or if truly desperate, search:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105746

BRILLIANT!

 

[Bostedquest]

There are a couple of ways to tell. The Cyclone intake will be a two piece design versus the US one which is one piece.

Actually it's a 3 piece design...
air box
runners
2-1 head plate

 

[JohnnyC]

I should be having a JDM engine coming next week. If it does have the Cyclone mani, it won't work without a JDM ecu will it? So what effect will it have?

 

[Bostedquest]

I should be having a JDM engine coming next week. If it does have the Cyclone mani, it won't work without a JDM ecu will it? So what effect will it have?

read the thread please... I will refrain from other comments... just read the thread...
or at least read three posts up for gods sake...

 

[JohnnyC]

read the thread please... I will refrain from other comments... just read the thread...
or at least read three posts up for gods sake...

I'm not asking how to make it work, I'm asking what effects it will have in term of flow since it WONT be working as it is designed to.

 

[gixrman]

Well the way its setup if the buuterflys (short runner valves) won't open and then your topend will suffer.