ryanman
15+ Year Contributor
- 333
- 3
- Oct 17, 2003
-
Kodiak,
Alaska
Just put your stock manifold on it, much better anyways. Cyclone mani is a piece of crap.
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ryanman said:Just put your stock manifold on it, much better anyways. Cyclone mani is a piece of crap.
Well if your profile is correct and you have a 1G the stock motor is rated to withstand about 450 fly wheel. Also if your making that much to the wheel, but we don't know for sure, that is significant stress on the motor. I more or less am talking around the lines of safe and not pushing the stress on the motor.silverbulletAWD said:I'm just not sure if I agree w/ that. I was running high 11's last fall w/ a race weight of 3120lbs. I've never dyno'd it so I can't say for sure but I think it was making around 370-400whp.
Try over 550 at the wheels.97TSIAWD said:Well if your profile is correct and you have a 1G the stock motor is rated to withstand about 450 fly wheel.
why is it a peice of crap?It's not. And in Japan, where you spend a lot more of your time under 35 than over, it's good to do something to an engine to make it give a bit more torque. And their ECUs are set up to manipulate the butterflies in a way that makes the most sense.Mighty Mouse said:why is it a peice of crap?
JDM Cyclone intake Manifold functionable... Check it out... at GalantVR-4.org
Willing to bet you are a member.Steve Hebert said:Link works for me..

It will be almost just like the stock JDM ECU w/ a controlled boost activation point. You still need a FPR or EGR, his burned Eprom Chip, and the Cyclone vacuum canister. I think this eliminates the Hobb's switch. And thus makes it more accurate and precise when opening up the secondaries. There is still much work to be done on finetuneing the activation point and needs more DYNO results. But it is deffinetly a huge-step 'but not the end of the game'.
LandoAWD said:Willing to bet you are a member.
Is this an ECU mod, vacuum mod, or what?
Details would be nice.
