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Oil jet block off procedure.

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BIGBLAZE79

15+ Year Contributor
382
3
Jan 10, 2006
Mesa, Arizona
Does anyone know how to install a plug into the oil jet holes on a 7Bolt?

I measured the holes in the main bearing journal and it is .254 Inches.
I purchased some 1/16 NPT stainless steel plugs, I measured them at .310 inches.

My question is do I drill (1/4 inch) and tap (1/16-27 npt) the bearing side or the cylinder side.My concern with the bearing side is distorting the block where the bearing rests. If it burs up the edges would it affect main bearing to crank oil clearance. The mains were aligned honed and I don't want to mess that up. The only problem with doing it from the cylinder side is you would need a very long drill bit.

Any suggestions or experience doing it?

FYI: Weisco/Eagle combo, stock crank.
 
I prefer a straight thread plug instead of an NPT; it will help reduce the risk of distortion. We use 1/4" allen head plugs and install them from the top side. Don't drill all the way through, you want the screw to bottom out so it tightens up. Also use red thread locker. Be sure to use a plug that's short enough so it doesn't protrude into the oil groove which could restrict oil flow.
 
I followed Bogus write up on blocking the squirters off and it worked perfect. I didn't get any distortion from doing it and that was confirmed by the machine shop when I had them measure the main bores to make sure.
 
He said his block had already been align honed which means he's got a substantial amount of money tied up in it.

Yeah but still If I we're gonna make a drag race motor, the first step would be to get a good condition stock non turbo 4G63 or 4G64/G4CS block, and start from there.

Just go to a place that sells bolts, if I'm not mistaken I think the thread size was
Metric 12mm X 1.25 pitch, I think 10mm long would suffice.
 
A block that's been checked and machined is light years ahead of any NT block he'd get from a junkyard. That is a step backwards.

And I think you're mistaken regarding the oil jets. THe squirters (like in a 6 bolt or Evo) are 12mm. The ones the OP is referring to are small jets in the main saddles on the block.
 
A block that's been checked and machined is light years ahead of any NT block he'd get from a junkyard. That is a step backwards.

And I think you're mistaken regarding the oil jets. THe squirters (like in a 6 bolt or Evo) are 12mm. The ones the OP is referring to are small jets in the main saddles on the block.

When did I say run a junkyard block that has not been machined, and checked out by a reputable shop [like your business]
as recall I said get it checked out, you must have misread what I meant here.

my main point was, next time you want to build a race motor, start with a foundation/block that has everything you want, or don't want before hand it saves time and money.

Sorry for the misinformation, I thought the op had a 6 bolt my bad.
 
You also could get a non turbo block from a junkyard, get it cleaned up and machined, and then forget about deleting oil jets all together.
[I don't mean to sound like a wise cracker or anything, I'm just posting up another good option for the op.]

Finding an N/A 7bolt 4g63 in the states is tough. They only put those in the EU 2g gs models in place of the 420a.
 
Joethefallen23 and Jackson Auto, Thank you for your help. Greatly appreciated!
 
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