oil leak on turbo feed line

[cmptrphreak]

Im leaking oil by the turbo oil feed line on the turbo but I just put brnad new crush washers on both sides. can It be be coming from the v clamp or anywhere else?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

it could be coming from where the fitting + SSfeedline fitting mate. I would suggest taking both pieces of and using some teflon tape in there.

 

[oldman]

it could be coming from where the fitting + SSfeedline fitting mate. I would suggest taking both pieces of and using some teflon tape in there.

Stock 14B feed line is a hard line with a banjo fitting.

cmptrphreak, it's not likely that it's coming from the V-clamp because that would mean that your turbo seals are leaking, for you to see wet oil from the V-clamp you should be blowing heavy blue smoke out of your exhaust. Did you check the surfaces of the banjo bolt, both sides of the banjo fitting as well as the turbo? Did you torque it down to spec to properly crush the crush washer?

 

[ddavisaf]

Sounds like a split banjo bolt to me.

 

[cmptrphreak]

hadnt checkd the surfaces before installation. I pretty much just torque'd till it snug plus some. What would be the proper torque if I may ask? The bolt is new the old snapped And I had screw the crakd piece out with a flathead. could that have messed something up? Is there a possibility the line itself is cracked? oh yeah And no smoke. thats why i was skeptical bout the v clamp.

 

[Newlogics]

hadnt checkd the surfaces before installation. I pretty much just torque'd till it snug plus some. What would be the proper torque if I may ask? The bolt is new the old snapped And I had screw the crakd piece out with a flathead. could that have messed something up? Is there a possibility the line itself is cracked? oh yeah And no smoke. thats why i was skeptical bout the v clamp.

First, wipe the area completely clean and dry, then start a car, rev it a bit if need be, and see where exactly the oil is coming from.
If you were extracting broken banjo bolt with a screwdriver, you might've put a deep scratch into washer mating surface and that would be your leaking spot.

Also, make sure the oil isn't making it's way down the feed line all the way from the top.

 

[oldman]

What would be the proper torque if I may ask?

20-25 ft.lbs.

The bolt is new the old snapped And I had screw the crakd piece out with a flathead. could that have messed something up? Is there a possibility the line itself is cracked?

Only you can answer these questions, go back and recheck.

 

[cmptrphreak]

If I did put a scratch into the mating surface is it fixable? Maybe I should just get a ss oil feed line so itll take it from the oil filter housing.

 

[Newlogics]

If I did put a scratch into the mating surface is it fixable? Maybe I should just get a ss oil feed line so itll take it from the oil filter housing.

SS line would is always a good idea.

If there is a really deep scrat on the mating surface, it can be lightly sanded down. The problem is that is't very hard to do without getting abrazives and shavings into the turbo. Sometimes just tightening of the banjo bolt soves it, but you must have a sensitive hand, to make sure you don't snap it.

 

[katz]

Check the threads on the valve cover where the banjo bolt screws into. One of the previous owner's of my car stripped it out and it was leaking real bad. I had to find a longer bolt with the same threads and drill out holes to make it a banjo bolt. Just a thought.

 

[Newlogics]

Check the threads on the valve cover where the banjo bolt screws into. One of the previous owner's of my car stripped it out and it was leaking real bad. I had to find a longer bolt with the same threads and drill out holes to make it a banjo bolt. Just a thought.

First of all, no oil lines go into the valve cover. I take it that you refer for feed line port on the head. The original thread starter has narrowed it down to the turbo side of the feedline.

 

[cmptrphreak]

I found out that the banjo bolt on the head cant be tightend it just keeps spinning. Dont know if the thread or the bolt. Gonna just get that ss line for the oil housing and try putting a plug in the head. Hopefully it works.

 

[S_Ranger]

More likely the thread.

 

[Newlogics]

Also, make sure the oil isn't making it's way down the feed line all the way from the top.

See.
That's exactly why I mentioned that.

 

[cmptrphreak]

If the threads are messed up in the head then can I just weld the hole up . I wont need it anymore if im going to move to the line to a different place. I could probably just thread it and put a bolt with a crush washer on it from a 2.0 n/t but why risk to leak again.

 

[Newlogics]

If the threads are messed up in the head then can I just weld the hole up . I wont need it anymore if im going to move to the line to a different place. I could probably just thread it and put a bolt with a crush washer on it from a 2.0 n/t but why risk to leak again.

welding the hole shut would be extremely difficult, since it would have to me completely free of oil in order to be welded up, and that is nearly impossible.

Retap it for a bigger bolt, and then use crush washer and a short bolt to close the hole.

Another thing you can try is using a bolt that's slightly longer then threaded part of the original banjo bolt. There is a chance that some threads further inside are still intact, and will proivde enough hold. The thread size is the same as mitsu. 14mm bolt by the way, so you shouldn't have a problem finding one.

 

[cmptrphreak]

What if I tried that steel weld stuff you can get at autozone. The starting threads are messed up. Im just scared that if I try putting a bigger bolt in there that I might just mess it up more.