The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

OBX has new 4g64 manifold (looks similar to ERL Placement)

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Okay, it cracked again. Not the welds. All my welds are in tact. Just the piping right above where I welded. Guess it's time to save up for an ERL manifold. Sigh....

Oh well, it's served it's purpose at least and got me to the track last Sunday. But guess even supports aren't even enough to keep this thing together.

Doh! I think it's design flaw. I'm going to try one last ditch effort. Cutting off the WG extension pipe. Leaving about one .5" pointing straight up and welding the flange to it. Still moving at the moment so it will be a few weeks.
 
Well the piping is thin. Don't think it has anything to do with the weight of if or the wastegate. Think it's just the thin piping. Only thing I can think of to do there is to cut out that whole section and weld in a thicker pipe. Cause like I said, my pipe is cracking, not the weld. Aside from that, only thing I can think of to do is to trash it. Lol.
 
I wanted to wait and show you guys this but it seems like you guys are having problems and I might be one step ahead of you and because of that here it is ask all the questions you might have

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I don't think your mount is gonna make a difference. Look at the mount I made above (that I copied). The pipe certainly isn't moving. But it still cracked.
 
why not just tell us? is that a new pipe all together? Or is it just shortened and braced?
 
I think you might want to look at the picture again because It does not have the original wastegate pipe and the bracing from before because I had all that done and had to have it redone because of mis information in this thread about wastegate fittment with power steering does not work so my fabricator had double work

So he cut off the pipe and welded in stronger pipe and put a vband with a bend so it does not hit power steering
 
Yeah, I'm at work so looked in a hurry. Lol. Probably what I may try and do. But see if I can keep it in the same position.
 
This is what happened the first time I did not see any where in this thread that it would not work with power steering so i had to be the first after having all the work done as you can see from the picture it does not work with power steering


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
This is what happened the first time I did not see any where in this thread that it would not work with power steering so i had to be the first after having all the work done as you can see from the picture it does not work with power steering


You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You used a taller/larger WG than most too. More power to you though, thats a better gate by far then I use. If you had used a smaller "mini" WG it wouldnt have hit the PS or the motor mount.

I hope it works out for you. I like the idea of a flange resting right on top of the manifold, that way the entire manifold supports the weight of the WG instead of one pipe.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A vband style wastegate will not work at all because you have to use the adapter and if i added that in there it would look worse than the pic the only way you are using this manifold with adapter is no power steering or do what I had done

This the manifold that i bought from visionball and did not realize that power steering would not work

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


This post below is in rersponse to 99gst_racer super mod who deleted his comment

Easy fix. Cut off the 2-bolt flange and weld on a v-band flange. You could even shorten up the pre-wastegate tube a bit and fit the power steering pump again.

This is exactly what I did on my old OBX ramhorn manifold

Well look who has spoken it was not a easy fix you cannot just cut off the 38mm flange and weld a vband on because the vband diameter is bigger than the waste gate pipe the vband goes over the pipe i wish i had took a pic to show you that is why I had to have a new pipe welded on to fit the vband flange
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I "think" I might have just broken a rod. I'll have to check it out later to be sure. If so, I might be outta this thread for a bit for any new details, etc.
 
I no longer have access to a welder anymore. Dang it :( gonna get the ERL manifold but wondering if it places the turbo in the same position or not. Otherwise I have to fabricate a new exhaust.
 
I no longer have access to a welder anymore. Dang it :( gonna get the ERL manifold but wondering if it places the turbo in the same position or not. Otherwise I have to fabricate a new exhaust.

I may end up doing the same let us know how it fits. I did snag a BEP housing and was also thinking of going back to 2g mani. Would have more fan clearance anyway. Heres the hackjob weld. :p Also shows the crappo fan clearance. Used a piece of heat shielding from an ls1 manifold. It has ceramic material between the sheet metal and works very well. (ugly though)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
5 months shy of 3 years now and my manifold is still holding up. The car is daily driven. Put about 20k on it now.

Not sure if it's my sweet bubble gum welding "skillz" or what. :hmm:

I'm changing manifolds and housings soon so if anyone wants this thing cheap let me know.
:thumb:


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
These manifolds have some of the worst WG locations I have seen.
(Where the WG runner connects to the rest of the manifold)
The designer must not understand flow characteristics.
 
These manifolds have some of the worst WG locations I have seen.
(Where the WG runner connects to the rest of the manifold)
The designer must not understand flow characteristics.

I understand your point, but it is functional. Many times packaging requirements rule out over functionality. That being said I can regulate boost down to 8-9psi or run 30+. What else does it need to do? :confused:
 
I ended up scraping mine and ended up getting a Forced Performance manifold with an FP Dsm86 turbo. Firing it up soon. No more tubular manifolds for me. Cheap ones or expensive. Bought the manifold during the holidays and it only cost me like $150 I think (the turbo was a nice $2200 price tag though). Pretty good if you ask me and any bolt on turbo will bolt up to it of course. And surprisingly, I didn't have to dent my waterpipe at all with such a large turbo.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Looks great, I went the same route and picked up an HKS cast unit that has never been bolted on for $120 and a used BEP housing for the hx40 for 100$ :D Hoping I can squeeze the stock fans back in there.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top