Optima Red Top "Charcoal" Disc Crackling

[Red 4G63]

Hello Everyone,

I'm going to make this a quick and simple post, hopefully get some answers on my problem. I've done some research on Google, this website and Optima's website, but the topic isn't covered very well and there is nothing specific about good or bad conclusions.

I've got an Optima Red Top and I've had it for about 6yrs and it's been through 3 cars. After reading the majority of posts regarding the Optima brand, it seems I've gotten the most life out of this battery. I decided to start my Spyder this weekend, after it sitting under it's cover, in my garage, for about 2 weeks without starting. It barely turned over, but never started. It's done this to me on a few occasions this winter. So I got my trickle charger/maintainer out and hooked it up. I let it sit for 24 hours... only to come back to the charger reading "abort mode/replace battery". Now, I do understand the charger is newer technology than the battery (I purchased the charger only 5 months ago), but I started the car and it fired right up. So I unhooked the charger and let the car idle for about 25mins. I came back out to the garage and rev'd it up a few times to get the oil pump going and then let her cool down before shut-off. As I was deciding to put the trickle charger back on the battery, I noticed a small noise coming from the battery. It sounded like it was crackling from the "charcoal" like disc next to the POS terminal. I thought this was strangely odd and decided not to hook up the charger again. I then jumped on the computer and started reading. Nothing specific and no precise conclusions.

My question is this... has anyone ever had that problem and what did you determine should be the fix?

Thanks!
Jerrod

 

[gofer]

From what you're describing, it sounds to me like the battery is overcharging, which can cause it to eventually explode under the right conditions. Your alternator has a voltage regulator, if it fails it can potentially overcharge the battery every time you turn the car on. It's also possible to overcharge the battery using a battery charger, but since you just bought the one you've got a few months ago its not likely, new chargers control how much they charge the battery and then switch off.

With the car off check the voltage off the battery terminals using a multimeter, a good reading would be 11 to 12v. Then turn on the car, wear eye protection at the minimum cause who knows what might happen, and check the battery voltage while its idling. Anything above 14v that battery is getting overcharged by the alternator, which needs to be replaced before you drive it anywhere.

 

[Red 4G63]

Awesome info! Thank you Sir! I will be sure to borrow a Multi-Meter from my neighbor and do exactly as you suggest. Perhaps it's time for a new battery anyways... it has out-lasted 2 cars already! I'll post back with results.
Thanks!!

 

[gofer]

Awesome info! Thank you Sir! I will be sure to borrow a Multi-Meter from my neighbor and do exactly as you suggest. Perhaps it's time for a new battery anyways... it has out-lasted 2 cars already! I'll post back with results.
Thanks!!

I hope you didn't confuse that last sentence, in my first post, which said that "it" needs to be replaced if its overcharging. When I said "it" needs to be replaced I was referring to the alternator, not the battery, because that is whats causing it to overcharge.

It might not be a bad idea to replace the battery in this situation though, it is old and once its overcharged like that it could potentially ruin it so it won't hold a charge anymore.

 

[Red 4G63]

OK, I did confuse that part... just thought you were talking about the battery only. Would it be possible just to take the Alt to a rebuild shop (I have one close to me, so I'm told) and have them go through it and beef it up?! That might be more in my budget plus help me out when running all of my extra accessories (Air Ride Compressor, small system, Innovate WB, gauges and minor interior added lighting)... what do you think?

 

[gofer]

I don't know how much a shop would charge to increase the AMP output of a stock 2g alternator and I have no idea whats inside your budget either. The stock 2g alternator is a measly 75A unit but you can run a bigger, 90A alternator from a A/T '97 Galant, that will bolt/plug right in like stock.

Before you spend money on anything check the battery voltage with the car off (11-12 volts) and then with the car on (no higher than 14v) and see what you find.

 

[Red 4G63]

First things first... check voltage.... will do. I'll post back with results. Again, much appreciated for your timely response. If I didn't have to work a 12hr shift today... I would be doing it right now.

 

[99gst_racer]

Optima's are very picky when it comes to overcharging and charging from a heavy depletion. That's probably why your trickle charger wouldn't do anything.

I had an issue with a red top a few years back. It never held a charge for more than 24 hours, so it sat on the charger often. While driving down the road, that little disk shot right off the battery, hit my hatch glass, and rocketed toward the front of the cabin. It was loud. And pressure and liquid were spraying upward out from where the disk sat for several minutes. Needless to say, I replaced the battery immediately and haven't used Optima since.

 

[daren_p]

Under that charcoal looking disk is a pressure release valve. If the battery is overcharging, the valve will open & can shoot battery liquid (acid). I'd agree, you might be overcharging the battery.

When my alternator went last summer, I was unlucky & it ended up doing it by overcharging instead of undercharging. Was about 10min from my house when the battery light came on, switched the TT'er to volts to see 17-18 volts. Switched the car on/off the rest of the way home as voltage got up. When I poped the hood the Optima was making noises & had sprayed battery acid (if this happens clean it up quick as it will remove paint, even if just left to sit for a few mins). I was lucky, the Optima seemed fine after a new alternator & held up fine the rest of last summer.

I contacted Optima after it happened to clarify the issue & they said the over charge pressure vent was the cause & it should close back up when the overcharge condition is fixed & should function normal again (if you didn't hurt/kill) the battery.

 

[Red 4G63]

Great help guys. I'll be looking into getting my Alt checked out or simply replaced. It's a 1997 and I know it's stock... guess it's done it's duties for 13 years. I'm going to replace the battery, either way you look at it, it seems unsafe now. The disc is discolored compared to the NEG side, so I'm assuming some acid got into it, which will only cause it to be a weak spot now. Not worth the risk of screwing up anything under the hood. I've put way to much money into this car to be cheap now and risk a compromised battery. This is why I come to this site... never enough good information else-where! You guys are great.

 

[Red 4G63]

I found this on Ebay... (1997 Mitsubishi Galant 2.4L 110Amps Alternator - eBay (item 190506019630 end time Mar-27-11 11:14:37 PDT)) just wondered if you guys could take a look at it and let me know if it would be safe to use. 110Amps seems like a shit load of power, I really don't want to cook a new battery. Let me know what your opinion is and I'll go from there. I haven't purchased it yet, but I don't really want to let it go considering Advanced Auto wants $175 for the regular 95Amp Galant Reman from some bogus company.

Thanks!!

 

[daren_p]

Don't know specifically but alot of the rebuilds out there for us seem to be junk. Not sure if its just from heat but alot seem to fail much quicker then they should. When mine failed I ended up going with another OEM Mitsu. Figured the first one lasted 12 years, so hopefully I'll be good for awhile again.

110 amp sin't huge when your looking at alternators. That should work okay with our stock wiring, with the larger alternators, such as 160amp, etc they usually recommend replacing the stock wiring with 4awg. Either way, I'd recommend replacing the stock wiring if you can, not sure what awg it is, but its not very big. I will be doing my alternator & grounds this year with 4awg to hopefully see better voltage at lower rpms.

Another thing, might not be an issue with 110amp but search around, I know some guys weren't happy with the high output alternators (again like a 160amp model or something). Believe the output is good when the rpms are higher but at idle rpms believe some were having issues with voltage being low, which might be normal for these high output alternators.

 

[Red 4G63]

Good info, much appreciated. I'm going to look into the cost of an OEM in my area and see what the difference is. Then, go with which one seems more practical.

I was noticing on my Air Ride controller (hooked up to an accessory circuit (as suggested by Easy Street Co.) that it was reading 12.5V - 13.1V most of the time. Which, now looking back at the over-charging, seems a bit strange. Is 12.5V - 13.1V normal range for idle and cruise operation on our cars? I never really checked the voltage under load, seeing as though I needed to pay attention to the road, but I hadn't thought about it until now. How could my Alt. be overcharging my battery now? Up until the battery got too low to start the car, everything was fine. I always get the problems that are almost impossible to diagnose. Oh well! I'll probably take the Alt to Advanced and have them do a test on it for free. Then decide where to go from there. Either way, I'll be buying a new battery. I don't trust that charcoal disk after it's popped open once. Something just seems fishy about it, I don't like issues like that looming over my head while I'm trying to enjoy a nice drive. I've had too many cars that needed to be babied as I drove them, this one I want built to last without those worries.

Thanks as always!

 

[Red 4G63]

So, a quick update on this topic.

I took the Alt. out, had to squeeze it out the top of the engine bay because I had dropped the car all the way on the ground without thinking when I stored it and emptied the air tank. What fun that was!! Not. Took the battery and the Alt. to Advanced Auto for them to check them both. Alt. came back right in the normal operating range and the batter tested 11.1volts and 311CC amps. Now something doesn't make sense. If there battery was shot, it would have been much lower than this!?, considering it sat for 2 weeks without starting the car or putting the charger on it. So, I figured that I would have them charge it and see where that put it. After an hour of charging on their charger, it was up to 12.4volts and 771CC amps. Looking good!!

I decided to just get a Re-manufactured Alt. by a company called World Class, which I've been told is a reasonable company that makes a lot of OEM parts for Imports from the factory. The old Alt. might have been tested ok, but I believe the main culprit was that it had been caked with oil grease and grime after 13yrs of service. Once heated up, it would short something out and cause it to over-charge the battery. I felt pretty confident in this prediction and didn't feel like taking a chance putting it back in the car for the hot summer months. I really don't need to be stranded or beat the battery up any more than it already has been.

Went home after getting my parts back and decided to install them. Alt. wasn't too hard getting it back in, just sucks that you have to take the splash guard out to get the bracket bolt in and out. Then I decided to install the Negative quick release terminal so I can just twist the knob to disconnect the battery when it's being stored for the winter. The Neg. battery wire terminal was shot, so that got another ugly thing out from under my hood. Haven't started the car yet, I wanted to give it another couple days and test the battery before I start it, while I start it and after the car warms up. Then I'll know if the new Alt. is doing it's job and whether or not the battery is going to make it through the summer.

I'll keep this post updated with any new info, if there is anything more to report.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.