oil drain vs blown turbo seals

[goldeninja20]

I have a small 16g. I have a 4an oil feed from head and 10an oil drain. my problem is my oil drain is making a hard bend. I am using 2 straight fittings ( one on turbo one on the oil pan). My turbo is blowing oil. Is there any signs to show which may be causing the problem?

 

[goldeninja20]

little update.... put the restrictor on. It appears to have made little to no difference. I can git boost if im at like 3000rpm and floor it, it wont smoke and i will hit 12psi. But i cant keep it floored, it will start to smoke. Should i just rebuild my turbo? and fix the drain at the same time?

 

[goldeninja20]

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This is before the 45. Still 2 straight fittings. With the restricter still blowing oil. The drain does look a little bent but what do you guys think? Turbo needs a rebuild?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Its possible its blown seals, last resort, pull it off and inspect it or have it rebuild by someone.

 

[goldeninja20]

Its possible its blown seals, last resort, pull it off and inspect it or have it rebuild by someone.

Now i dont get how you can "blow" a seal when they are like piston rings. I understand they can break, or maybe be realllly worn. If it was blowing oil because of the drain and i fixed it, would it stop or would it already have ruined the seal on the seals.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Ok well the seals on your turbo could be bad, simple as that, check for shaft play, again rule out one thing at a time.

 

[JusMX141]

Now i dont get how you can "blow" a seal when they are like piston rings.

Ever had low compression due to piston rings that don't seal?


Whenever you have too much pressure at the inlet or an inability to drain, oil bypasses the sealing ring by squeezing between the ring and the shaft as well as the ring and the housing. Once it passes between the ring and housing, it will burn and stick to the housing....ruining the smooth surface the ring needs in order to properly seal. So once the oil burns to the housing and makes the sealing surface rough and porous, you're screwed.

 

[NHerron]

That looks awfully like just a simple adapter plate...


Anyway, if you want to be 100% check out this link and note the oil pressure requirements.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/MHI_Oil_Specs.pdf
(Use this converter)
Pressure units converter | Convert to units and culinary measures.

I bought the black filter/restrictor from FP that they use for BB turbos and drilled out the restrictor until pressure was were I needed it to be. Ran the restrictor off the OFH to -4an line and had an AEM oil pressure gauge screwed it before oil entered the center section.

 

[goldeninja20]

Ever had low compression due to piston rings that don't seal?


Whenever you have too much pressure at the inlet or an inability to drain, oil bypasses the sealing ring by squeezing between the ring and the shaft as well as the ring and the housing. Once it passes between the ring and housing, it will burn and stick to the housing....ruining the smooth surface the ring needs in order to properly seal. So once the oil burns to the housing and makes the sealing surface rough and porous, you're screwed.

I see! So how do you confirm a good seal(besides cleaning) when rebuilding the turbo. (like honing cylinders to ensure a good piston ring seal seal).

 

[Calan]

Are you sure the burning oil is coming from the turbo?

Have you done a compression/leak-down test? Checked your crankcase pressure and PCV valve?

 

[JusMX141]

I see! So how do you confirm a good seal(besides cleaning) when rebuilding the turbo. (like honing cylinders to ensure a good piston ring seal seal).

Clean surfaces (housing and ring groove), a new sealing ring, and a functioning oil drain.

 

[goldeninja20]

Are you sure the burning oil is coming from the turbo?

Have you done a compression/leak-down test? Checked your crankcase pressure and PCV valve?

I have the check valve as my pcv. (works perfect). i actually just changed the other one that goes from the valve cover to intake. i got a bigger hose because the one i had was WAYY too small. Compression check will be done tommorrow. Only around 700 miles after rebuild. There shouldnt be a problem (it feels very strong out of boost, even compared to my friends 10.5:1 turbo 420a).

 

[Calan]

I have the check valve as my pcv. (works perfect). i actually just changed the other one that goes from the valve cover to intake. i got a bigger hose because the one i had was WAYY too small.

The other one what? Not another check valve... right?

When you went to the larger hose for the vent, did you also change the fitting on the VC? If you kept the tiny little stock nipple on the VC, the larger hose isn't doing anything for you.

 

[goldeninja20]

Nooo. only check valve i have is the one i have on the pcv. The other nipple i meant(the vent) is still stock, but i had 1/8 hose and now i have 3/8. Believe me the hose was way too small. I believe it may have made a difference but i wont know until tommorrow.

Good news. Driving to school and home i gave it a little in second. It is hardly smoking now. The vent must have been restricting way too much. It is a little bad still, im thinking it is because it hurt the turbo running it like that. I still have a rebuild kit on the way and will still be fixing the drain. Happy the problem is solved. Thanks everyone for the input. I hope this solves someone elses problem in the future.

 

[Calan]

The other nipple i meant(the vent) is still stock, but i had 1/8 hose and now i have 3/8. Believe me the hose was way too small.

I'm sure the larger hose helped if it was only 1/8" to begin with, but any sized single line that uses the stock vent tube is usually a restriction on a modified car. As soon as you start pushing more airflow at higher cylinder pressures (especially on a loose or old motor), you need better crankcase pressure relief.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html