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New setup, 16G

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MyEclipse5

20+ Year Contributor
2,737
1
Oct 2, 2002
Normal, Illinois
I know there are a TON of 16G setup threads. But I'm about to start another.

I just want to make sure im not missing anything.

Big 16G (ported, clipped, 43mm flapper)
FIC 650cc Inj
AFPR
Walbro 255
DSMLink V3
AEM UEGO
Boost Gauge
MBC
FMIC 2.25in piping
Greddy Type-S
Header (not ebay, but not sure of brand)
2.5" O2 w/dump
3" Downpipe (open) (I also have a 2.5turboback currently installed, but I think the 3" downpipe open would be more beneficial)

I think thats all?

Also the car hasn't been started in over a year. From what I've read I'll need to:
Change coolant
Change oil
Drain fuel(if I can, otherwise run it VERY easy to get all of the crappy fuel out)
Take out Fuse 20A(?) and try to start three or four times to get oil curculating

Anything I'm missing?

I've had the car, driven it in the past. Tranny went out, and then I got deployed. I'm coming home in August, and im swapping in a new tranny and decided to go with a 16G setup. It's not my DD either, I'll have a Jeep for that. So I'm not worried about how loud its going to be. Don't worry, I won't be venting my BOV.
 
If you have link and a GM maf you can vent all you want though. LOL

Don't forget to check the timing belt, balance shaft belt, spark plugs should be replaced, maybe seafoam the car?
 
Your list looks good, I would consider pulling the spark plugs and dropping a teaspoon of Mobil 1 synthetic down the holes. You can also prime the engine using Road Race Engineering's method so you don't have to pull the timing belt.

I would consider bleeding the brakes with new fluid, you'll need them with that new power!

Thank you for your service.
 
Why only 2.25 fmic piping? Most usually have 2.5 inch.
What MBC? I just got a Hallman Pro RX and like it so far.
For a 16g I would just stick with a cast manifold. They are fairly inexpensive and will work fine. I have an evoIII exhaust manifold, but ones like the FP cast manifold look and perform great.
I would stick with the regular flapper on the 16g and just port the housing good.
 
Your list looks good, I would consider pulling the spark plugs and dropping a teaspoon of Mobil 1 synthetic down the holes. You can also prime the engine using Road Race Engineering's method so you don't have to pull the timing belt.

I would consider bleeding the brakes with new fluid, you'll need them with that new power!

Thank you for your service.

Roger that. I will actually be redoing the brakes...they were squishy when I left, so I have to figure that out...###### need to be bled, LOL.

No prob. I'm just glad to be going home, in one piece. :)

Why only 2.25 fmic piping? Most usually have 2.5 inch.
What MBC? I just got a Hallman Pro RX and like it so far.
For a 16g I would just stick with a cast manifold. They are fairly inexpensive and will work fine. I have an evoIII exhaust manifold, but ones like the FP cast manifold look and perform great.
I would stick with the regular flapper on the 16g and just port the housing good.

Dunno, the FMIC came with the car. MBC is either homemade or TurboXS, I can't remember which one I kept and which one I sold.


Header is already bought, so is the flapper and port and everything.
 
Clipping a Big 16G turbine won't gain as much as clipping, say, a TD05H 20G that's running at or near the flow limit of a TD05H turbine. I think you'd lose more turbine efficiency than you would add in flow numbers on a 16G.

If you're counting on running higher boost levels (over 20psi), I'd steer clear of the 34mm flapper. The added surface area of the larger wastegate hole will make it more difficult for the actuator to hold the flapper shut at higher boost levels.
 
You should also consider adding head studs to your build since you'll quickly reach the limits of the stock head bolts. I also didn't see an AFPR on your list. With the fuel pump you want to run the AFPR will make tuning your car much easier and give you more consistency.
 
Clipping a Big 16G turbine won't gain as much as clipping, say, a TD05H 20G that's running at or near the flow limit of a TD05H turbine. I think you'd lose more turbine efficiency than you would add in flow numbers on a 16G.

If you're counting on running higher boost levels (over 20psi), I'd steer clear of the 34mm flapper. The added surface area of the larger wastegate hole will make it more difficult for the actuator to hold the flapper shut at higher boost levels.

Roger, but the turbo is setup that way already. I guess ill find out how good it holds when I start boosting that much, and if its not holding good, ill swap it out.

And yes I have the afpr.

I've heard people say you don't need different headstuds, but I'll deffinitly check into it when I start boosting 20ish.
 
I'm running 22psi on a 16g and had it at 24psi for a while and so far I have not had problems with the stock head bolts but I mentioned it because many people do and I certainly wouldn't go farther than I am at right now without upgrading. IMO knock at high boost is what destroys head gaskets and head bolts so just make sure you have a good tune and you can push the envelope for a bit, at least for a while. Then again head studs are cheap and fairly easy to install so why not.
 
Is a 2.5in exhaust going to be a problem?

Also do i need the UEGO at first? Or can I just tune off knock?

Lastly, is it hard to install injectors? Cause I might not get my 660s at first, and i could install the 550s I have. but if its a hassle, I'll just leave the stock ones in till I get my 660s
 
Injectors aren't easy your first time but after installing one set you can change the next in about 10 minutes.

Get a wideband. You really don't want to tune without it.

There isn't anything wrong with a 2.5" exhaust. You could run the stock exhaust if you wanted. I have no idea how much gain there is from 2.5" to 3".
 
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