2G Overboosting help

[Dawson159]

So yesterday was the first day I got to drive my Eclipse more than 2 miles at once and I noticed my boost gauge was reading 25psi and I was like oh shit so I pulled over and me and my friend tuned down my manual boost controller all the way down it read 12psi which made sence because 10psi is stock and 2psi is added when yo remove the boost solenoid?( correct if I’m wrong)

Well I drove it for about 2 hours just happy that I can finally drive it then as the night went on the car started performing worse and worse so we checked the boost gauge again (it was night time and the lights aren’t wired in yet) and I was hitting 25psi again so we thought that maybe the controller turns itself up but it was still turned all the way down so I looked it up and I’m pretty sure I have boost creep because I have a 3inch turboback exhaust which is probably causing it.

I have a freshly rebuilt t25 turbo in it and I don’t want to ruin it but I also don’t want to drop the turbo to make the wastegate bigger so I started researching and in my Chilton manual there is a diagram of the turbo and there is a little hole in the turbo next to the intake (I’ll take a picture) that is just open and the picture in the Chilton says it T’s off of the line that goes into the wastegate and that line is the manual boost controller.

So I’m totally lost rn Is there a vacuum line issue or is my wastegate just not big enough and I’m going to have to drop the turbo I’m not very mechanicaly inclined and this turbo wastegate stuff is kind of confusing to me so what do you guys think is the problem

Thanks in advance if you read that wall of words

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Dawson159]

With the hallman it needs to be hooked up according to my picture above. If it is backwards then you have an issue. So fix that if it needs it.
You should not be doing any pulls with your MAF unhooked. You can seriously hurt your engine. Im surprised the car even made boost without it hooked up. Did you blow an intercooler pipe maybe?

After reading some other threads I think my car may have gone into limp mode because the maf wasn’t plugged in

Also, when u said u turned the controller all the way down, im assuming u turned it where the spring is not pressurized right? If u turn it down(clockwise) then u are increasing the amount of boost it takes to push open the spring. If u turn the controller counter clockwise then u remove pressure from the spring.

If u have a hallman boost controller then it has to be routed as the picture above or your going to be boosting until u blow your turbo up.

Wait so turning it left makes the boost go up???

 

[chrysler kid]

Remove the boost controller and make it stock.

Just hook the tiny nipple on the turbo face directly to the wastegate gate.

 

[jakk220]

No that makes it go down

 

[Dawson159]

No that makes it go down

Oh ok so its turned all the way down but backwards

 

[Dsm panda]

Remove the boost controller and make it stock.

Just hook the tiny nipple on the turbo face directly to the wastegate gate.

I agree in maybe remove it to eliminate some factors whats it hurt?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Do a boost leak test. If the boost controller was installed backwards, your wastegate will never open.

You said it has been a while since you drove it. Besides installing the rebuilt turbo, was anything else done? It won't run right bc you have measured air that was escaping through the pressure source port.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Silly silly

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[93AWDDSM]

OP - Wow, I think you need to do a little research. Some of the stuff I read on this thread is scary. Also why do you have like 10000 same thread posts?

Boosting with the maf unplugged, what the....

I would do a thorough check of eveeything on the car at this point.

 

[Dawson159]

You said it has been a while since you drove it. Besides installing the rebuilt turbo, was anything else done? It won't run right bc you have measured air that was escaping through the pressure source port.

I replaced the oil filter, the spark plugs,the plug wires, the valve cover gaskets, and replaced the iac valve

 

[Dawson159]

Remove the boost controller and make it stock.

Just hook the tiny nipple on the turbo face directly to the wastegate gate.

So do I take one of the lines off the controller and hook it to the wastegate and the turbo face hole?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Do you recall if the gasket came out for the old IAC?

So do I take one of the lines off the controller and hook it to the wastegate and the turbo face hole?

Yes but make sure it's a tight fit to both ports. Make sure you plug in your MAF

 

[Dawson159]

Do you recall if the gasket come out for the old IAC?

I put the iac valve in then remembered that there was a gasket so I took it all back apart but the old gasket was still good so I didn’t take it out, (it wasnt all crumbly or falling apart)

 

[Dawson159]

Yes but make sure it's a tight fit to both ports. Make sure you plug in your MAF

Yah it was a big mistake to drive with it unplugged but now I’ll learn from my mistake

 

[AWD-Tony]

Yah it was a big mistake to drive with it unplugged but now I’ll learn from my mistake

We all live and learn. Good new is you didn't blow anything up.

You also want to make sure your wastegate is opening before taking another pull. As Chrysler Kid stated earlier, remove the wastegate rod so you can manually move the flapper. Next is to apply compressed air to the wastegate port to see that WG is opening all the way. Start with 10 psi and gradually increase.

You'll want a boost leak tester going forward. There are many videos on how to make one.

Wait so turning it left makes the boost go up???

There's a spring in the boost controller, length wise. When you compress the spring, you're turning up the boost. Less pressure to the WG. Does that make sense?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Dawson159]

We all live and learn. Good new is you didn't blow anything up.

You also want to make sure your wastegate is opening before taking another pull. As Chrysler Kid stated earlier, remove the wastegate rod so you can manually move the flapper. Next is to apply compressed air to the wastegate port to see that WG is opening all the way. Start with 10 psi and gradually increase.

You'll want a boost leak tester going forward. There are many videos on how to make one.



There's a spring in the boost controller, length wise. When you compress the spring, you're turning up the boost. Less pressure to the WG. Does that make sense?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Yah I read what boostdawd said and go confused but it’s tuned down all the way down but its hooked up wrong so it doesn’t matter so I’ll just take it off

 

[chrysler kid]

So do I take one of the lines off the controller and hook it to the wastegate and the turbo face hole?

Here you go

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I agree with @chrysler kid, delete the boost controller for now until you get everything figured out. Run a hose from the boost source(Compressor cover nipple) to the wastegate nipple.

 

[Dawson159]

Here you go

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Ok I’ll do that when I get home

 

[Dawson159]

Here you go

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

After I Do this should I go do a pull and see if it creeps/spikes?

 

[jakk220]

yes

 

[jakk220]

Also at some point you should ditch that hose clamp that you have on the intercooler pipe and use T-bolt clamps.

 

[doubleclutch]

Has anyone thought to mention that a t-25 wont generate 25 psi at redline? I ran a full turbo back 3 in with a t-25 and the psi would spike to 20 and then drop after 5k rpms to 12 psi.

Hoook it up straight to the wastegate like shown above, you shouldnt get more than 12 psi or something is wrong.

Thoughts?

 

[jakk220]

Has anyone thought to mention that a t-25 wont generate 25 psi at redline? I ran a full turbo back 3 in with a t-25 and the psi would spike to 20 and then drop after 5k rpms to 12 psi.

Hoook it up straight to the wastegate like shown above, you shouldnt get more than 12 psi or something is wrong.

Thoughts?

Well according to him hes is not taking it to redline.

It hits 3k rpms and it goes to 25psi right away then I let off because it hits so hard and it’s hard to control so should I see if it stays that high all the way to almost redline?

I guarantee if he did, it would fall back down to 15 or so. Im sure at the turbo hit it possible to spike that high with the boost controller hooked up backwards.

 

[Dawson159]

Well according to him hes is not taking it to redline.



I guarantee if he did, it would fall back down to 15 or so. Im sure at the turbo hit it possible to spike that high with the boost controller hooked up backwards.

I didn’t get to do a pull today but I fixed everything so tomorrow I’ll do a pull and tell u what happens

 

[PlanZero]

For future reference I actually had boost creep when I put on my 3" exhaust (no cat) with a T2small. Uncommon but happens. A tubular O2 housing fixed it. Just something to chew on.