The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Oil in head , Smokes , took it apart , Help!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GST98BIG16G

15+ Year Contributor
239
1
May 24, 2006
Chicago, Illinois
Ok make long story short :) I got this brand new fully built engine 4000-6000 miles ago , big16 turbo(for break in) , portwork(polish) on the head oversized valves ,cams , etc . je pistons , scat rods ,arps all around , well just too much to list :) When the first time i put the engine in the car it ran fine started up perfectly no smoking whatsoever. Then i took it out and i could get boost past 8lbs , so i figured ill check for boos leaks , VIOLA , i got a major one , fixed it . Ok this were talking about 1000-2000miles on the engine i thought is enough to break in and boosted it 20lbs , pulled great ! (as expected) Then day after i WOT at full bost all day , i started the car in the morning and it started smoking a little , well i thought no worries . Then it started smoking everytime i start it up , and if i drive 2-4 miles it goes away and no smoke under boost , well none that i can see. I thought might be valve stem seals , but the engine is brand new so impossible right? Then i did a compression test i got 170 i believe in all 4 cylinders. Yesterday i took all the goddies , exhaust mani and saw oil in the head... :mad: , i sent pictures to the guy that biult it , he is telling me that the studs are leaking , but why there is so much oil inside? Guys please help , hit me up , all opinions appreciated!!!!! I need to drive this soon!!!!
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I agree the studs are leaking but you also have other issues. Was this head checked for cracks (magna fluxed)? If not it may have been cracked fromt he get go. My guess is that it is cracked.
THe valve seals could be bad as well is it doing it on all four cylenders? Or just two? Also have you removed the intake side to see if you have any there?
Have you checked the intake piping for oil residue?

I am asking these to help diagnose your problem.
 
I agree the studs are leaking but you also have other issues. Was this head checked for cracks (magna fluxed)? If not it may have been cracked fromt he get go. My guess is that it is cracked.
THe valve seals could be bad as well is it doing it on all four cylenders? Or just two? Also have you removed the intake side to see if you have any there?
Have you checked the intake piping for oil residue?

I am asking these to help diagnose your problem.

This engine was done last season , it was in my garage for the whole winter.... Im not sure what he checked , but i think when you are biulding an engine everything should be done properly.... It was fine for almost 2000 miles and now it cracked? the car never overheated , i dont even have a thermostat in it. no just two , the first two are clean , there is a pic i believe. I did not rip apart the intake side..... Really dont want to do it , but i guess i have too :( Intake piping by the turbo? It had some oil in lower IC piping but not much , also some in the intake pipe....
 
It was fine for almost 2000 miles and now it cracked? the car never overheated , i dont even have a thermostat in it. no just two , the first two are clean , there is a pic i believe.

Why arent you running a thermostat? There is no benefit to this:notgood:
If you did the compression test with it in this condition, its probably the seals.
 
because the car was running above normal with the thermostat i had. Now just have to figure out where to get the seals from and the spring tool!!

that means you have another issue or had a bad thermostat
Half of my radiator is rotted away(doesnt leak and i have spare) and the car still doesnt run hot with the thermostat.
Not having a thermostat takes your car longer to warm up. Cold cylinders can cause the rings to scratch the bores. Also when its really hot out, the longer you drive the car/sit in traffic, the temp will gradually increase as its not regulated. just my $.02/experience
 
that means you have another issue or had a bad thermostat
Half of my radiator is rotted away(doesnt leak and i have spare) and the car still doesnt run hot with the thermostat.
Not having a thermostat takes your car longer to warm up. Cold cylinders can cause the rings to scratch the bores. Also when its really hot out, the longer you drive the car/sit in traffic, the temp will gradually increase as its not regulated. just my $.02/experience
i know , was planing to get 160 thermostat in the future :) My car always hated heat , with stock engine and this a new one too :) Well thats not my biggest concern right now , where is the best place to get valve stem seals?
 
i know , was planing to get 160 thermostat in the future :) My car always hated heat , with stock engine and this a new one too :) Well thats not my biggest concern right now , where is the best place to get valve stem seals?

A 160* Tstat may cause your car to run too cold and stay out of closed loop which is not good for gas mileage and fuel trims. Stick with the stock or maybe a 180*
The closed loop temperature switchpoints can be changed to a lower value(160) in a custom chip though which would allow trouble free use of a 160*
 
A 160* Tstat may cause your car to run too cold and stay out of closed loop which is not good for gas mileage and fuel trims. Stick with the stock or maybe a 180*
The closed loop temperature switchpoints can be changed to a lower value(160) in a custom chip though which would allow trouble free use of a 160*

it was tuned on DSMlink (ECMlink now they call it :D) at 20 psi i made 320to the wheels. no thermostat.....
 
it was tuned on DSMlink (ECMlink now they call it :D) at 20 psi i made 320to the wheels. no thermostat.....

Good numbers, but this post isnt about how great your car is currently running, is it?WTF
No thermostat doesnt mean your not going to make power, it causes other issues which i mentioned with some being long term(cylinder wear) and short term(overheating in traffic)
You can bandaid your problem if you want:shhh: Every car wouldnt come with them from the factory, if there wasnt a pretty good reason for it:cool:
 
Good numbers, but this post isnt about how great your car is currently running, is it?WTF
No thermostat doesnt mean your not going to make power, it causes other issues which i mentioned with some being long term(cylinder wear) and short term(overheating in traffic)
You can bandaid your problem if you want:shhh: Every car wouldnt come with them from the factory, if there wasnt a pretty good reason for it:cool:

Lol the car isnt that great :D I know your right , im not argueing about t-stat. FTW haha Have a nice day man , you just made mine :D Ill order a t-stat ASAP , and where do i order seals agai?
 
I think the shop that does my heads just uses Fel-Pro for the seals. If thats the case, i have nothing bad to say about them and they should be readily available at a parts store or in a kit.
If your a "purist" you could go to the Stealership but they are probably considerably more and not in stock.
As far a tool today, good luck!
I've seen some nice ones on ebay for 4g63 and one actually lets you do it on the car with compressed air.
Good luck!
 
+3 for valve seals... when they warm up they expand and stop leaking..then when the car sits, they shrink and the oil slides right down the valve stem past them and into the intake port
 
the guy that biult it , he is telling me that the studs are leaking
What studs? There aren't any that would leak oil to the in/ex ports or the combustion chamber.

When you say the engine was 'fully rebuilt' does that mean the head was too?? A hot tank and a port job isn't 'rebuilt'. If you're leaking that bad past the valves it's probably guides too, not just seals.

Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
 
What studs? There aren't any that would leak oil to the in/ex ports or the combustion chamber.

When you say the engine was 'fully rebuilt' does that mean the head was too?? A hot tank and a port job isn't 'rebuilt'. If you're leaking that bad past the valves it's probably guides too, not just seals.

Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:

For the head as follows ,arp's all around including studs,mls hg, bc272 cams , springs ,retainers , port , polish , 1mm oversized valves , new valveguides , seals basically everything.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top