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Piston Rings :(

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SleepingTsi94

15+ Year Contributor
261
0
Apr 24, 2006
Corn, Iowa
Well I did a compression check today and i got 120 - 120 - 90 - 150. Sad to see. Now I think its the piston rings I did a wet test and it jumped from 90 to 120. So I was wondering how hard of a task is it to change these. And what am I looking at cost wise. Also maybe what kind of price I might expect from a shop. And my last question is, when doing this should all the bearings be replaced?
 
I would replace as much as possible. The engine is going to have to be taken out and rebuilt. The cost is going to vary greatly depending on how much work you do yourself.
 
You have to either (1. Take out the engine (much easier to work outside the car) or (2. Drop the crossmember, oil pan, remove each rod from the crank and take out the pistons that way. Each time you remove the crank or rods you should replace the bearings. I prefer taking the engine out as you have much more room to work with. Also while the engine is out i'd replace the headgasket, timing belt, remove the balance shafts, and replace the waterpump and timing tensioner. Also I'd either measure each bore to see if it needs boring (due to excess in tolerances) or take it to a shop and have them measure it. If it needs to be bored new pistons are needed. If boring is not needed, then just hone the cylinders out and install new rings. Make sure each piston goes back in its respecting cylinder (#1 in #1 cylinder, #2 in #2 cylinder, etc.) Costwise, it aint gonna be a cheap job, looking at about $400-$600 just for bottom end rebuild, not including machine work and labor. Thats why this winter mine is coming out and I'm doing a complete rebuild, top to bottom. Just in parts for this i priced $1276, not including machine work. Hope this helps, and not discourages you, as a rebuild will last you a few years of fun with these cars.
Shawn
 
Its simple man, pull your head, drop oil pan push pistons out threw the top re hone, re ring, put all back together, I did it in 4 hours, but I agree if your already in there get all new bearings.
 
Well not that I don't know how to do it. Im debating on wheater its worth the effort or not. I bought the car for 2500, and since then I have replace the timing belt, took the balance shafts out, new differential fluids and seal, new waterpump, new valve cover gasket set. Afraid that if I do this whats to say I wont end up costing me more money not much later on. I have only had this car since may.
 
you can drop the oil pan corss member, and pull the head and re ring it then hone it but if you have the time and mone yi would take the engine out and rebuild it, or i have a rebuilt engine that came out of a 94 1g with some thigns done to it for 800 bucks with a clutch and flywheel LOL
 
What are some possible swaps that can be done. After looking for a motor and prices to have it rebuilt im getting to like 1000-4000 what are some good choice or best place to spend my money.
 
SleepingTsi94 said:
What are some possible swaps that can be done. After looking for a motor and prices to have it rebuilt im getting to like 1000-4000 what are some good choice or best place to spend my money.

Yeah you could do a jdm swap however for the price you can rebuild your motor. You can piece together your motor or buy a kit. Slowboy sells the topline kit for 500 i think and then all you have to do is get it machined and put it together. Recondition your rods and put some arp bolts in them. The price depends on the machine shop and how much you do, if you can assemble it, you will save a good amount of money. People will say topline is crap and maybe in their case it was, but most people don't speak from personal experience. There are many people on this forum that are using topline kits and boosting with an evo 3 23 psi everyday. Just take your time, get what you want, and then do it. A normal stock rebuild normally costs anywhere between 1000-1500. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213714 this website is a good place to get oem parts for cheap if you are looking for a oem gasket set for about 210 plus shipping. Good luck with whatever you do,
Luke:dsm:
 
Im in the process of rebuilding mine, im going with forged internals. you need to decide what you want to spend and what your future goals are, just for a bottom end it cost me 1240$, im pulling the motor. Also you will need new gaskets/belts oil pump and water pump usually along with H. tensioner and pulleys from Mitsu. Do it right once so you dont have to again.


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But is it worth it to put in the car. From the way I look at it now I can still get my money back out of it but with the new engine and all if i ever went to sell it would be a major loss on my part. And the chance that something else could happen again. And the head has already been replaced on the motor also.
 
Hmm...

How much is the car worth to you transportation/fun wise? If you got to put a lot of miles on it and/or had lots and lots of fun then maybe you should think about what all those miles and fun would be worth in a dollar amount.

IDK if that helps, just something I thought of.
 
Alright guys im not sure whats going on with this motor. I know I over heat at times. And I changed everything like water pump, thermo, timing belt and what not. So I think it might be a head gasket. But I have no sign of fluids mixing at all. I raced a wrx tonight and got him everytime from a rolling. I would think with the compression readings I got that he would surly take me. So whats a way to test whats going on here im clue less and am short on cash so less it cost to fix the better.
 
Well first off, I would do a leak down test. That should tell you wether the HG has failed or its ok. You stated above that you only got 90 psi in that cylinder, but once you added some oil and checked it again it shot up to 120....so that right there tells me that your rings are bad. It's up to you, you are the one spending the cash. Why would you want to spend the money on putting a new headgasket on and getting the same results as you are right now. If the engine has alot of miles on it, and you plan on having this car for a while, just dish out the dough right now and rebuild it and be worry free for a few years. But, like I said above, its entirely up to you, as it's your hard earned money, and your car.
 
It's up to you if you want to rebuild the 7 bolt or buy a 6 bolt. What I would do is tear down the block, send the block, rods and crank to a machine shop and have them measure everything to make sure its within tolerances before you buy this kit. If the block doesnt need to be bored out, then standard pistons will do. Also do this with the rods and crank, so you can get the right size bearings for the rebuild. That way there you can have everything you need for a complete, reliable rebuild. I would also recommend getting the Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit, and also buy a new oil pump, water pump, timing belt tensioner, pulleys, and also atleast regrind valves/seats and new valve stem seals. That way everything seals good and you wont have any problems later down the road. Yea, I know it sounds like alot of money, which it is, but trust me, i have looked into doing this myself, and its worth it if you want this engine to last. If you havent done this already, pick up either a Chiltons or Haynes manual, as these are like the bible for your car. I have 2, and keep the other as a spare, just in case. Hope this helps, and take my advice before you buy that kit, or you might run into problems down the road.
Good Luck
Shawn
 
Well I have a new waterpump, and timing belt kit and already did the balance shaft eliminator kit, and the head has been replaced earlier on the car. So that takes some off. Pretty much just need the bottom end. Where can I pick the oil pump up at for a resonable price. Im pretty sure im going to do the rebuild just want to get much info as possible.
 
get an OEM front cover from Mitsu...its gonna be expensive but the OEM is the only one known to last. It think i priced one out at $280, but i'll double check and get back to you.
 
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