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Please help with Cyclone

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Just put your stock manifold on it, much better anyways. Cyclone mani is a piece of crap.
 
ryanman said:
Just put your stock manifold on it, much better anyways. Cyclone mani is a piece of crap.

Agreed. But if you must have it for the logo on top, you need a JDM 90 ecu to make it work properly.
 
silverbulletAWD said:
I'm just not sure if I agree w/ that. I was running high 11's last fall w/ a race weight of 3120lbs. I've never dyno'd it so I can't say for sure but I think it was making around 370-400whp.
Well if your profile is correct and you have a 1G the stock motor is rated to withstand about 450 fly wheel. Also if your making that much to the wheel, but we don't know for sure, that is significant stress on the motor. I more or less am talking around the lines of safe and not pushing the stress on the motor.
 
Mighty Mouse said:
:confused: why is it a peice of crap?
It's not. And in Japan, where you spend a lot more of your time under 35 than over, it's good to do something to an engine to make it give a bit more torque. And their ECUs are set up to manipulate the butterflies in a way that makes the most sense.

We don't drive like that here. We have places to go. Hondas came over here with a lot of their native characteristics, that's why they feel so damned strong in town- they keep a lot of the engine's allotment of torque down low, where you do slow driving.

Yes, you may be able to fiddle-dee-dick around with a damned Cyclone enough that you get that extra 10-ft-lbs of torque out of it before the turbo spools up enough to start helping out our pathetically-low compresson ratio, but please read the posts about it and take the word of those dozens who've said good riddance to that shit once they've gone back to a stock U.S.-market manifold.

No more spoon-feeding. For the rest of it, you're on your own.
 
A new way of making a :dsm: JDM Cyclone intake Manifold functionable... Check it out... at GalantVR-4.org

You've gota register to read the thread, it's not my information to share. So I'm not going to copy/paste-it and add pics without permission. Believe me it's well worth it...
 
I beleive there are a few previously posted ways to do this but i didnt search... but your like is definitley access denied like said aboive... try your link b4 posting!
 
Steve Hebert said:
Link works for me..
Willing to bet you are a member. ;)

Is this an ECU mod, vacuum mod, or what?

Details would be nice.
 
He has basicaly controlled the ECU code for the Purge, Boost Control, Fuel Pressure, and EGR solenoids, so he now has complete control over any one of them.:D It will be almost just like the stock JDM ECU w/ a controlled boost activation point. You still need a FPR or EGR, his burned Eprom Chip, and the Cyclone vacuum canister. I think this eliminates the Hobb's switch. And thus makes it more accurate and precise when opening up the secondaries. There is still much work to be done on finetuneing the activation point and needs more DYNO results. But it is deffinetly a huge-step 'but not the end of the game'.

And yes, Steve Hebert is a member... :p
 

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LandoAWD said:
Willing to bet you are a member. ;)

Is this an ECU mod, vacuum mod, or what?

Details would be nice.

Keydiver has been busy playing with the ECU code to control the various solenoids and recoding for different uses. Controlling the Cyclone butterflys on a standard ECU is just one application.

Steve
 
i just bought a cyclone intake manifold and just found out that it was a bi*** to get it running and that it was not worth it. now im going to sell it but what should i get in its place? should i go with a ported 1g or go aftermarket? im new to this so bear with me.
 
Misinformed people....the numbers aren't officially out yet but a 2g head with 1g intake and tb will flow more air.
You're probably thinking WTF??
Shape of the ports, velocity. The air in the 2g head has more of a straight shot, it doesn't go over a hump like the 1g head. Stock v. stock, 1g wins.

Trust me, stick with you're 2g head and get it ported.

Do a search for "1g head numbers long" Hope you like numbers :p
 
It all depends on what you're planning on doing in the future. Overall a sheetmetal intake manifold would flow the best. However not a lot of people have 700-900 bucks to spend on a magnus or a bj's. Straightline Specialties told me that the stock 1g manifold severly restricts flow after about 6000-6500 rpms. JM Fabrications makes a really nice manifold and Tort uses it on his 93 Monster. Remember always try to do it right the first time. :thumb:
 
so if i go with a sheet metal manifold will it throw check engine codes at me and will it run like normal or will it idle funny.

and if i dont do that i should port my 2g and keep the ported 1g tb.

thanks for the help
 
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