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NWHTanK's Eclipse GST (AWD swap)

GST (AWD swap)

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I'm on attempt number 3 and watching a whole lot of you tube videos , it's kinda nice to have another hobby. Currently this will have two applications I can use with, the 3d printer and the mini plasma table. You can never stop learning even at 55.
Agreed - my brain seems to fight learning as I get older, but I'm still forcing it to learn.
 
Not the dash, more geared to hvac delete. And this small stuff will get me into the air guide stuff on the talon bumper with the fmic and rad mounting. I can't belive no one has made it ducts for the 2gb front bumper yet , only the 2gb eclipse.
 
Not the dash, more geared to hvac delete. And this small stuff will get me into the air guide stuff on the talon bumper with the fmic and rad mounting. I can't belive no one has made it ducts for the 2gb front bumper yet , only the 2gb eclipse.
The only issue I see with the ducting is the different FMIC fitments (and all the variation that comes along with installation). Making the ducting a little bit oversized on the edges could account for that though I suppose.
 
We 3d print A LOT of R&D pieces where i work and sometimes they are a challenge. Infill and support add a lot of time. We have found that the tree support is quickest and supportive and you only need a max of like 40% infill if you’re supporting weight. Otherwise, you can do like 20-30%.

Looking good!
 
We 3d print A LOT of R&D pieces where i work and sometimes they are a challenge. Infill and support add a lot of time. We have found that the tree support is quickest and supportive and you only need a max of like 40% infill if you’re supporting weight. Otherwise, you can do like 20-30%.

Looking good!
Yeah the first , v1 which was just a shaped plate with holes took a hour and a half, then add those tubes and supports, then close to 6 hrs to print. I'm using pla cf for testing, once I'm happy then a asa, abs, or nylon mixed with glass or carbon fiber.
 
That requires soooo much patience, it's crazy. And then the chance that it might not come out right.
That why I'm printing in pla at the moment. I print the individual sections of the part then test fit and modify and reprint. Now with adding the radio bezel area i noticed that I've ran in to another issue and that is all these layer lines because of the arcs while printing in flat orientation. So I'm going to have to put the part on the build table in a way to minimize the build layers while maintaining strength. I when I get past the build stage I'm going to try different types of plastics. First one will be a ABS plastic it holds up well in a cars interior, then I can use acetone vapors to smooth out the plastic and help smooth out the layer lines.

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