Planning a fresh build. I need help

[boost97gst]

Will be switching to awd automatic. Staying 2.0 please dont suggest a stroker, ive looked into it and im opposed. I want to stay 2.0 and rev higher.

Heres my IDEAS, please correct or make suggestions.
NOTE: Entire longblock and all parts in my profile have ~4500 miles

BOTTOM END:
Current block is fine, might have to go 86mm bore but thats ok for a NON stroked block
Would like to keep stock crank. Maybe new acl rod/main
Keeping Eagle rods, no need to replace(that i know of yet)
Getting rid of Mahle and wanting to go with Wiseco HD 10.5:1(running e85 all the time)
Need a BSE, no biggie there. But id like to keep front bs in and just cut belt. Ive heard this stops the high oil pressure problem so many complain of. Tell me if im off here
All new timing components obviously, keeping water and oil pump though, no need to replace after such a low amount of miles unless machinist says pump gears worn

HEAD
Big dilemmas here....
Keep Crower(NOT BC) 272s OR send them to delta and for 140 they will make them K272s, they cannot and will not do this on a stock cam they need my crowers to do this.
I have bc springs,retainers etc but stock valves
Looking at Supertech Stainless valves std size, dupertech dual springs and all supertech accessories to match. *** This is a BIG question, what valves/cams**
Adj cam gears, a must to dial in cams this time properly
Port match 2g IM and head, polish head get rid of casting flaws etc, exhaust same treatment.
ERL mani, MVS wg

TURBO
Bullseye/BW s364ett or fp 3786hta.
fuel: e85, wal 450, 6an feed/return or stock return.
fic 2150s
Will add inline pump if needed(doubtful)

Im looking for 650 to the wheels.
IPT built trans, stock restalled converter.


This is a weekend car or a car i drive to the gym in. Will def see a couple trips to the track every year. No more than 5k miles per year max.

Ive got everything else figured out. My big thing is the head and my choice of compression for the wisecos. I could reuse my mahles no problem.

I know the turbos are big, and i dont care about lag. A restalled converter will help a TON.

Also, a forced four plus box to run full line pressure.

If you made it through this jumble and can recommend/correct things, i would greatly appreciate it. i do my best to help others but this is a very specific build that i want nailed the first time. I finally have a quality machinist i can trust.
The head work will be offered first to bogussvo (hopefully he will build it)

Aaaaaaaaand im spent. Thanks

 

[92AWDHX40]

If he is possibly building it I would ask him whats best for that setup with you considering your piston choice.

 

[BogusSVO]

First, loose the ST valve train, there are good quality parts out there for less.

If you go Kelford clones from Delta, yes you will need better springs, A good beehive should get the nod.

I am building a head now that is getting the K272 cams , and GSC 5041 kit were the springs selected.

When porting is going to be done, and new valves are going in, get the +1mm os valves and go bronze guides at the same time.

With the E85 fuel, and new pistons a strong option, I tend to follow JAMs thought and go 10-10.5:1 CR

Just balance the pistons, and check the balance on the rods.

Gap the rings accordingly to boost and abuse.

If you move to Wiseco from Mahle, The block stands a good chance of needing a hone so the wiseco's will have the PTW they like.

 

[boost97gst]

Any suggestions as to what other brands of valves i should look in to? I dont want to blow a ton on it if i dont have to ya know? So if i can get the same quality for less then def open to suggestions. 1mm os? Sounds good. I was thinking of that too but hadnt come across enough evidence that it actually increased flow that much.

 

[jayson427]

95-99 Eclipse Talon Turbo 4g63 PEP P.E.P. Oversized Valves Valve Set 2g +1mm - Miller Import Parts

Just seen these on Google thought I would post it up for you if they are still for sale. Pep is a good valve too.

 

[boost97gst]

Thanks jayson

Now the 3786 is an absolute monster of a turbo. The idea is i want to go overboard with the turbo but still stay t3. I should be able to achieve(properly set up head,timing, fuel) 70lbs/min with less than 30psi. The lag will be there but ive heard these HTAs are quick spoolers for their size. I believe that turbo is probably around an 85lb unit. The bw s364 is probably a slight bit less but i think id get a bit more lag from it. Negligible with an auto though.

Any thoughts on my turbo/high CR pistons? I know thats a tricky one as well, variables a plenty. fwiw, the exhaust will be dumped no further than 5 ft. Full 3" vband, dumped wg as well. Noisy sumbitch for sure!