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Permatrex Copper spray on Cometic MLS About to put everything together... should I us

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GSTurbo1

10+ Year Contributor
610
1
May 2, 2012
Pickens, SC, South Carolina
Ok guys so, I just about have everything ready to go... maybe a day or two before I start reassembly. Just waiting on rod bearings to come in, so anyways during my assemble would you guys recommend spraying the Permatrex copper spray on the gasket? I really want it to seal perfect and last for as long as possible on 15+psi.

P.S. I got my head resurfaced, checked for warpage and all that good stuff.
 
"Why does Cometic recommend MLS gaskets to be installed dry?

Cometic Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets go on dry because they are coated with a sealant. Each MLS head gasket is coated with a .001" thick Viton rubber that is bonded to the outer stainless steel layers. Adding an additional sealer can hinder the performance of an MLS head gasket."

direct from cometic website. :thumb:
 
I have sprayed all of my MLS gaskets and have yet to have a HG fail. Its personal choice whether you want to or not. Also if you would have searched there was a thread about this same thing 2 weeks ago.
 
I have sprayed all of my MLS gaskets and have yet to have a HG fail. Its personal choice whether you want to or not. Also if you would have searched there was a thread about this same thing 2 weeks ago.

I agree. Last engine build I sprayed my Cometic MLS with copper spray. It's held 30psi till this day with no signs of letting go and it has about 25k on that engine. New engine I am building for another car will get the same. It seems to work just fine.
 
Right, you weren't supposed to get it.

I commented about one company's crappy radiator quality (a supporting vendor) and got a finger wag :rolleyes:

In other words you can't call a piece of shit, a piece of shit if they blow the Tuners cawk.
 
Sebba,,,,, Why is Cometic Gaskets a Shitty product???

Please inform us....


If the head and block are correctly prepped, and the manufactures directions followed. Thre shiuld not be an issue.

Keep in mind, a blown HG is NOT the cause of a proble, but the result of a problem.

If A Head has been belt surfaced, and the block ground shiney with a rol-loc.... No head gasket stands much of a chance of lasting.
 
They're notorious for having sealing issues. Every decent, reputable shop I know will not use a commetic.

I myself had a blown one after 15k.
 
Bogus do you have any more info on this topic? You seem to be the go to guy for info around engine building. I would like to know more on this but all you can ever find is people saying they have used copper spray with no issues and then others blaming the copper spray. Then you have people who haven't used it and call name brand parts crap when they crap out. There seems to be no testing or proven data around copper spray vs no copper spray.
 
They're notorious for having sealing issues. Every decent, reputable shop I know will not use a commetic.

I myself had a blown one after 15k.

As stated, if you machine both surfaces well than there will be no problem with them whatsoever. I have installed plenty of them with no problems.
 
Should of went with the OEM Mopar MLS but you will be fine, All in the prep work and if the head is flat. I am using copper spray on my Mopar gasket when it gets here thurs. I know alot of others who use it also.
 
its added insurance . i sprayed my mitsu steel head gasket and its still holding fine with arp studs running 27 psi.
 
People, why do you think metal head gaskets have smoothness requirements for the block and head? So you don't need a coating on the gasket. That coating they add just ends up weakening the seal in reality, and is just there so they can always weasel their way out of liability and blame the machine work. Using copper spray is just asking for trouble. A head gasket is just a giant crush washer. You don't use any liquids on that, do you?
 
I have put copper paste (yeah, paste, not a spray) on my resurfaced head, block and BNIB Cometic MLS. I just have missed the text saying that it should be clean in the cometic brochure. I risked and So far - around 1.5-2K miles I haven't had any leaks.

So do not spray it if you haven't yet. If you have sprayed it - just put it there and cross your fingers. As I see with most of us it worked...
 
Install this gasket dry, as per the instructions or you'll probably end up with some issues.

I have a cometic on my car; it was installed dry and both surfaces were prepped. It's been working great so far; car has around 9000 miles on it since the rebuild.

My boyfriend's Dodge Daytona has been running a cometic for years with zero issues. It's a 2.4L Chrysler engine running around 30psi and in the 10-sec 1/4 mile time range. He also installed it dry on properly prepped surfaces.
 
This is such a hot topic to use or not to use is the question....

We will assume that the head and block surfaces are finished for a MLS gasket, this means a good CBN?PCD milling machine was used (Perfered equipment)
Or at a min a good wet segment stone surfacer on a slow cut setting with fine stones.

If a rotory broach such as a Block master 85a or a Van norman 570 was used on either surface, I personally feel the surface finish will be too rough to even use a MLS gasket.
But could use a composite gasket.

If a belt surfacer was used..... Just start over......


On a new factory coated MLS gasket, I would personaly not use it

On a New NON factory coated gasket, I would concider using it

If the gasket is on its 2nd or third use, the gasket will need to be stripped of all old factory coating, then copper coated.

With how little distortion a MLS gasket will take up, the applacation of the copper spray need to be as even as possiable.

Not enough in one area, and too much on another area can and will change the clamp force the gasket sees.

A can that spits and sputters when you spray the gasket will give an uneven coating.
So the spray pattern out the can is just as importaint as the gasket surface finish.
 
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