What is this? OH NO! HELP! Please.

[kidmet]

So I was having an oil pressure problem so i pulled the oil pan. Saw this spring on the tranny side just hanging. Can't imagine that's good. What is it? does it have anything to do with my oil pressure problem (low)?

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[LandSpeed-DSM]

That looks like the spring from inside the rear main seal.

Was there oil in the bell housing? How do you know you had a low pressure issue, just the dummy light going off? Was your oil level in the sump low?

 

[BogusSVO]

I will agree with LS-D, the spring from inside the rear main seal.

That will have no effect on the oil pressure you see on the gauge.

Make a oil mess? yes

Allow a clutch to slip? yes

Effect oil pressure? No

 

[Bud92gsx]

I will agree with LSD[/Q


Thats what i was thinkin

 

[BogusSVO]

Bud, so that is the root cause of your mental issue??

 

[Bud92gsx]

At this point I think it may actually help make me normal.

 

[kidmet]

I will agree with LS-D, the spring from inside the rear main seal.

That will have no effect on the oil pressure you see on the gauge.

Make a oil mess? yes

Allow a clutch to slip? yes

Effect oil pressure? No

So I'll need to replace the rear main seal sounds like? Does that mean pulling the engine? Also, I assume I'll need to replace this spring, where would I find that? If I fix this and my oil pressure, I'll have her on the road. It's been on blocks for a year!

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Not a fun job to attempt in the car, thats for sure.

 

[kidmet]

Not a fun job to attempt in the car, thats for sure.

Not the answer I was hoping for.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Trans, converter and flexplate have to come off, and its been a while, but I want to say you can remove the aluminum housing over the seal and just pop a new guy in there. Then just button everything back up.

The trick will be getting the gearbox out on the ground if you don't have extra tall jackstands.

 

[crimsondragon]

You can do it with the engine in the car but the tranny, converter, and flexplate will need to be pulled. But since you have a 2g, the front and rear mounts are on the transmission, not the engine. You will need to support the engine somehow. You can put the pan back on and support it underneath. Once the drivetrain is out, you can see the bolts holding the seal housing. Pull that off, it's like five or six 6mm bolts. Drive the seal out and replace it with a new one, and grease it up (I use white lithium grease). Check the crankshaft where it rides and see if there's any damage. Slight scoring is normal. Clean it up if there's dirt or carbon buildup. Installation is reverse of removal.

 

[kidmet]

You can do it with the engine in the car but the tranny, converter, and flexplate will need to be pulled. But since you have a 2g, the front and rear mounts are on the transmission, not the engine. You will need to support the engine somehow. You can put the pan back on and support it underneath. Once the drivetrain is out, you can see the bolts holding the seal housing. Pull that off, it's like five or six 6mm bolts. Drive the seal out and replace it with a new one, and grease it up (I use white lithium grease). Check the crankshaft where it rides and see if there's any damage. Slight scoring is normal. Clean it up if there's dirt or carbon buildup. Installation is reverse of removal.

Searching for a new seal online.... Lots of sets to choose from. Anyone have a part number or recommendation?

You can do it with the engine in the car but the tranny, converter, and flexplate will need to be pulled. But since you have a 2g, the front and rear mounts are on the transmission, not the engine. You will need to support the engine somehow. You can put the pan back on and support it underneath. Once the drivetrain is out, you can see the bolts holding the seal housing. Pull that off, it's like five or six 6mm bolts. Drive the seal out and replace it with a new one, and grease it up (I use white lithium grease). Check the crankshaft where it rides and see if there's any damage. Slight scoring is normal. Clean it up if there's dirt or carbon buildup. Installation is reverse of removal.

Second quick question... I have a 95 manual (the car I'm working on is a 97 auto), can I swap the engines? I know there is some special flex plate needed if you're changing from manual to auto, will I need that kit or do I already have all the parts. This is curiosity, and I think I'm going to do the rear main in the next week on the car... Pretty excited it wasn't anything major.

 

[crimsondragon]

Searching for a new seal online.... Lots of sets to choose from. Anyone have a part number or recommendation?



Second quick question... I have a 95 manual (the car I'm working on is a 97 auto), can I swap the engines? I know there is some special flex plate needed if you're changing from manual to auto, will I need that kit or do I already have all the parts. This is curiosity, and I think I'm going to do the rear main in the next week on the car... Pretty excited it wasn't anything major.

FEL-PRO Part # BS40648
I always liked Fel-pro. $17 at Rockauto. Most expensive but it's less than $20 for a peace of mind.

Pilot bearing will need to be removed I believe from the manual (or is it the other way around?) But no special flexplate that I know of. If you're talking about the Kiggly 6 bolt flex plate adapter, no worries since they're both 7 bolts. You would also need to rig the 95/96 camshaft sensor to a 97+ wiring and swap ignition wires around. Couple that with the fact that 95/96 are not thrust washer engines, I really don't see the benefit, unless you're in a bind and need a running car.

 

[kidmet]

FEL-PRO Part # BS40648
I always liked Fel-pro. $17 at Rockauto. Most expensive but it's less than $20 for a peace of mind.

Pilot bearing will need to be removed I believe from the manual (or is it the other way around?) But no special flexplate that I know of. If you're talking about the Kiggly 6 bolt flex plate adapter, no worries since they're both 7 bolts. You would also need to rig the 95/96 camshaft sensor to a 97+ wiring and swap ignition wires around. Couple that with the fact that 95/96 are not thrust washer engines, I really don't see the benefit, unless you're in a bind and need a running car.

Got the Fel-pro. I have no prob spending $20 for piece of mind. Watch a video of removing the tranny, no happy about it, but I think I could do the rear main in a day. Once I get that done, I'll have to diagnos my old oil pressure prob. got a new filter housing along with an after market gauge (heard the OEM one can be unreliable). Also my wire for the OEM doesn't have the best integrity. Hoping maybe thats why it showed low (no) oil pressure.

 

[crimsondragon]

Got the Fel-pro. I have no prob spending $20 for piece of mind. Watch a video of removing the tranny, no happy about it, but I think I could do the rear main in a day. Once I get that done, I'll have to diagnos my old oil pressure prob. got a new filter housing along with an after market gauge (heard the OEM one can be unreliable). Also my wire for the OEM doesn't have the best integrity. Hoping maybe thats why it showed low (no) oil pressure.

It's a lot easier if you use a tranny jack. I think removing the crossmember would give you more room to work with as well. As for your oil pressure, I wouldn't rely on the stock gauge too much. At best, it's used for ballpark measurements ranging from "Is this gauge broken?" to shitty pressure to lots of pressure. I don't think a new filter housing is needed. If your low oil pressure light isn't on but the gauge shows 0 pressure, then something is defunct in the circuit. The switch and gauge sending unit are two separate circuits. You can check the sending unit for continuity and/or the gauge behind the cluster. No ohm specs for the sending unit. It's either dead or alive. The gauge is supposed to have 42 ohms +-2 ohms.