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Oil pump timing mark or screwdriver?

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jukematt

15+ Year Contributor
291
40
Jun 13, 2009
Portland Metro, Oregon
I couldn't find anything from searching but following the VFAQ for installing the timing belt, it says you can either do the screwdriver method (in the back of the block) and leave it in there until timing belt installation is complete or do the "easier" method and align the timing mark straight up and see which way it falls.

Well, I decided to use the screwdriver method but my problem lies with the fact that I cannot line up the timing mark with the screw driver inserted. The mark has a range of about 1 o'clock to 4 o'clock position. But the timing mark on the front case is like 11 o'clock. If I remove the screw driver and rotate it back so the mark lines up, the screwdriver can no longer be inserted.

So... which should I do? And if using the screwdriver method, should I have it as far counterclockwise as possible (1 o'clock) or as far clockwise, or in between?

I'm surprised no one else has come across this.
 
Ditch the screwdriver. Rotate the gear to 12 o'clock and let it fall. It should fall back towards the mark. If it falls forward, rotate it 360* back to 12 o'clock and let if fall again. This time it should fall towards the mark. Once this is complete, line up the marks and install the belt.
 
Id assume with the screwdriver method, try pulling the screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear till its timed where the screwdriver wont go in, then go 360*. Try inserting the screwdriver again.
 
Ditch the screwdriver. Rotate the gear to 12 o'clock and let it fall. It should fall back towards the mark. If it falls forward, rotate it 360* back to 12 o'clock and let if fall again. This time it should fall towards the mark. Once this is complete, line up the marks and install the belt.

OK thanks! Maybe that's why my car was shaking at idle so bad when I first did the timing after the rebuild. I figured it was just because of the polyurethane engine mounts LOL.

I'm going to have to come visit you when I go back to visit family in Portland. You've been a big help to me. Hopefully I won't still have an oil leak when I get done here. I created a thread last night asking about a small gap around the crank where the new oil seal is but after 40 views, still no responses so I just started going ahead and putting it all back together.

Crank oil seal gap?

Id assume with the screwdriver method, try pulling the screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear till its timed where the screwdriver wont go in, then go 360*. Try inserting the screwdriver again.

That doesn't work, plus if I do that, the tendency is for the balance shaft to rotate clockwise which is not the right way.
 
Hmm, then I'm going with the oil pump is not timed correctly internally....

I don't think that is possible. The balance shaft is one piece and the pump sprocket with the timing mark on it can only be installed one way due to one flat side. Unless Mitsubishi totally screwed up manufacturing this particular balance shaft which wouldn't make a whole lot of sense.
 
+1 to the settin the gear to 12 o'clock and letting it fall. I have always used this method without so much as a second guess.
 
I don't think that is possible. The balance shaft is one piece and the pump sprocket with the timing mark on it can only be installed one way due to one flat side. Unless Mitsubishi totally screwed up manufacturing this particular balance shaft which wouldn't make a whole lot of sense.

It is totally possible for the gears to be out of time. There are marks on both gears that have to be lined up when you put the oil pump together. If they are not than the rear balance shaft will be out of time regardless.
 
It is totally possible for the gears to be out of time. There are marks on both gears that have to be lined up when you put the oil pump together. If they are not than the rear balance shaft will be out of time regardless.

Oh yes I forgot about that. But I did align them when I put it together.
 
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