Please help with Cyclone

gixrman · Jan 26, 2005

kgtalon95 said:
Misinformed people....

Not misinformed, just stating from a bolt on point.....square pegs don't fit in round holes.

I don't think he wants to remove his head to port match it to the 1g intake. A 1g intake that has been extrude honed, smoothed out is hard to beat unless hes going all out.

joeracer321 · Jan 26, 2005

From what I have seen, I would stick with the 1g intake and a 2g head. It is true that the sheet metal intakes do flow more up top. But you lose a good amount of midrange power. For a street car, I would rather have the midrange power and since I do not rev past 7500 rpm the benifits of an aftermarket intake would not even be used. So all in all it really depends on the purpose of the car.

Pizzy · Jan 26, 2005

If it helps, I have a ported 2g manifold, 1g TB, and ported 2g TBE that I'll let go. It's basically all the work done in the RRE swap article. All you need to do is bolt it all in and use your 2gTPS...that's it. PM me and we'll chat. :thumb:

98spyderboost · Jan 26, 2005

kgtalon95 said:
Misinformed people....the numbers aren't officially out yet but a 2g head with 1g intake and tb will flow more air.
You're probably thinking WTF??
Shape of the ports, velocity. The air in the 2g head has more of a straight shot, it doesn't go over a hump like the 1g head. Stock v. stock, 1g wins.

Trust me, stick with you're 2g head and get it ported.

Do a search for "1g head numbers long" Hope you like numbers

True but there are alot of ppl on this forum that say that hoggin out a 2g head to fit the 1g intake will effectively eliminate the gains of having better valve angle and such.

Pizzy · Jan 26, 2005

Just a side not but isn't it also a PITA to mount the coil using a 1g manifold?

98spyderboost · Jan 26, 2005

Pizzy said:
Just a side not but isn't it also a PITA to mount the coil using a 1g manifold?

eh, just relocate. That's what I see most ppl do.

kgtalon95 · Jan 26, 2005

"Flow numbers mean jack next to velocity. Dyno them then tell us which is better."

You're right, I wish someone would dyno both. Yes you're right velocity is the key, that's why I said keep the 2g head, better velocity.

Now, whatever you choose, give yourself room to grow. If you seriuosly think it will stay a DD then there is no need for a SMIM, loose to much mid-range power. I mean seriously, where are you going to be going 100+mph daily. If you know you're dsm wants more than daily, give yourself room and go with SMIM. Do it right the first time :thumb:

FinestEclipse · Jan 26, 2005

I have a 2g and i want to get the 1g throttle body if i get the cyclone intake manifold does it work better or should i keep mah stock 2g intake manifold with the 1g throttle body

Defiant · Jan 27, 2005

Talon4ever · Feb 8, 2005

Heres the story. I had a 1993 Talon AWD and I was running 12.9 on the 14b. I finally got a EVO 3 16G, SlowBoy Racing exhaust manifold and Evo 3 O2 housing put on.All ported. But before I got to run it at the track, the headgasket blew. Instead of fixing the 7 Bolt, I purchased a 1990 Talon AWD from my father bone stock. The only difference was that he had put a Cyclone intake just for show, since it wasn't going to be used for racing. So me and my dad switched all my parts from my other car to this car all in one day, including turbo, exhaust, suspension intercooler and so on. However, I kept the cyclone manifold on to see exactly the differnce between the regular. From my driving experience here is what I can tell. And these are with the exact same parts and same boost levels. And this is with the runners hooked up and the white canister connecte.

Pros:
Definitely more low end torque and power
Faster spool up

Cons:
Significantly less Top-end power

This manifold is great for a daily driver with a 14b or 16G. There is so much usable low-end torque which makes driving through the streets fun and easy. It also spools the turbo very quickly. I can get 15 psi at 2900rpms. However, you can tell that above 4000 rpms the motor struggles to reach redline. With the US manifold the motor would redline with no problem, but the cyclone has some trouble. I want to keep the manifold on but since I plan to race it, I will soon be changing back to the USDM. I miss the top-end power that I get with the US one. I would say that it is an ok manifold and I would definitely tell people to put it on their daily drivers. I makes the car fun to drive around the city. Plus, it looks great under the hood.

I know people have probably stated these facts before but I wanted to experience it for myself because that is the only way you learn, so please don't flame me. Plus it didn't cost me time or money because it was already on the car. Hope this helps

90AWDTalon · Feb 8, 2005

Check out www.dsmchips.com they have a chip that makes the cyclone manifold usable.

Stapl3 · Feb 9, 2005

Up top, the manifold is exactly the same as a US 1g manifold.

Source: NABR

Talon4ever · Feb 9, 2005

Can you post a link that shows they are the same because everyone always said that they don't flow as much on the top end and I personally felt the difference.

Echo5Zulu · Feb 9, 2005

Good review. Thank you for the personal opinion and feel to the part. I was thinking about one of those mani's but now Im building my own.

Stapl3 · Feb 9, 2005

Talon4ever said:
Can you post a link that shows they are the same because everyone always said that they don't flow as much on the top end and I personally felt the difference.

Nope, don't want to get banned.

You'll have to sign up.

Defiant · Feb 9, 2005

Talon4ever said:
Can you post a link that shows they are the same because everyone always said that they don't flow as much on the top end and I personally felt the difference.

I wonder if you're not getting the butterflies all the way open. As above, the big difference should be at low-revs like you say, but after the "secondaries" open, you should be at full-flow.

StyleElements · Feb 9, 2005

i have an extra cyclone manifold if anyone wants to buy it

98GSX_MTX · Feb 10, 2005

You know....you can use MSD rpm window switches and vacuum soliniods to control those gates.

Total cost would be about $200 and it would be completely configurable.
You also wouldn't lose any money because used switches sell at nearly the same price as new.

TargeT · Feb 10, 2005

Defiant said:
I wonder if you're not getting the butterflies all the way open. As above, the big difference should be at low-revs like you say, but after the "secondaries" open, you should be at full-flow.

I Guarenty this is the case..

Cyclone uses butterfly plate that closes off the short runners for low boost and closes off the long runners then opens the short for "high end"

I had mine set up with a hobs switch to open the short runners at about 10 PSI

but it was such a pain in the a$$ it wont be going on my new car

goofynick6 · Feb 10, 2005

TargeT said:
I Guarenty this is the case..

Cyclone uses butterfly plate that closes off the short runners for low boost and closes off the long runners then opens the short for "high end"

I had mine set up with a hobs switch to open the short runners at about 10 PSI

but it was such a pain in the a$$ it wont be going on my new car

Why was it a pain in the ass? I'm thinking of using one to get faster spool, but still have the topend for 400whp.

Nick

Royalty · Feb 10, 2005

hey nick u care to share how u made this sucka work, ive got one sitting in my garage

Talon4ever · Feb 10, 2005

I know for a fact that the butterfly valves are opening because I have the actuator hooked up to a vacuum source. Plus I have the little white canister which is supposed to actuate them at a certain psi.

Yes even though they do open up for top end power you can visually see the difference in runner size. If you look through the plenum of the USDM intake you see very large almost squareish runner openings. The JDM intake has smaller circle openings. The butterfly vavles are a restriction to the airflow if you think about it since they are taking up space in the runners.

TargeT · Feb 10, 2005

Talon4ever said:
I know for a fact that the butterfly valves are opening because I have the actuator hooked up to a vacuum source. Plus I have the little white canister which is supposed to actuate them at a certain psi.

Yes even though they do open up for top end power you can visually see the difference in runner size. If you look through the plenum of the USDM intake you see very large almost squareish runner openings. The JDM intake has smaller circle openings. The butterfly vavles are a restriction to the airflow if you think about it since they are taking up space in the runners.

the little white canister is just a vacume resivor, it holds a certain amount of vacume in reserve for when the butterflys open/close to smooth out the action.. think of it as a buffer

unless you have a hobs switch or other typeof silinoid hooked up your runners are opening too soon & you could have it set up better..

Stapl3 · Feb 11, 2005

98GSX_MTX said:
You know....you can use MSD rpm window switches and vacuum soliniods to control those gates.

Total cost would be about $200 and it would be completely configurable.
You also wouldn't lose any money because used switches sell at nearly the same price as new.

Or you could modify a 50 dollar shift light.

Member of NABR used DSMLink to have his rpm and tps controlled. From what I've gathered this is better than stock because stock is controlled just rpm. Pretty cool.

Defiant · Feb 11, 2005

Talon4ever said:
I know for a fact that the butterfly valves are opening because I have the actuator hooked up to a vacuum source. Plus I have the little white canister which is supposed to actuate them at a certain psi.

But can you assure they're opening all the way?

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Please help with Cyclone

gixrman

joeracer321

Pizzy

98spyderboost

Pizzy

98spyderboost

kgtalon95

FinestEclipse

Defiant

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