1G Overboost with new tial wastegate

[ty4g63t]

I installed the external waste gate with the blk and blue spring which said would be around 17.5 lbs.i have it hooked from the turbo (fp red) directly to the wastegate(bottom vacuum). First and second gear went to 25lbs. I realized i blocked on of the top holes when i shouldnt so thought maybe that could be it so took that plug out. And i have the other two bottoms plugged but still goes to 25lbs in first and second. 3rd sometimes stays at 17 sometimes goes to 25lbs and 4th and 5th stay at 17lbs. Any suggestions on what im doing wrong or may be overlooking? I also left the water holes open but that shouldnt create the issue i believe

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[ty4g63t]

Down for any ideas on this anybody?

 

[We're on Boost]

still goes to 25lbs in first and second ...... 4th and 5th stay at 17lbs

The only thing I can think of is maybe you aren't going to a high enough rpm in 4th gear to see it make 25 psi like it does in 2nd gear.
What rpm have you taken it up to when you try this in 4th?
At what rpm does it hit 25 psi in 2nd?

When my car was first put together and had the minimum boost configuration (spring pressure) like yours does now, the boost would come up to "spring pressure" and then it would just keep going slowly upward all the way to the end of the pull (~7000 rpm) at which point it was at 25 psi which is way beyond "spring pressure". My spring is the default Tial spring which was about 13 psi supposedly.
The boost went like this in 3rd gear pulls on the dyno:
13 psi (spring pressure) at 4200 rpm
17 psi at 4650 rpm
25 psi at 6800 rpm

So one point there is, a lot of setups won't level off at "spring pressure" even though you just have the hose going straight from compressor outlet to bottom port on wastegate.
The other point is the slowness of boost rise past spring pressure if you don't have a boost controller operating a solenoid in a second hose going to an upper port on the wastegate. You might need high rpm (high speed in 4th) to see what boost really goes to.
With a boost controller and solenoid, you can set a "crack pressure" which will keep full pressure in the top port to keep the gate slammed shut until crack pressure is reached. In ECMlink it isn't called crack pressure, it is labeled something like "lock at 100% below (whatever boost you want for crack pressure).
Going up way past spring pressure like that is called "boost creep".

On my car I use a crack pressure that is 4 to 5 psi more than my spring pressure rating.
With your 17.5 psi spring, that would look something like this in ECMlink (22 psi):

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[ty4g63t]

The only thing I can think of is maybe you aren't going to a high enough rpm in 4th gear to see it make 25 psi like it does in 2nd gear.
What rpm have you taken it up to when you try this in 4th?
At what rpm does it hit 25 psi in 2nd?

When my car was first put together and had the minimum boost configuration (spring pressure) like yours does now, the boost would come up to "spring pressure" and then it would just keep going slowly upward all the way to the end of the pull (~7000 rpm) at which point it was at 25 psi which is way beyond "spring pressure". My spring is the default Tial spring which was about 13 psi supposedly.
The boost went like this in 3rd gear pulls on the dyno:
13 psi (spring pressure) at 4200 rpm
17 psi at 4650 rpm
25 psi at 6800 rpm

So one point there is, a lot of setups won't level off at "spring pressure" even though you just have the hose going straight from compressor outlet to bottom port on wastegate.
The other point is the slowness of boost rise past spring pressure if you don't have a boost controller operating a solenoid in a second hose going to an upper port on the wastegate. You might need high rpm (high speed in 4th) to see what boost really goes to.
With a boost controller and solenoid, you can set a "crack pressure" which will keep full pressure in the top port to keep the gate slammed shut until crack pressure is reached. In ECMlink it isn't called crack pressure, it is labeled something like "lock at 100% below (whatever boost you want for crack pressure).
Going up way past spring pressure like that is called "boost creep".

On my car I use a crack pressure that is 4 to 5 psi more than my spring pressure rating.
With your 17.5 psi spring, that would look something like this in ECMlink (22 psi):

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Thank you for the response!!! I hit 25lbs at about 5000rpms in 2nd and holds it thru 7500rpms. If i go wot from 2nd to 3rd it will also go straight to 25lbs also. If i start low rpm and then wot 3rd stays at 17. 4th i took up to 5500rpms and also stayed at 17. I havent done much with the ecu but i will hook up tonight to check that when i get home. Hoping to get tuned soon but wanted to make sure i have as much fixed/figured out before i do.
This is my first external waste gate so im a little lost, ive never had a boost dilemma like this with the internal and i thought when switching to external it was to be better at eliminating boost creep and be more reliable (please correct me if that is wrong) when i was running the 16g with billet wheel at 23lbs i never had an issue was very consistant. So just a lil confused with the big change going to fp red with external

 

[We're on Boost]

Is your ecu Link or ECMLink ? (2 completely different things)
If it is ECMLink you could post a log. For that matter you could post a log if it is Link. If it is Link you should probably call it Link G4X (or whatever) so people know it's not ECMLink.
Anyway right now you aren't using a boost controller at all, I gather. It's just the simple hose hookup.

The boost control setup you would really want with external wastegate looks like this:

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It's a 3-port solenoid valve controlled by your boost controller or by the boost control function in your ecu software.
If you are going to use the boost control that's in ECMLink, your solenoid should be the Ingersol-Rand solenoid that ECMtuning recommends.
A setup like that should be better than an internal wastegate, for sure.

But as for why your boost is acting like it is right now in the different gears, it does seem wrong.
Your Red is the UHF version. They come in an 8 cm turbine housing. I would expect that you would have some boost creep with it, like I did with my car (my turbine housing is a .63 a/r T3). That's why I'm not very surprised about the 25 psi in 2nd gear. What I think is more surprising is that it stays at 17 psi in 4th up to 5500 rpm, and also when you just go WOT through 3rd gear.
Leaving the water ports open should be ok.
Your 2 top air ports should be open also, and in post #1 you say they are both open.
And the 2 unused bottom air ports are plugged, so that is also as it should be.
Just in case there is any confusion about ports, I'll post the Tial pdf that labels the ports and has a written description of how to do the physical hookup in the right sidebar. Which I imagine you've already seen
Maybe we can tell something from a log.

 

[ty4g63t]

Is your ecu Link or ECMLink ? (2 completely different things)
If it is ECMLink you could post a log. For that matter you could post a log if it is Link. If it is Link you should probably call it Link G4X (or whatever) so people know it's not ECMLink.
Anyway right now you aren't using a boost controller at all, I gather. It's just the simple hose hookup.

The boost control setup you would really want with external wastegate looks like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

It's a 3-port solenoid valve controlled by your boost controller or by the boost control function in your ecu software.
If you are going to use the boost control that's in ECMLink, your solenoid should be the Ingersol-Rand solenoid that ECMtuning recommends.
A setup like that should be better than an internal wastegate, for sure.

But as for why your boost is acting like it is right now in the different gears, it does seem wrong.
Your Red is the UHF version. They come in an 8 cm turbine housing. I would expect that you would have some boost creep with it, like I did with my car (my turbine housing is a .63 a/r T3). That's why I'm not very surprised about the 25 psi in 2nd gear. What I think is more surprising is that it stays at 17 psi in 4th up to 5500 rpm, and also when you just go WOT through 3rd gear.
Leaving the water ports open should be ok.
Your 2 top air ports should be open also, and in post #1 you say they are both open.
And the 2 unused bottom air ports are plugged, so that is also as it should be.
Just in case there is any confusion about ports, I'll post the Tial pdf that labels the ports and has a written description of how to do the physical hookup in the right sidebar. Which I imagine you've already seen
Maybe we can tell something from a log.

Awesome! This was def the info i needed! I do have ecmlink, and a mbc i was going to wait to put on. After reading this though i think ill be better of getting the solenoid like you talked about above for a better tune going through link. Ill try and get a log up in the next few days got kinda busy work week and weekend. Thank you so much for your time and knowledge!

 

[We're on Boost]

Awesome! This was def the info i needed! I do have ecmlink, and a mbc i was going to wait to put on. After reading this though i think ill be better of getting the solenoid like you talked about above for a better tune going through link. Ill try and get a log up in the next few days got kinda busy work week and weekend. Thank you so much for your time and knowledge!

Sounds good!
Here's a link to the ECMtuning page for the Ingersoll-Rand 3-port solenoid.
I would go with their recommendation on this solenoid because they have checked it out for proper operation and for compatibility with the drivers in our ecu, and people have been happy with it. It has the right electrical resistance and works fine with the frequency of our ecu drivers' output.

The boost control feature in ECMLink has duty cycle by gear (it knows the gear you are in by RPM per MPH) and by RPM, so it's pretty nice.