Resolved oh jeez, walking?

[93AWDDSM]

crazy great.... just put in my flywheel/ pressure plate and new clutch disc and this is what I saw. Please watch the video its about halfway through.

Is this crank walking?

 

[JusMX141]

Yup, shit's broke.

 

[93AWDDSM]

would it be able to drive still? before I pulled it apart to do the clutch/ transmission it was running fine. Should I just not boost it and drive sane.

 

[mickey]

Did you do the job right? It cant be crank walk if you have 6 bolt motor.

 

[horizontalkev]

That's scary :/ I'm not sure driving it Soft with or without getting on a hard would be the best idea but it's a lot better than driving hard. If I'm not mistaken it can also cause a spun bearing

 

[93AWDDSM]

it's a 1g 7bolt, and I really have no other option. This is the DD for a while, but before I pulled everything apart it ran fine, no obvious noises of spun bearings or anything, no knocking..

yes I did the job correctly. also pulled from the pulley side as well and same movement.

 

[JusMX141]

would it be able to drive still? before I pulled it apart to do the clutch/ transmission it was running fine. Should I just not boost it and drive sane.

I'd drop the pan now and put a new set of mains in....hopefully it hasn't damaged the crank yet. If so, only a new crank will fix your problem.

With new mains and use of a high-zinc racing oil, CI-4 diesel oil, or break-in additive in whatever oil you like to run you can definitely buy yourself some time until you can get an engine built.

Did you do the job right? It cant be crank walk if you have 6 bolt motor.

Please tell me you're joking.

 

[mickey]

Please tell me you're joking.

I really thought all 1g have 6 bolt motor but I guess Im wrong.

 

[JusMX141]

You're wrong...but that wasn't what I was hoping you were joking about. You may just want to bow out before it gets any worse.

 

[red_devil]

I really thought all 1g have 6 bolt motor but I guess Im wrong.

Lol hes not talking about the 6 bolt or 7 bolt mix up, hes talking about the crank walk comment.

 

[93AWDDSM]

confirmed crank walk.

this thread is resolved.

 

[mickey]

Lol hes not talking about the 6 bolt or 7 bolt mix up, hes talking about the crank walk comment.

rightttttttt.

 

[gofer]

If your motor has a crankshaft and a thrust bearing then it can suffer from crankwalk, it's not just a 7-bolt thing and its not just a DSM thing.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Disable the clutch pedal start switch also.

 

[93AWDDSM]

clutch pedal switch has been disconnected for 3 years. I feel as the old act 2100+ clutch disc contributed to this.

If your motor has a crankshaft and a thrust bearing then it can suffer from crankwalk, it's not just a 7-bolt thing and its not just a DSM thing.

if this can happen why make a thrust bearing for these in the first place? is it needed specifically? why not just all normal bearings?

with a new thrust bearing would it solve the play in/out?

 

[silvreclips]

When you press down that clutch pedal the pressure plate is trying to push the crank out the back of the engine. The thrust bearing takes this load and allows the crank to still turn freely as the engine rotates. So yes it is a must to have. Your thrust bearing is extremely worn thats where the play is coming from. If you catch it quick enough you can just replace the bearing and the play will be gone. If you let the motor eat through the whole bearing you have just ruined your crank and block

 

[mickey]

When you press down that clutch pedal the pressure plate is trying to push the crank out the back of the engine. The thrust bearing takes this load and allows the crank to still turn freely as the engine rotates. So yes it is a must to have. Your thrust bearing is extremely worn thats where the play is coming from. If you catch it quick enough you can just replace the bearing and the play will be gone. If you let the motor eat through the whole bearing you have just ruined your crank and block

Agree.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

clutch pedal switch has been disconnected for 3 years. I feel as the old act 2100+ clutch disc contributed to this.


with a new thrust bearing would it solve the play in/out?

doubt it was the clutch. My 2g had a old 2100 when I bought it. Still works fine at 26k after rebuilding the engine.

If the block and crank aren't damaged, yes a new bearing will fix it.

 

[93AWDDSM]

what set of bearings would be good for this? I'm basically trying to keep it stock very light mods nothing major

 

[hypergenesis]

what set of bearings would be good for this? I'm basically trying to keep it stock very light mods nothing major

Im currently doing a stock 6 bolt rebuild and plan to use ACL the prices aren't too bad and there is also Clevite. From what I have read from my own research it seems to be 2 of the main brands people use on our cars performance or not. Or you can always go OEM...

 

[93AWDDSM]

going to start looking for a 1g 7 bolt short block to build, hopefully mine will last till I have other one ready to drop in.

 

[hypergenesis]

going to start looking for a 1g 7 bolt short block to build, hopefully mine will last till I have other one ready to drop in.

Why not replace it with a 1g 6 bolt instead of a 7 bolt while your at it?

 

[93AWDDSM]

I'm in no need of a 6 bolt, this 7 bolt has held up well till now and most likely going to just build this one or get another 1g 7bolt block.

- I feel as the CW/thrust bearing damage was half to fully my fault.
the clutch was a 2100 act, had it in for 3 years but when i first got it in, tranny was notchy but it worked( the master rod was over adjusted to the point the bleeder valve wasn't doing its job) so the slave was not able to be pushed in. I'm guessing all the pressure from that and having a worn pedal assembly trying to compensate for that pretty much did it in...

 

[hypergenesis]

I'm in no need of a 6 bolt, this 7 bolt has held up well till now and most likely going to just build this one or get another 1g 7bolt block.

- I feel as the CW/thrust bearing damage was half to fully my fault.
the clutch was a 2100 act, had it in for 3 years but when i first got it in, tranny was notchy but it worked( the master rod was over adjusted to the point the bleeder valve wasn't doing its job) so the slave was not able to be pushed in. I'm guessing all the pressure from that and having a worn pedal assembly trying to compensate for that pretty much did it in...

Understandable because the same thing did in my 2g 7 bolt with my act 2100 and a light weight flywheel with 140k on the engine.

My only argument towards that is if your going to rebuild your block why not go more reliable even if its a stock build. With a 6 bolt you will be able to use the 6bolt rods which have been proven to be stronger than the 7 bolt rods time and time again. Its just a suggestion due to the fact that it would only require the difference of a short block core to build. Just my 2 cents, my 7 bolt crankwalked so I decided to build a 6 bolt and never look back.

And honestly its hard to blame yourself due to the huge domino effect that can occur with cars.

 

[93AWDDSM]

well, I honestly have not looked up what all would require for a 1g 6 bolt swap into my current 7 bolt.

would there be many things I would have to be switching to drop a 6bolt in?