Possibly blown turbo seals?

[Kprime911]

i just recently did a boost leak test over the weekend and i used a 5 gallon compressed air tank and i didnt use a air regulator and it shoots 125 psi's i didnt realise it until after i done it. Well when i did it my boost gauge didnt go over 2 psi so i thought maybe no damage done. all i saw was a leak coming from the biss screw which i fixed. How would i know if my turbo seals are blown?

thank you

 

[evolveddsm]

start your car, does it burn excessive ammounts of oil under boost?
does it even boost?

go drive your car and write back

 

[jeremy19984g63]

125psi? you probably blew something loss

 

[No_Skillz]

If your boost guage is working properly and you didn't boost over 2 psi, you're fine.

And if you only built 2 psi off of a 5gal compressor at 125 psi, you have massive boost leaks. Soapy water time.

 

[Kprime911]

car drives fine and i still get boost, i got a oil leak but that there before i did the boost leak test

 

[No_Skillz]

So then if nothing's wrong... ?

 

[kenamond]

Since you got 2psi, I doubt any of your major IC piping is disconnected.

Get a spray bottle, fill it with very soapy water (dish soap) and spray it on all of the following before your next test. You could do a few at a time for each test over several tests, too:

LICP couplers: both couplers and spray the whole tube down
UICP: both couplers - You'll have to expose your SMIC to see the outlet coupler on the IC, but you need to expose the IC to test it anyway
SMIC: spray the whole thing down
Hose to TB elbow: both couplers and spray the whole tube down
BOV flange
TB gaskets
BISS
Injector insulators (between injectors and head)
IM gasket

For the last two, you have to stick your head up over the fuel rail to spray and to see bubbles; use a flashlight. I have no idea of the best way to test for leaks on the lower side of the IM/Head gasket.

Pull your PCV out of the VC, pressurize, and see if air is coming out of the little copper tube that sticks out past the PCV threads into the VC. Replace with an OEM if it leaks air during the test (not Autozone/Carquest, they won't work). This can leak A LOT of air if the PCV is bad.

Some have said that there is valve overlap on a 2g, but I don't know about a 1g. If there is overlap, there are four small ranges of crank angle where both intake and exhaust valves are open a bit in one cylinder, so you'll leak right out the exhaust. If this is even possible on a 1g, you can disable the ignition and crank the motor a small amount to get away from these overlap crank angle ranges.

Then there are numerous vaccuum lines. And the TB shaft which opens the butterfly/throttle.

Since you have a MBC, you also want to cap your boost source line.

You can also divide and conquer; disconnect the tube from your TB elbow and pressure test at the TB elbow inlet. This eliminates all of the IC piping, IC, BOV, etc. and focuses on the TB, IM, injector insulators and PCV.

If your valve seals, valve seats, or rings are worn, you can leak there, too, and a dry and wet compression test maybe followed up with a leakdown test can zero in on what the problem is specifically.

 

[Kprime911]

alrighty thanks a lot