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Overboosting on stock fuel system (no control of boost pressure).

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yeti-gvr4

10+ Year Contributor
422
2
Dec 23, 2010
san diego, California
So after fixing all the boost leaks (still not all of them the jpipe, idle adjustment screw. And probably the throttle body)

Anyways took it for a quik spin around the block a few times (after letting it warm)
I was hitting 30+ lbs of boost and then slamming I would boost for about 5 seconds and then hit what I think to be fuel cut.

Could the minor leaks be causing the overboost?

The car still stalls at stop with no throttle it has symptoms of the "Hot start"(where the idle is as low as possible enough To start shaking shit)

I had the link to it does anybody know which web page I'm talking about.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looking at your profile, you don't have any fuel mods listed. Do you have any fuel mods done?

Just asking as I am trying to figure out if whatever you are using to measure your boost is accurate or not. Also if you have leaks, thats would be where pressure is lost. Therefor boost leaks, leak air and would keep you from boosting properly.
 
If you do not have any fuel mods and a way to tune then why are you even letting your turbo build anything over 15psi of pressure? That's asking for a blown motor. Do a boost leak test and fix any leaks you are experiencing. Also if you it's not connected, make sure to have your BOV recirculated back to the intake unless you are on a GM MAF in blow through or are running speed density.
 
If you do not have any fuel mods and a way to tune then why are you even letting your turbo build anything over 15psi of pressure? That's asking for a blown motor. Do a boost leak test and fix any leaks you are experiencing. Also if you it's not connected, make sure to have your BOV recirculated back to the intake unless you are on a GM MAF in blow through or are running speed density.

I took it around the block and didn't expect 30+lbs after seeing barely 5lbs
Before the blt
I'm gonna get another vacuum line and connect the wastegate directely to the turbo outlet pipe.
If I still overboost that's a bad WG actuater correct?.

And I haven't adjusted the levels of boost at all it should be running stock off the BCS.

No fuel mods done or tuning devices
 
It's most likely a faulty wastegate. Might want to look into some fuel and tuning mods before you floor it again. Im surprised the car isn't blown yet.
 
If I still overboost that's a bad WG actuater correct?
Its a bad motor if you keep doing that crap with no fuel mods.

-Hows the vacuum line connected to your wga now?
-What mods do you have done to the exhaust section i.e. bigger o2, no cat, etc?

:dsm:
 
wow thats a LOT of boost for no fuel mods...that is if you are in fact running that much..any chance you could have a faulty gauge??

and btw i saw on your profile you have a "MHI super 16g"...never heard of a super 16g...what is it??
 
Check you line going to your wastegate, it is most likely split somewhere, and if the are no cracks or splits then yes faulty wastegate, as stated, you should not be boosting over 15psi with no fuel mods, a few seconds of fun is going to be expensive...
 
Make sure you are not running lean. My buddy thought that he was hitting fuel cut because his wideband said he was running 10.3 but he was really running stupid lean and lifted the head. At least blew the gasket.
 
Let me get this straight- upgraded turbo, 30psi, stock fuel system, and you're wondering why you're getting fuel cut? :ohdamn:

Seriously man, you need held back a year.

haha come on don't flame the guy, he said he's not TRYING to boost that much. I'm sure thats why he said overboost?

please clarify for me

the question here is WHY your car boosted 30psi when it should only be boosting stock psi right?

:confused:

or are you asking why your hitting fuel cut?
 
Then the thread title needs edited....the title makes it seem like he's wondering why he's seeing fuel cut at 30psi on the stock fuel system.

Overboost = bad wastegate actuator or boost creep.

I'm with you, mark the lines & remove them one at a time. Inspect the lines closely. If you find nothing wrong with the lines then search for how to properly test your wastegate.
 
Yes I fully understand im why I'm hitting fuel cut.
..
Will be checking wg tommarow thanks everyone

Connected the WG straight to the turbo outlet pipe.
Still boosted 20lbs (I was easy on the gas)

Also if the engine jumps after acceleration that means motor mounts right?
(After I let off the throttle the engine slams like it trys to keep goin)
 
Yes I fully understand im why I'm hitting fuel cut.
..
Will be checking wg tommarow thanks everyone

Connected the WG straight to the turbo outlet pipe.
Still boosted 20lbs (I was easy on the gas)

Also if the engine jumps after acceleration that means motor mounts right?
(After I let off the throttle the engine slams like it trys to keep goin)

If it also does it when your breaking then yes LOL thats how I'd always know when my mounts have gone bad. just take a look at them! 2 are very visible, the front center one is right between your turbo and radiato fans, the other one is the driver side one, which is just there in the open. and to see the passenger side one you'll have to remove the battery, cruise control mount thing by the battery, and the top intercooler piping. remove those three things and you'll have a clear view at your passenger side mount, and even get an ok glance and the rear center mount :thumb:
 
Thansk ya I looked at one of them and it looks preety thrashed how easy is it to replace mounts?
 
Thansk ya I looked at one of them and it looks preety thrashed how easy is it to replace mounts?

Take the wastegate pressure line and use an air blower attachment on a compressor and manually operate the wastegate. This will reveal if the wg is jammed shut.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 
well i say make sure that the WG flapper is working fine first. Just pull the pin from the wastegate actuator and pull the actuator arm off the flapper and make sure it moves freely. If so, reattach and test as Maverick4G63 says. If thats fine, I would look into possibly seeing if your gauge is defective...
 
well i say make sure that the WG flapper is working fine first. Just pull the pin from the wastegate actuator and pull the actuator arm off the flapper and make sure it moves freely. If so, reattach and test as Maverick4G63 says. If thats fine, I would look into possibly seeing if your gauge is defective...

I'll switch gauges and check it out.
I took out the wga and the rod pushes out when I attached the nipple to the air compressor.
So the waste gaste is working fine.

I have a 3inch exhaust and a big 16g........boost creep right.

Could I buy a stronger internal waste gate some where

And also how would I check if the WG flapper isn't shut is it attached to car somewhere still or is it the lid on thing I took out.

Is the lid supposed to open or just the rod move when I hook it up to an air compressor
 
Im a bit confused. The wastegate diaphragm pushes the connecting rod which opens the flapper. Is that happening or no?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 
I'm talking about when I have the waste gate actuater out of the car and connect a air compressor to the nipple on the waste gate actuater out of the car. Only the rod pushes up

I'm asking where is the wg flapper?
 
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