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newbie with 97 gsx problems

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99gsxkid

Probationary Member
16
0
Dec 5, 2011
bridgeport, New York
hey guys i just recenetly picked up this 97 gsx from a guy in pa after recently totalling my 3rd gen eclipse. the car has 69,000 miles on it and not a spec of rust anywhere. it has a big 16g, greddy fmic and bov (vented), a walbro 255 and a 3 inch exhaust from the turbo back with no cat. after getting the car back home im now having issues with it. i cannot get the car to pass inspection and im having an over boost problem. the check engine light wasnt on when i got the car because the bulb was removed and i diddnt think anything of it at the time because it diddnt light up. i found out that there was a few solenoids that were disconnected the fuel pressure, the wastegate and the egr solenoids have all been disconected, and i could really use some help in getting them hooked back up. also i had been experiancing fuel cut when accelerating hard over 4000 rpm so i went out and bought a boost gauge yesterday so i could watch how many lbs it was running, once i get over about 4-5k rpm the boost continues to climb to 20 lbs (which is where the gauge stops) where should i start in trying to fix this i dont want to damage the engine. im not new to mechanics but i am new to turbos. any help would be greatly appreciated (and sorry for such a long post)
 
Why isn't it passing inspection for 1, is it just because of emissions?
The bulb was most likely pulled because of removing the emissions solenoids.
The boosting is most likely due to the 16g hotside needing ported where the wastegate inlet is at. They are prone to boost creep.

I would also conduct a boost leak test.
 
sorry i diddnt clarify. yes it isnt passing because of the emissions. as for porting the turbo, would that be something you reccomend bringing it to someone for? ive ported exhaust on sleds before but like i say ive never really messed with a turbo


there is no mbc and as for recurculating the bov ive been looking for the attachment to do so but im having a hard time finding it without buying the whole bov.
 
heres a picture of the engine bay

sorry its not the greatest i can get a better one a little later today

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Yes i did buy the car from Rob, great guy. i will go out now and grab some better pics.

I wasnt sure exactly what you wanted to see so I got a few different pics

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You need to trace the vac hose that comes off the nipple on the wastegate (which is the gold colored thing on the compressor housing in the last pic there) make sure it's on there good and on wherever the other side is plumbed in. If they are hooked up well it is likely that your overboosting and the exhaust housing should be ported. As for the solenoids here's a diagram how they should be hooked up. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html You can probably get the solenoids at a local junkyard. Forced Performance does porting too if you ship it to them. And Before porting I'd also check and make sure that the wastegate actually is opening.
 
the vaccum line coming from the wastegate is routed over to a nipple on the intlet of the intercooler.. just after the j pipe connects to it. as for the solenoids i think most of them are there (not sure which one is which) there is one on the inside of the framerail below the air filter, one on the firewall behind the intake manifold and one to the drivers side of the manifold down a little ways.


i took some pictures of the solenoids and where they are so if you guys could possibly tell me which one is which i would appreciate it.


#1
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#2
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#3
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and theyre locations
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this is where the line coming from the wastegate is routed, is this a correct location for it?

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i really need to clean under the hood of this thing its a mess i just want to figure out all my issues first
 

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I have heard of people passing emissions with no cat but it would probably be easier to pass with one and maybe just get a 1g bov so you can recirculate it. Also wouldnt having no cat cause a cel and cause you to fail emissions?
 
Im planning on building a boost leak tester when i get paid this week so i can do a boost leak test. As for not having a cat, the rear o2 sensor is spaced back further on the exhaust and spaced out with sparkplug anti foulers and is not throwing a code. I will try this weekend to get all of the solenoids hooked up correctly. thankyou for the diagram, one question i do have though is my car dosent have the "p" port on the throttle body so do i just disregard the lines that come from there?
 
These are the codes I'm showing, P0443 evap purge valve circuit, P1105 fuel pressure up solenoid,
P1104 w/g solenoid, and P0403 egr control circuit.

I am aware of the fact the car should technically fail for there being no visible cat, but i know a few shops around the area that i know would let it slide for me.
 
I'm getting closer to being where i need to be. I went and visited the guy i purchased the car from and he gave me a few of the parts i needed and i am now down to only having one code left. i received a w/g solenoid and a fuel pressure solenoid from rob and hooked them up so those codes are now gone. The code i have left is for the egr circuit and that is because i need a solenoid so i can get it hooked up and i cant seem to find one in the junkyard. If anyone knows of where i could get one cheap it would be greatly appreciated.

I am also having a coolant leak now too, it is leaking from one of the coolant lines for the turbo (steel line) it rubbed through on the o2 housing if anyone knows what size this line is that would be appreciated also.
 
Contact Miller Import Parts for the solenoid. They are a vendor here on the site.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...i-eclipse-gst-lots-part-outs-free-shirts.html

As for the coolant leak, double check the leak area. I don't think it's the turbo coolant line because it shouldn't be rubbing o2 housing for a 16g. But if you do need one, you could again contact the place listed above and ask for stock 1g coolant lines, they will work otherwise buy them new from extremepsi, STM, MAP ect.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20763&cat=756&page=1
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20762&cat=756&page=1

You may also want some 10, 12, and 14mm crush washers.
 
Thanks! i will contact them for the solenoid. As for the coolant leak I'm pretty positive the line comes out of the turbo, the line comes up from the oil filter area of the car runs up behind the o2 housing then curves toward the passenger side of the car. there is a piece of rubber hose on either end of the line i believe the rubber hose on the pass side (top of the steel line thats leaking) curves 180 degrees and goes into the turbo. i will have to get some pictures tomorrow am so you can see what I'm trying to describe (it will make it much easier).
 
I know which one your talking about now (after looking at mine.) I posted links to #16 & 17, the one you need is #8 (goes to oil filter housing.) You'll need to find it at a junkyard, the classifieds, the vendor above, or a dealership. Looks like it can't be purchaced new from what I'm seeing.
 

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That is exactly what i need thanks! I will have to get ahold of miller import parts and see if they have one. I cant seem to find any 4g63s in any of the junkyards around me.

No i don't have a mcb but i was told if i didn't have one that it should limit it to the stock boost levels? if this isn't correct please correct me as i would like to know the correct answer on that subject.
 
No i don't have a mcb but i was told if i didn't have one that it should limit it to the stock boost levels? if this isn't correct please correct me as i would like to know the correct answer on that subject.

Not having an mbc does limit you to stock boost.
Google how an mbc works. Knowledge never hurts.
 
Okay thats what i thought. I googled it and i see how it works now, seems pretty simple actually.

I contacted miller parts and he said he has the coolant tube i need and the egr solenoid for 20 bucks shipped for both parts! so I'm gonna get those ordered up.

Now its on to my starting issue. The car tends to crank for a long period of time before it starts it takes quite a while if it sits over night. I believe its something fuel related because once it fires it stutters a little and once it builds pressure its perfectly fine (1-2 seconds) and it runs great afterwords its just when starting. I also noticed that i don't hear the fuel pump do its initial prime when the key is turned to the on position (the pump is loud i would definitely hear if it did, walbro 255) any ideas to what could be causing this?
 
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