Overboosting on stock fuel system (no control of boost pressure).

[yeti-gvr4]

So after fixing all the boost leaks (still not all of them the jpipe, idle adjustment screw. And probably the throttle body)

Anyways took it for a quik spin around the block a few times (after letting it warm)
I was hitting 30+ lbs of boost and then slamming I would boost for about 5 seconds and then hit what I think to be fuel cut.

Could the minor leaks be causing the overboost?

The car still stalls at stop with no throttle it has symptoms of the "Hot start"(where the idle is as low as possible enough To start shaking shit)

I had the link to it does anybody know which web page I'm talking about.

 

[Maverick4g63]

On the exhaust side of the turbo. The flapper is internal. With the wg actuator removed, the plate that the push rod was connected to should swing back and forth freely.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

 

[yeti-gvr4]

On the exhaust side of the turbo. The flapper is internal. With the wg actuator removed, the plate that the push rod was connected to should swing back and forth freely.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

Yes the hinge swings freely

How hard is it to revert back to stock exhaust?
or what other options do I have for boost creep?

 

[Maverick4g63]

Im new to the turbo game so thats a little out of my league. I believe there are bolt on hot sides with ported waste gates but dont hold me to that. I dont see why you would encounter that much creep with your setup. Are you using stock cams? At what rpm are you encountering creep?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

 

[yeti-gvr4]

After about 3500 rpms the boost will creep off my boost gauge 30+
Its an autometer boost gauge so should work fine .

I have the waste gate actuater off the turbo now I'll drive it around the blok to see if my boost gauge is working .
How hard it to port the exhaust mani and the turbo inlet.

I've read plenty about it but stil don't know if I should just take it off and start porting.


If I went the 38mm wastegate route how much work would that be any suggestions

Okay hook it all back up minus the wga and the car doesaent build boost anymore it gets to 0psi on the gauge and starts sputtering is this normal for it to be sputtering I think I might have built maybe 3lbs of boost.

 

[richard33]

Get a fuel setup or put the stock turbo back on before you blow the motor.

 

[yeti-gvr4]

That doesn't cure boost creep from what I've read but you could be right.
If so any recommendations not some half a witty sentence?

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Okay hook it all back up minus the wga and the car doesaent build boost anymore it gets to 0psi on the gauge and starts sputtering is this normal for it to be sputtering I think I might have built maybe 3lbs of boost.

!!!!

This is a good thing. With the WGA arm disconnected and the flapper just hanging open, I would expect you NOT to be able to build any boost at all as this is the function of the flapper to begin with. This simply sounds like a case of boost creep. As far as the stock system being able to support 30+ PSI, you have already crossed a fine line of destruction. I am surprised your car is still running... literally... My opinion (take it or leave it) stop doing any pulls on your car. Get the supporting fuel modifications to support the creep or start looking up alternate solutions to creep. I am no expert on the matter and I don't want to point you in any wrong direction.

 

[avengerKid]

A manual boost controller might help with your boost creep.

 

[dsm03]

A manual boost controller might help with your boost creep.

Nope. Boost Creep will still happen.

Steps to take:

Port the Turbo inlet or install External WG

 

[gofer]

To the OP. Send me a PM and I'll personally take a look at your car if you'd like, I'll tell you if its actual boost creep or not. From what you said, with the WGA being disconnected from the flapper building 0-3psi is good since that means your internal wastegate works efficiently enough to re-route the exhaust gases around the turbine. The problem probably lies with your vacuum line routing or the wastegate actuator (WGA) could be bad as well.

Like I said, send me a PM if you want me to look at it.

 

[yeti-gvr4]

I don't think its boost creep I adjusted the WGA rod and made it longer it was so short it was forcing wastegate shut.

Now I get about 13lbs of boost max and then fall on my face. Cuts out.

I'm geussing I'm hitting fuel cut at 13lbs cause of boost leaks so the ecu is metering more air that there is. Or its metering right and I'm just loosing this air.
I ordered ecm link so it should be here in 3-5 days and should be posting a log up.

 

[gofer]

You never mentioned it was a Evo III 16g GT from eBay, that would have been good to know info in your OP. Glad you fixed the problem and you're going to like ECMLink, you should have probably gotten a wideband o2 sensor first though.

 

[yeti-gvr4]

Working on a wideband now
Chris (banishedmonk) told me to look into the innovate lc1
As for he siad the aem ones arnt as good for logging.
Sending you a pm now