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No crank no start

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dannyd97gst

15+ Year Contributor
306
1
Mar 9, 2007
DURHAM, North_Carolina
I have a strange no start issue. Story goes. My car sits parked for long periods of time. On 8/31/13 I drove the car to work after a jump start, no problems. After work I jump started it again and installed a red top battery. Great car starts strong and runs great. Went out of town Saturday night and came back Monday afternoon 9/2/13. Car would not start, brand new battery was completely dead. Jump started new battery and drove around for a while to recharge. When I got back home I noticed the brake lights, except the third brake light, we're stuck on. I unplugged the brake light switch to keep from killing the battery. On Thursday I was going to drive the car to work, charge the battery, and replace or adjust the brake light switch. Car would not start or jump start, battery was dead again.
The facts now
Car will not crank and will not start even with a jump.
All lights interior and exterior come on.
All warning lights come on.
Fuel gauge stays on 1/2, which is accurate, even with ignition off.
Factory boost gauge goes up to 1/2 when key is on.
Factory radio works
In the fuse box under the dash I can hear a relay click when attempting to start.


What I have done so far
Unplugged the clutch safety switch, no change at all.
Swapped all relays in both fuse boxes with known good relays.
Removed ignition switch and manually turned it with a screw driver, no change.
All fuses check good.
Tried to roll start and pop the clutch, can hear the compression of the engine as the transmission turns it over but no attempt at all to start.

As best as I can tell the fuel pump doesn't even sound like it is coming on. I removed the back seat bottom in hopes of hearing it. I was by myself so I could not get any closer to the fuel pump than one could be from the driver seat. I believe that whatever is causing this must be ignition switch related , at least that is all I can think of. HELP
 
I am working on the car now. My problem seems to be the lack of "powering up" essentials to make the car start. Even without an alternator or starter I should be able to roll start the car. Got to go buy a fluke or the like as soon everything opens up here. I just hope the ECM isn't fried.
No, did not have the alternator tested. I had to have fried something jump starting it so many times....but what?
 
maybe a relay or fuse is fried, or on its way out.
maybe mpi relay.
is there any burnt electrical smell, that is a good indication if a relay is bad
so if it smells burned it could be fried or on its way out.
at the vary least a ohm meter and fsm will be the ultimate determining factor.
it could also be your ecm like you said crack it open and see if it smells burnt or is burnt.
 
Just reinstalled the ECM after opening it up. Everything "looked" good. No burning smell at all. Working on getting the MPI relay out and checking it. Found this thread on checking the MPI relay.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/263224-mfi-mpi-relay.html
Although my MPI relay looks nothing like this one, seems to be in the same location.

Having trouble posting pictures. My set up is the 2 separate relays and 2 separate connectors. I took the relays off of their mount, took the caps off so I could see them activate, and both relays clicked on when turning the ignition to start and clicked back off roughly 30 seconds after turning off the ignition. Now this occurred only at the MPI connector with the 3 red wires. The other connector has 3 black wires and in this connector there was no relay activation at all. Yes both of the MPI connectors have 4 wires each of varying color combinations, each connector has a primary color.
 
Check the coil for spark have you actually tested it for good compression numbers? How is your timing
ground cables. How are your plug wires, spark plugs fouled, cam angle sensor is it tested? Ignition transistor, you tested your coolant temp sensor youll be surprised at the things can go wrong when something else fails.
 
May have missed it, but have you tried jumping the starter manually? (Connect the signal right to the battery). If the starter starts spinning the motor, then try just having the key to the on position and jumping the starter. Had to do it to my friend's VDUB as we went around town looking for a new ignition switch
 
Check the coil for spark have you actually tested it for good compression numbers? How is your timing
ground cables. How are your plug wires, spark plugs fouled, cam angle sensor is it tested? Ignition transistor, you tested your coolant temp sensor youll be surprised at the things can go wrong when something else fails.
Coolant temp sensor would keep the engine from turning over during start up. I've seen some crazy stuff. If the ECT was bad would I be able to roll start the car? From what I've read about the ECT the car will at least try to start. I get nothing but one solid relay click in the dash fuse box and behind the radio when I turn the key. Checking the coolant temp sensor now.

Ok I feel like a total idiot. Clutch switch was the culprit. I thought I eliminated it by unplugging it, but nope. Now I will engineer a fix. Thanks to all. Weird how roll starting would not work too, confusing.
 
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