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piston and rod choice for stroker?

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v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,822
279
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
i'm thinkin i'm gonna go ahead and go with one of slowboy's stroker kits. i had been planning on going with groden rods, ross pistons, and knife edged stroker crank from ffwd. but it'd cost a bit more and i'm kinda wanting to get my car up and running again during my lifetime. figured if i got a stroker kit i could do it sooner and for less (just that i wouldn't have aluminum rods but i'll still have a knife edged crank) if i got it from slowboy instead.

so have a couple of questions for you guys about my choice of kit to buy.

rods...i want something light. i was thinkin that if i'm not getting aluminum rods, that i'd just get eagles or scats or something. i mean i hear plenty of guys running big numbers with them anyway, so why get something more expensive if they'll hold up just fine. i know everyone says eagle, eagle, eagle, but i've heard good things about scat as well. or should i go with some other rod entirely?

pistons...ross or wiseco? ross is 9.0:1 versus wiseco's 8.8:1. i don't wanna fight a lot of knock if the compression is really high. would the 2 tenths make that much of a difference? go with ross maybe? wiseco cause of the lower compression? the price of the kit wouldn't differ either way.

thanks for anyone's insite. i'll be paying off the stroker kit next month so i have a lil while to decide.
 
First you will need to determine what your goal is, and your budget. Then people will be able to direct you in a way that will best meet both.

The dish volume on the pistons is only one of the factors that will determine what the final compression ration will be.

Lightweight rods are good, but how light do you think you need to go? Lightweight and strong equals more dollars.
 
Big Woo said:
First you will need to determine what your goal is, and your budget. Then people will be able to direct you in a way that will best meet both.

The dish volume on the pistons is only one of the factors that will determine what the final compression ration will be.

Lightweight rods are good, but how light do you think you need to go? Lightweight and strong equals more dollars.

as far as budget, well, that just depends on how long i want my car to be down for really. but ultimately, if i could be hitting 10's in the 1/4 i'd be just fine and dandy with that.

i'm choosing wiseco over the ross.

still debating on the rod choice. hmmm....
 
v8s_are_slow said:
as far as budget, well, that just depends on how long i want my car to be down for really. but ultimately, if i could be hitting 10's in the 1/4 i'd be just fine and dandy with that.

i'm choosing wiseco over the ross.

still debating on the rod choice. hmmm....


I went with the 1g big rods. and I run a fpred aroudn 20 psi daily and clsoe to 30 on race gas and the rods hold up jsut fine.
 
alright well i went with the wiseco pistons and the scat rods. sure they'll do me good. next month i'll get the 4G64 crank and get it knife edged and balanced. can't wait to get the dang car running again. :D
 
well we called ross before we ordered our ross bend. pistons, and they said that they have not had 1 broken piston yet (we are working on that :D), and then we went with a manley rod setup, which are also some of the nicest rods out there (we heard that we were the first customers to order that setup) and it works like a charm, but be sure to tell them x100 what you want, since some don't listen (thats why we had to pay $180 restocking fee... thx) and let them recheck the crank because we got a bend ####in crank :( it was hell, just a few slowboy tips (love) it is awsome turning the engine over and actually hearing that beast idle

anyways thats just my .02

later

tomeek
 
Wiseco....

Less weight.. More consistent piston weight.. Easier to balance. Offset wrist pins to eliminate cold slap.
 
well i decided to go with wisco cause it was a lower compression piston and i wanna do my best to keep from getting knock while still retaining power. went with the scat rods cause i know they're running about neck and neck and i know people are laying down good numbers with the eagle rods. but i've heard that the machining on the scat rods is better and the weight distribution from one end of the rod to the other end is more consitant than the eagles. hope i've made a good choice.

one question about strokers though for you that have them. is the exhaust note deeper cause of the extra displacement? i have an atr exhaust and it's already pretty deep with the 2.0. i can just imagine it being any deeper. just wondering.
 
it'll be deeper : D,

and our piston compression is 7.5:1

and isn't the wiseco 8.8:1 (stated at the sbr 88-92 4g63/4g64 crank)


wiseco
ross
 
Tomeek said:
it'll be deeper : D,

and our piston compression is 7.5:1

and isn't the wiseco 8.8:1 (stated at the sbr 88-92 4g63/4g64 crank)


wiseco
ross

well crap. i had been planning on ordering from ffwd originally and was told the ratio on the ross pistons were 9.0:1. called and spoke to the guys at slowboy as well and was told that yes, the compression would be lower with the wiseco. maybe those are a different "ross" piston :confused:

"You can do ross's for the same price sir. Ross's however are 9.0:1, higher than a wiseco."

that's what i was e-mailed anyway. it's okay though. i didn't wanna go THAT low anyway. somewhere in the middle. i saw one guy (i think it was a guy here on tuners. can't remember) that was running 10.0:1. that'd be a bit much for me i think.
 
well sbr confuses you alot (sorry to say buts its true) well we would have never gone with a higher compression, and if you talk to ross directly you should be better of :/ sorry for you, but i bet the wiseco are good too :D so gl with that setup

even though we have the low compression, we did 200hp at about 5-7 psi of boos @ 20-30% throttle on the dyno to break it in, so not even fully tuned yet soo powerfull with low settings
and this Wednesday I'll finally hook up a data logger, to see the know situation :)

till then thomas
 
v8s_are_slow said:
well crap. i had been planning on ordering from ffwd originally and was told the ratio on the ross pistons were 9.0:1. called and spoke to the guys at slowboy as well and was told that yes, the compression would be lower with the wiseco. maybe those are a different "ross" piston :confused:

"You can do ross's for the same price sir. Ross's however are 9.0:1, higher than a wiseco."

that's what i was e-mailed anyway. it's okay though. i didn't wanna go THAT low anyway. somewhere in the middle. i saw one guy (i think it was a guy here on tuners. can't remember) that was running 10.0:1. that'd be a bit much for me i think.

Not sure who you may have talked to here, maybe the FNG? LOL

There are basically 2 pistons sets we use and sell for a stroker motor. The most common is the Wiseco 8.8:1 compression. Great piston, nice and light, used in 75% of our 2.3 shortblocks.

The second is our custom Ross piston. It USED to be 7.5:1 compression, bandidized, and ready for big boost and nitrous. We have a few of those left, but have moved to a 8.5:1 piston, same coating, same strength.

Feel free to email or call if you have any other questions!

Nate
SBR
 
I went with FFwd and got their stroker kit. It was the butchered and cryo treated crank with groden aluminum rods. The pistons are Ross 8:8:1 with the SOB and ceramic coating. I also got all the clevite rod and main bearings. Darren at FFwd worked with me and gave it to me for less then $2400 shipped. For this caliber of a stroker kit I feel like it was a descent price. I also want to mention that any question I have run into Darren has helped me. Don't know if you will get this kind of tech support from SBR. Just my .02
 
Its a good race setup but I wanted to build a truely streetable long running car..

The aluminum rods have to short of service intervals....
 
According to Darren and Groden the aluminum rods they sell are just as "streetable" as any other rod. They said that the rods are made out of a different alloy than other aluminum rods and that they won't have the problem associated with aluminum rods.
I don't know if this is true, but thats what they claim. FFWD has 8.5:1 Ross pistons.
 

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I have wiseco pistons along with eagle rods and almost 1000 miles on the setup! no slap and I am happy so far :) Those Grodens look huge is there any chance of hitting a water jacket when clearencing? Time will tell on the longevity of my setup! I am personally a fan of tons of boost on low compression! I would have went lower on my setup but nobody had the pistons I wanted on the shelf and I wanted my beater back :) quick! :dsm:
 
GVR4592 said:
According to Darren and Groden the aluminum rods they sell are just as "streetable" as any other rod. They said that the rods are made out of a different alloy than other aluminum rods and that they won't have the problem associated with aluminum rods.
I don't know if this is true, but thats what they claim. FFWD has 8.5:1 Ross pistons.
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/rods.shtml


Darren said:
. I’m here to tell you that these particular rods can take gobs of abuse. More abuse than the spirited street guy could ever throw at them. The only thing you have to bear in mind is that with the expansion rate of aluminum, the rod bolts take a beating so eventually, the bolts will have to be replaced sooner than in a steel rod. The rods don’t stretch…the bolts do...past their yield...but over time. That’s the nature of the beast. This is true of all alum rods. But at that level of performance, chances are, you’ll have your motor broken apart regardless for a "re-freshening" at some point in time. Possibly every season for the folks really pushing the envelop. You can’t be putting out mountains of HP and never pop your hood.

I would look at what groden and other engine builders have to say in addition to this.... multiple opinions..

Since rod bolts have to be changed the rod will also have to be resized....

The fact is it will have to be serviced sooner than a 4340 steel rod....
 
Aluminum ALWAYS will fail when under any kind of oscillating load. There is no endurance limit for aluminum. Now that does not mean you cant make them last a very very long time though. The normal endurance limit people use for aluminum is around 8 million cycles I believe. Other metals like steel, titanium etc do have endurance limits at which when operating less than it, will theoretically, last forever.

Now if those Groden aluminum rods are made out of something other than aluminum such as some type of alloy then its quite possible there is an endurance limit at which they could last forever just as a steel rod could.

If that is true, than Id say those Groden rods would be quite nice to have.
 
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