Resolved Oil pressure/90 filter housing issue

[jpmxrider489]

That entire pump is bad. Are you pulling this motor down?

The motor is pulled. I don't plan on tearing the whole thing apart though if that's what your asking.

Too worn in one side, maybe you had too much tension on the timing belt. I guess the leak was from the sprocket seal since probably it doesn't sit in center anymore. Maybe this was causing the low pressure, too.

I am hoping that is the cause of the leak. I didn't see any metal in the pan when I drained it. But I pulled the the pump apart and the sprocket shaft was extremely scored as well as inside the front case. Now I did have the timing belt to tight for probably 3 minutes but fixed it. Would that be enough to destroy the pump immediately? I have had the oil leak the whole life of the motor as well as low pressure when warm. I think its a saving grace that I decided to pull this out when I did.

Now moving on, I need to get a front case. I read something about straight and helical gears. I have helical gears with a stubby bs delete. I should be running straight gears? Now on extremepsi, they have OEM for 300, Topline for 150, and ACL/Orbit for 150 on sale. Is there a right or wrong one to get? I also need a part number for the bs plug for the top left of the case.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Here are some more pics of the damage.

I ordered a early 6 bolt front case with straight gears. Is there any modifications that should be done to the new front case?

 

[DSMPT]

Now I did have the timing belt to tight for probably 3 minutes but fixed it. Would that be enough to destroy the pump immediately?

Hard to tell if it happened in that 3 min or by time. But the point is even if it didn't immediately destroy the pump, 3 min is more than enough to damage a little. If the pump got damaged a little at that time, it could have become a time bomb. It was getting worse and worse by time. So the 3 min could have caused this, I imagine.

I ordered a early 6 bolt front case with straight gears. Is there any modifications that should be done to the new front case?

As for the pump and gears, I was actually replying you but found you posted a new before I posted and you already ordered it.
Yes, the best way to go with is Mitsubishi parts, but the straight drive and driven gear have already been discontinued. I don't know where you ordered those but did you confirm that those were in stock when you placed the order? Don't forget to order a OEM stub shaft (MD098626) if it also got damaged. And the OEM front balance shaft hole cap part number is MD092785.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Hard to tell if it happened in that 3 min or by time. But the point is even if it didn't immediately destroy the pump, 3 min is more than enough to damage a little. If the pump got damaged a little at that time, it could have become a time bomb. It was getting worse and worse by time. So the 3 min could have caused this, I imagine.

As for the pump and gears, I was actually replying you but found you posted a new before I posted and you already ordered it.
Yes, the best way to go with is Mitsubishi parts, but the straight drive and driven gear have already been discontinued. I don't know where you ordered those but did you confirm that those were in stock when you placed the order? Don't forget to order a OEM stub shaft (MD098626) if it also got damaged. And the OEM front balance shaft hole cap part number is MD092785.

Well I ordered the parts then received a call saying that was discontinued. So I went to order the helical gears and he said that md174581 was discontinued as well. This was from Mitsubishi wholesale parts. Now I think RTM has the helical gears but dont want to order from them. Is there where with fast shipping I can source the right stuff? Is there a alternative to the straight gears from a third party company? Also with helical gears, should I still be running the stubby shaft?

Another update, I called extreme, They said that the topline and acl come with the gears. They are half the cost and include the gears. Should I pay extra for the oem pump and order the helical gears? Extreme said the 7 bolt helical gears work in the 6 bolt front case. I also could order the topline or acl and just use the oem helical gears? It looks like my only option is the helical gears.

 

[DSMPT]

with helical gears, should I still be running the stubby shaft?

You must have the stub shaft as long as if you eliminated the balance shaft. The stub shaft is necessary to keep the driven gear in position.

They said that the topline and acl come with the gears. They are half the cost and include the gears. Should I pay extra for the oem pump and order the helical gears?

Yes that's right that those aftermarket pumps come with the gears. And yes, they are way cheaper than the Mitsubishi OEM pump.
As I mentioned above that the OEM pump and gears would be the best way to go. No doubt on that and It's the safest way. But I have used a couple of ALC pumps before without any issues. Please refer the link below. (the post #18)
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/acl-pump-just-my-luck.529442/#post-153767374

Extreme said the 7 bolt helical gears work in the 6 bolt front case.

Yes right. All the helical drive/driven gears are the same between 1G, 2G and EVO1-9. So it would be easier to find.

I also could order the topline or acl and just use the oem helical gears? It looks like my only option is the helical gears.

I have seen that some people do that. But if you would do that, pay much attention to the gear/housing clearance when install.

 

[jpmxrider489]

What possibly cause low oil pressure inside of block is balance shaft oil feed ports or/and oil squirter check valves. It's a good chance to inspect since the oil pan is off now. Check if the balance shaft oil feed ports are surely blocked off and the oil squirter check valves are not internally stuck wide open and if return smoothly. And of course, should inspect the oil pump itself, too.
Your OFH looks ported too much. My guess is that's the cause of the low oil pressure at idle. Try another unported OFH may be a good idea, if possible.

I attached some photos of progress. I got the oem pump installed with new seals and gears. I had some more questions now. First, is there a special tool to tighten the castle plug to 14 pounds? I used a screwdriver and pushed it fairly hard but Im not sure how to get it tighter. Since we might have found my oil leak and maybe found the lack of pressure when warm. Since this is getting fixed, should I see higher pressures when warm?

You mentioned in the post to make sure all the ports are clear with the pan off. I saw the picture earlier in the thread, but is there any other pictures and ports that I should be making sure are clear besides the one on the block near the pickup tube? My other question is regarding all the bolts on the front case and block? Are there any bolts besides the timing tensioner that get RTV since its in the oil galley. Are there bolts on the front case that do this as well? I have read that the front case bolts get 16lb of torque. The stubby shaft I torqued to 29. I also installed new dowel pins.

Another thing I found was the oil pickup tube was missing the copper crush washer o ring thing. I put one in as well. I attached a rough picture of the crush washers and O rings the kit came with. I know the large ones are for the water pipe and tube. But I am not sure what the smaller black O rings are for. Same with the crush washers. I realized that I didnt take the picture of all the orings and crush washers. Ill try and update this again.

My last area to perfect in the oil situation is the OFH. Now I cant get a new ofh at this time but I would like to make sure the current one is solid. When I removed it, I noticed a lot of rtv was in a hole. Could of been a issue but I am not sure. Now the few pics that I attached of the ofh, the bolt that looks overtightened, is there oring or crush washers that I should replace under it? Then the round large bolt, same question with that one?

 

[DSMPT]

First, is there a special tool to tighten the castle plug to 14 pounds? I used a screwdriver and pushed it fairly hard but Im not sure how to get it tighter. Since we might have found my oil leak and maybe found the lack of pressure when warm. Since this is getting fixed, should I see higher pressures when warm?

Yes, there is a socket for that but I am sure most of people don't have it. Mostly make their own tool or doing like what you mentioned. It wouldn't be a problem as long as if it has an o-ring and tight enough to not get loose or a leak, As for the low pressure issue, maybe the damaged pump was causing, too. But as you said that you always have the low pressure issue, I still think there is a possibility that too much porting on the OFH was the cause. (Or one of causes)

You mentioned in the post to make sure all the ports are clear with the pan off. I saw the picture earlier in the thread, but is there any other pictures and ports that I should be making sure are clear besides the one on the block near the pickup tube?

I think you are talking about the oil squirters valves and two balance shaft oil feed ports (where I marked green in the attached pic. I borrow the pic from another post). Those are what I recommended to check while the oil pan is off since those are in the block and potentially cause low oil pressure. It's just for in case.

Another thing I found was the oil pickup tube was missing the copper crush washer o ring thing. I put one in as well. I attached a rough picture of the crush washers and O rings the kit came with. I know the large ones are for the water pipe and tube. But I am not sure what the smaller black O rings are for. Same with the crush washers. I realized that I didnt take the picture of all the orings and crush washers. Ill try and update this again.

As for the o-ring and crush washers. I am not sure which one you are referring to. but to install the oil pickup doesn't need those. A gasket between the pickup/the pump inlet, two M8 20mm length bolts for oil pickup should be assembled with spring washer and a washer and a nut to mount it onto a main cap, that's all for the oil pickup. An aftermarket gasket kit normally include somethings you don't actually use.

My last area to perfect in the oil situation is the OFH. Now I cant get a new ofh at this time but I would like to make sure the current one is solid. When I removed it, I noticed a lot of rtv was in a hole. Could of been a issue but I am not sure. Now the few pics that I attached of the ofh, the bolt that looks overtightened, is there oring or crush washers that I should replace under it? Then the round large bolt, same question with that one?

RTV probably wasn't a direct cause of low pressure but that may cause somewhere clogged. That's the reason why @pauleyman told you not to use RTV.
You can try to use your OFH and see if you would have higher pressure or not. If the oil pressure would still be low as before, then probably it's ported too much. Maybe shimming the oil pressure relief valve spring would make it better, if it wouldn't, you would probably need another OFH that is not ported too much.
No, you don't need o-rings or crush washers to mount the OFH. Only the pressure relief valve has a crush washer. And if you run an external oil cooler, IN/OUT ports should have sealed washers or crush washers, it depend what fitting you have.

As for the oil leak that you had, judging by the pics, I am almost certain that the leak was occurring at the oil pump drive gear shaft/sprocket seal. Maybe was leaking from somewhere else too, but anyways all should be fixed once you install everything properly.
As for the oil on the pressure relief valve and oil cooler bypass valve in the pic above, it looks like it's thrown by the pump sprocket or the timing belt.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Here is a side by side comparison of an ACL pump (which I use and am happy with) and a CNS pump. I didn't have an original, straight cut gear pump on hand so I compaired these two. I have great oil pressure in my motors. 85-90 cold start, 17 hot idle with ACL pumps.
I also show a socket that I modified to use as the castle nut socket, so scroll down thru the pictures.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/acl-vs-cns-oil-pump-comparison.522309/

 

[jpmxrider489]

The squirters dont appear clocged. If they were oil wouldn't get to the head? Also though if I should get the kiggly hla to keep oil in the pan since I'm not running the crank scraper.

If you look where the balance shaft rode, it looks scraped up. I'm thinking that has to be from the previous owner because the motor I believe is bored.

 

[DSMPT]

The squirters dont appear clocged.

What you should check is if the check valves are not stuck and the jets are not clogged. Please refer the pics below.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If they were oil wouldn't get to the head?

The oil squirters don't "directly" affect that unless valves get stuck open and cause low pressure.

if I should get the kiggly hla to keep oil in the pan since I'm not running the crank scraper.

The Kiggly HLA pressure regulator is beneficial. And 6 bolt doesn't have a crank scraper from factory, you have a 6 bolt block, correct?

If you look where the balance shaft rode, it looks scraped up. I'm thinking that has to be from the previous owner because the motor I believe is bored.

What you have to make sure is if two "oil feed ports" for front balance shaft are surely blocked off. If those are not blocked off, you would loose oil pressure.

 

[dustyboner]

If you look where the balance shaft rode, it looks scraped up. I'm thinking that has to be from the previous owner

yup, the previous owner probably jacked it up when knocking out the bearings for the balance shaft delete.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Here is a side by side comparison of an ACL pump (which I use and am happy with) and a CNS pump. I didn't have an original, straight cut gear pump on hand so I compaired these two. I have great oil pressure in my motors. 85-90 cold start, 17 hot idle with ACL pumps.
I also show a socket that I modified to use as the castle nut socket, so scroll down thru the pictures.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/acl-vs-cns-oil-pump-comparison.522309/

I like the tool you made. Very clever. I just used a screwdriver and tapped it tight. I could feel it bottom out. The pumps comparison is good. Slight differences.

What you should check is if the check valves are not stuck and the jets are not clogged. Please refer the pics below.


The oil squirters don't "directly" affect that unless valves get stuck open and cause low pressure.


The Kiggly HLA pressure regulator is beneficial. And 6 bolt doesn't have a crank scraper from factory, you have a 6 bolt block, correct?


What you have to make sure is if two "oil feed ports" for front balance shaft are surely blocked off. If those are not blocked off, you would loose oil pressure.

How would I physically check this? The picture is good but no instruction. I did get compressed air and spray into the bottom. The picture with the arrows. Does that have the balance shaft holes correctly plugged or what ever you were saying? Mine looks like that picture. Should I measure oil pressure at the head after its in the car? Yes my car is a 6 bolt bottom end, eagle crank, wiseco pistons, and turbo tuff rods. Do you have a picture showing the proper block off? I could get the kiggly hla if its recommended.

So two things here if I'm reading correct. First make sure the check valves are not clocked. Second make sure balance shafts ports are plugged. This area is definitely new to me. I apologize if I sound dumb .

Dont people delete oil squirters? Is this something I should do? I did use a drill and have the pickup suck oil and I have no leaks so far.

 

[dustyboner]

the 2 bearings for the front balance shaft are normally clocked so the hole in the bearing is at a little past 3 o'clock. in that position the holes in the bearings line up with the holes in the block.
you need to make sure (if your using stock bearings) that the bearings are clocked differently so they block the oiling holes in the block.

here are the 2 holes that need to be blocked.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

i just used solid bearings (no oil holes). If thats what your engine has then the holes are blocked no matter what.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[DSMPT]

I did use a drill and have the pickup suck oil and I have no leaks so far.

So you already installed the oil pan?

How would I physically check this?

As for the balance shaft oil feed ports, you can check by your eye. Using a small mirror or phone's camera may help you. How those are blocked off would be depending on who built the engine before. Some use balance shaft bearings to block off by rotating it, some use plugs, some prefer to weld, some forget to block off... Please refer the pic below and the pic in the post above for the location where you need to check. I guess this is not your case since it looks you have been driving the car a lot. Because IN CASE If those have not been blocked off since the engine was built, you were probably losing way too much oil pressure and you should have been hearing rod knock.

As for the oil squirter check valves, what you should check is if the plunger in the check valve smoothly moves to the red position and smoothly returns to the green position by spring. And make sure the holes that where I marked blue are not clogged.

In the oil squirter check valve, there is a plunger with a spring inside the check valve. And when the oil pressure is low, like at idle, normally it stays at the green position (closed position).
When the oil pressure gets close to 30 psi, the pressure would start to push the plunger to the red position (open position) and would open the oil passage (blue marks on the side) then the jet will shoot the oil to the inside of the piston to cool it down... it then returns to the green position (closed position) when the oil pressure gets lower than the opening pressure.
So normally it's closed at idle. But for some reason if the plunger is stuck at the open position, it keeps letting oil go to the jet. In that case, the minimum oil pressure at idle may get lowered a little bit.

Dont people delete oil squirters? Is this something I should do?

Some have, some delete, some use a non turbo block. In general, deleting the oil squirters wouldn't be a big problem, unless you do endurance racing or so. But it would increase the maximum oil pressure.
Even if you have them, totally no problem. Just make sure all jets are in good condition. It's kind of common that the jets get broken by time, vibration, contacting with piston/rod and fallen into oil pan. And you would find it at next oil change or when you drop the oil pan.

P.S. If you don't have a FSM, I recommend to have one. It would save your time and money in the future. You can find many manuals in the link below.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/forum/articles-manuals-documents.262/

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I found these in my oil pan on a motor that I purchased so not my own build. I don't have an explanation except vibration or physical contact with a rod. I replaced all 4 and made sure the check valves where good and I cleaned the jets with a single strand of copper wire out of a random piece of wire that I stripped to rob one strand out of. Good thing I did as one of the replacement tubes was plugged. It cleaned right out with the wire and some brake parts cleaner.
Here is what I found when I pulled the pan.
3 squirter tubes AND a plastic spray straw....I never figured out where the small chunk of metal came from
I have to mention that each squirter requires 2 aluminum crush washers to seal them, part # MD660034.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[jpmxrider489]

So I checked all the nozzles and valves. The valves move up and return with spring. I noticed the wrong size crush washer was on one of the nozzles. Maybe that was leaking? I confirmed the middle bs bearing has no oil hole at all. The bearing in the front case has a hole but looks plugged with a allen bolt or something. I cant put a pick in the hole, it rides flush on the surface. The whole that's plugged is facing left and the oil port is on the right.

I installed all new crush washers and torqued to 24.

 

[dustyboner]

the hole facing left with the plug in it, is from when the factory drilled the oil passages. its nothing to worry about

 

[DSMPT]

So I checked all the nozzles and valves. The valves move up and return with spring. I noticed the wrong size crush washer was on one of the nozzles. Maybe that was leaking?

I don't think it was leaking from there as long as if it was tighten enough. Even if it was leaking, it was probably just oozing out and it doesn't affect much.

I confirmed the middle bs bearing has no oil hole at all. The bearing in the front case has a hole but looks plugged with a allen bolt or something. I cant put a pick in the hole, it rides flush on the surface. The whole that's plugged is facing left and the oil port is on the right.

Sounds like those are blocked off properly. The one in the pic is probably plugged. You don't need to worry much about this. As I told you above, if it wasn't blocked off, you probably already spun the bearings.

I installed all new crush washers and torqued to 24.

I found these in my oil pan on a motor that I purchased so not my own build. I don't have an explanation except vibration or physical contact with a rod.

That was I was talking about. Even there was no physical contact with piston/rod, the soldered/welded part on jet gets cracked and fall down.

 

[jpmxrider489]

I don't think it was leaking from there as long as if it was tighten enough. Even if it was leaking, it was probably just oozing out and it doesn't affect much.


Sounds like those are blocked off properly. The one in the pic is probably plugged. You don't need to worry much about this. As I told you above, if it wasn't blocked off, you probably already spun the bearings.

You don't think the wrong crush washer was causing a leak? Either way, Its more of a piece of mind that I went over the squirters and verified there good as well as replacing the crush washers. I wondered why there were so many crush washers in my kit . I also agree that they seem to be properly plugged. I say that because I see where its plugged but cant put a pick through it and it seems flush with the bearing. Plus its installed with the plug in a different direction than the oil hole. But I am glad I went back and went the extra mile to check these things.

I believe that I double check everything correct? Now I didn't plug a whole on the new front case. I assumed the bearing with the plug in it that I pictured above was the same thing as blocking the galley in the front case its self.

I am getting ready to install the pan. I bought a 6 bolt pan gasket and don't plan on using rtv. See a issue with that?

Random question, but do you build motors for people? I see your profile pic and you are extremely knowledgeable in this area.

Ill tell you what though. This thread is full of good info for other people in the future, especially with all the pictures as reference. Ive learned a lot in this thread.

I was kind of hoping to find a weird oil squirter to justify my low pressure at idle. Oil pressure when warm after a drive is like 6psi. Isnt that when the dummy light comes on? Ill look for another 90 ofh and port it less than what I have now but it will be a little while before I get to that.

 

[DSMPT]

I was kind of hoping to find a weird oil squirter to justify my low pressure at idle. Oil pressure when warm after a drive is like 6psi. Isnt that when the dummy light comes on? Ill look for another 90 ofh and port it less than what I have now but it will be a little while before I get to that.

My guess on the cause of low oil pressure issue at idle that you had is still by the failed oil pump and/or the OFH is being ported too much.
Where are you reading the oil pressure at? and are you logging it? Oil pressure number may be different by the location where you install the sensor. And in case if you get another OFH, do not port for now. You don't exactly need porting the OFH as long as if you don't have some issue related to high oil pressure.

You don't think the wrong crush washer was causing a leak?

By seeing the wrong washer in the pic you upload, it looks like it has the same or very close inner diameter, the difference is only the outer diameter. So, as I answered above, my opinion is probably it wasn't leaking but even if it was leaking from there, probably it should have been very minimum as long as if the check valves were tighten. Probably that didn't affect the oil pressure that much.

I believe that I double check everything correct?

As long as if you would install everything back properly, it should be fine. If I have to say, my only concern is you didn't check the bearings/journals. But I know you have made up your mind not to do that as you mentioned it earlier. So just let's hope the oil filter did its job well not to let any objects from the damage on the pump go through to oil main passage.

I am getting ready to install the pan. I bought a 6 bolt pan gasket and don't plan on using rtv. See a issue with that?

I think you are confused a little bit. It's not recommend to use a gasket between oil pan and block. You "can" use it but that gasket would get hard or smashed easily and would cause oil leak sooner or later. Use RTV, please refer the pic below. Degrease and clean both surface very well, and Ultra Grey or equivalent RTV would seal very well.
And just pay attention to the oil pan bolt length. There are 2 bolts that are shorter than the others. Those 2 bolts go under the pump sprocket (Refer where I marked red in the pic below). If you would use normal length bolts there, those would rub the timing belt and damage it.

Now I didn't plug a whole on the new front case.

Which hole are you referring to?

Random question, but do you build motors for people? I see your profile pic and you are extremely knowledgeable in this area.

Now I do only for my DSMs. Yes, this area is what I like, like everyone has their own field of expertise. There are many active members in this forum who are very knowledgeable and helpful, such as the members who have replied to you in this thread and of course there are more.
In this time, it just happened to be me who replies to you most. Because probably the other members avoided to make confusions and mess in the thread by answering for multiple questions by multiple people in the same time.

Ill tell you what though. This thread is full of good info for other people in the future, especially with all the pictures as reference. Ive learned a lot in this thread.

Yes, that's what this forum for and all members are trying to

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[jpmxrider489]

My guess on the cause of low oil pressure issue at idle that you had is still by the failed oil pump and/or the OFH is being ported too much.
Where are you reading the oil pressure at? and are you logging it? Oil pressure number may be different by the location where you install the sensor. And in case if you get another OFH, do not port for now. You don't exactly need porting the OFH as long as if you don't have some issue related to high oil pressure.

So I am reading pressure at the gauge pressure port in the picture I attached. I tested pressure there and at the turbo feed and they both read the same. I also have the sensor mounted on the firewall using a sensor block. I also know it reads the same at both locations. The gauge is a aem gauge. I am not logging it. I wish I could I don't have any more available inputs. I am using the other input to log fuel pressure. Everything I read about deleting balance shafts. say to relieve the extra pressure It needs ported. But if I do end up needing one, ill test it without porting first. I guess ill cross that bridge when I get to it.

By seeing the wrong washer in the pic you upload, it looks like it has the same or very close inner diameter, the difference is only the outer diameter. So, as I answered above, my opinion is probably it wasn't leaking but even if it was leaking from there, probably it should have been very minimum as long as if the check valves were tighten. Probably that didn't affect the oil pressure that much.

The old crush washers would fall off the bolt. The new ones fit really well. Snug on the bolt. The old one that was larger definitely had some wiggle room. It was definitely to big. But I think I agree that it isn't the source of anything major.

As long as if you would install everything back properly, it should be fine. If I have to say, my only concern is you didn't check the bearings/journals. But I know you have made up your mind not to do that as you mentioned it earlier. So just let's hope the oil filter did its job well not to let any objects from the damage on the pump go through to oil main passage.

I'm not sure I understand. I want to check everything that I need to. The BS bearing are plugged. The bearing in the picture above that was scraped up doesn't have a oil hole. The one near the front case also has a plug that you said isn't a issue. What bearing and journals are you talking about? I also spun the pump with a drill while sucking up oil. I also sprayed and blew air in the small oil hole in the engine near the front case and oil pickup. Please clarify what bearings and journals I need to check as well as where and how? Sorry if I gave the wrong impression.

I think you are confused a little bit. It's not recommend to use a gasket between oil pan and block. You "can" use it but that gasket would get hard or smashed easily and would cause oil leak sooner or later. Use RTV, please refer the pic below. Degrease and clean both surface very well, and Ultra Grey or equivalent RTV would seal very well.
And just pay attention to the oil pan bolt length. There are 2 bolts that are shorter than the others. Those 2 bolts go under the pump sprocket (Refer where I marked red in the pic below). If you would use normal length bolts there, those would rub the timing belt and damage it.

I actually have the pan studded for nuts instead of bolts. I know about the smaller ones on the timing side and made sure they are correct length. What is the torque spec on the pan? I normally just tighten them up decent. As for sealant, I have Great Stuff grey. I also have Permatex black which is oil resistant but I still had leaks at the pan area with it. I also have Red the high temp stuff. Since all past sealants leaked I was hoping for the Felpro gasket would be good. What sealant do you use on your builds for pans?

Which hole are you referring to?

I think neverminded on this hole. On the front case where I installed the rubber plug/seal since I have no balance shafts. I think that hole is the same hole that I made sure is plugged with a bolt. You said it wouldn't be a issue. That is the hole that was questioned but I think I answered my own question.

Now I do only for my DSMs. Yes, this area is what I like, like everyone has their own field of expertise. There are many active members in this forum who are very knowledgeable and helpful, such as the members who have replied to you in this thread and of course there are more.

So you build motors full time and have your own shop? Its kinda funny but when looking for certain help, I know who to look for on this forum. Like we got a engine guy, electrical, tranny, and many other experts . Im at a point in my build where I need help above the average guy on here. Im always finding good people and who know way more than me on this car. I been building these cars since 2011.

 

[DSMPT]

say to relieve the extra pressure It needs ported. But if I do end up needing one, ill test it without porting first. I guess ill cross that bridge when I get to it.

Yes that's right. And what I meant was like you said. I recommend, First, should try with the OFH you have (Don't forget to clean in the OFH) and if it still reads low pressure at idle, try to shim a little bit the oil pressure relieve valve spring. That may help to increase the min and max oil pressure. If that doesn't work, get another OFH and check the oil pressure. Then in case if you think the pressure is too high and would like to lower the pressure, port it or shim the pressure relieve valve plug to lower the max oil pressure. I use a non turbo block without balance shafts and a non turbo block doesn't have oil squirters. I don't actually port my OFH, I have never had any issues. I just shim the pressure relieve valve plug to lower the max pressure when I need, like the pic in the link below. (Post #4)
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/quick-oil-pressure-question.532564/#post-153788814

I'm not sure I understand. I want to check everything that I need to. The BS bearing are plugged. The bearing in the picture above that was scraped up doesn't have a oil hole. The one near the front case also has a plug that you said isn't a issue. What bearing and journals are you talking about? I also spun the pump with a drill while sucking up oil. I also sprayed and blew air in the small oil hole in the engine near the front case and oil pickup. Please clarify what bearings and journals I need to check as well as where and how? Sorry if I gave the wrong impression.

I was talking about the main and the rod bearings and crank journals. If those got damaged or not by shards from broken oil pump or/and low oil pressure issue. But to check those you would need to disassemble more things. And you said that you are not planning to do that in earlier post.

What is the torque spec on the pan? I normally just tighten them up decent. As for sealant, I have Great Stuff grey. I also have Permatex black which is oil resistant but I still had leaks at the pan area with it. I also have Red the high temp stuff. Since all past sealants leaked I was hoping for the Felpro gasket would be good. What sealant do you use on your builds for pans?

Torque spec is 4 to 6 ft-ibls. Please refer the pic below.
And as for sealant, as I mentioned, I personally use only Permatex Ultra Grey for oil pan. I have never had any leak from oil pan. Search the forum, you will find many infos about this. People have their own preference by own experience but many people use the Ultra Grey.

I think neverminded on this hole. On the front case where I installed the rubber plug/seal since I have no balance shafts. I think that hole is the same hole that I made sure is plugged with a bolt. You said it wouldn't be a issue. That is the hole that was questioned but I think I answered my own question.

I see, you meant the hole for front (right) balance shaft. Yeah you don't use that hole anymore since you have no balance shafts.

So you build motors full time and have your own shop? Its kinda funny but when looking for certain help, I know who to look for on this forum. Like we got a engine guy, electrical, tranny, and many other experts . Im at a point in my build where I need help above the average guy on here. Im always finding good people and who know way more than me on this car

I ran a small garage locally but I quit. I now run a shop but only to sell/supply performance parts online. Of course I build 4g63 but I now do it only for my DSMs. That's like my hobby. disassemble, check, assemble and repeat and repeat... That's what I meant.

I been building these cars since 2011.

Get a factory service manual!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[jpmxrider489]

So I installed the motor in the car as well as my trans. I started the car up and was expecting to see high oil pressure on a cold start around 70 but it was only 45ish. Once the motor warmed up my oil pressure was around 35ish. I didn't see any immediate leaks but well see in a day or so when the car just sits there. The two pictures look wet. Could this be sweating? It doesn't appear to run.

The second issue or concern I have is a noise. My father says it could be the brand new oil pump. He says it sounds like fluid meshing with gears. To me, it sounds like maybe the bottom pulley is rubbing on the timing cover. So I was wondering if a new oil pump makes a noise or makes the car sound different. I did try taking a video but sound quality sucked.

 

[DSMPT]

it was only 45ish. Once the motor warmed up my oil pressure was around 35ish. I didn't see any immediate leaks but well see in a day or so when the car just sits there. The two pictures look wet. Could this be sweating? It doesn't appear to run.

So you don't have very low oil pressure at idle anymore?
At what RPM did you check the oil pressure? But only the "max" oil pressure seems to be low. This is what I told you above that probably the OFH is being ported too much.
Could you do a quick test if the max oil pressure would increase without the copper crush washer (the one in the pic below). Just remove that washer and tighten until the end and check the oil pressure. You need a crush washer there but this is just for a quick test. If the max oil pressure would increase without the crush washer, the OFH is the issue. You may be able to try to shim the oil pressure relief valve spring. Or to look for another unported OFH may be the best way.
The leak from the oil cooler bypass valve and oil pressure relief valve looks like just a sealing issue.

The second issue or concern I have is a noise. My father says it could be the brand new oil pump. He says it sounds like fluid meshing with gears. To me, it sounds like maybe the bottom pulley is rubbing on the timing cover. So I was wondering if a new oil pump makes a noise or makes the car sound different. I did try taking a video but sound quality sucked.

You should try without the timing cover and see if you would still have the noise. Hoe not from the oil pump.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[jpmxrider489]

So you don't have very low oil pressure at idle anymore?
At what RPM did you check the oil pressure? But only the "max" oil pressure seems to be low. This is what I told you above that probably the OFH is being ported too much.
Could you do a quick test if the max oil pressure would increase without the copper crush washer (the one in the pic below). Just remove that washer and tighten until the end and check the oil pressure. You need a crush washer there but this is just for a quick test. If the max oil pressure would increase without the crush washer, the OFH is the issue. You may be able to try to shim the oil pressure relief valve spring. Or to look for another unported OFH may be the best way.
The leak from the oil cooler bypass valve and oil pressure relief valve looks like just a sealing issue.


You should try without the timing cover and see if you would still have the noise. Hoe not from the oil pump.

so a crush washer and a small shim should increase pressure? And without the crush washer it should decrease? The reason I word it like that is because we talked about shimming it should increase the pressure if I read right. So if it decreases without it, then the ofh is ported to much. Then I could try and shim it untill I find another 90 ofh.

Im hoping they are sweating if thats a thing. They both are tight. The bypass valve doesn't get a washer correct?

So my pressure at idle which is 800-1050 is 45ish. When warm It was 25-35. To be honest, I was more concerned about the noise and wasn't paying attention to the pressure. I will double check this info I am telling you prior to the test you mentioned.

I absolutely hate taking my timing cover off. Its a once piece cover so I need to remove the driver motor mount, belts, and pulleys. Then put it all back on just to test . Ill work on this as well. I read the straight gears make noise. So I was hoping being new the helical gears would be the noise and just need broke in more.

Other question, Since my previous pump failed. When should I do the first oil change? I am assuming there may be fine shavings that I couldn't get out with air and brake clean. Im assuming this.

So is there harm in only having max pressure be lower than expected? I can rev the car up as well and see if it goes up 10psi per 1000 rpm.