The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support STM Tuned

New holset hx40 burning/leaking oil? *pics*

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

^^^ sounds good-- do you suggest I also put my oil pressure gauge inline with my turbo feed to read pressure going to the turbo vs pressure in the OFH... so that I can assure my pressure AFTER my restrictor?
 
yea, if the pressure after the restrictor is good enough for the engine then i'd leave it there.. if it's way too low for the holset at the feed line hook it up to the OFH direct without a restrictor to make sure it's good to the rest of the engine. i've read that they only "need" 55-60psi all the way to redline when studying what i did for my mods. but you should get the main pressure in check before starting with restrictors to start with though, you don't want to be running a restrictor so small that barely any oil is getting to the turbo to keep it low enough to be safe for a holset.

when i got my pressure down enuogh to regulate my restrictor made a 15-17psi change and it was low enough i decided not to run a restrictor at all, so i still keep my gauge in line with the feed line to the turbo, and if it drops it's close enough to the engine that i know to shut it down either way, and bestr case if that happens is just a busted oil feed line, but eithr way it will help avoid major engine or turbo damage
 
that's the same one i use, mine just was for m,y nitrous bottle gauge,. i just used it for the turbo instead and put an oil pressure gauge there instead :D
 
loco4G63 said:
Thanks for all the info guys. I will hit it up again for sure!

Ok guys I ported out my OFH and cut 1rap off the spring. now at warm idle I see like 13psi but still at WOT I am pegged out. While cruising I am seeing 55 psi and around 4500 rpm 75psi. How does this sound to you guys? My idle is where it needs to be but WOT is too much. Is my gauge garbage? I have an autometer oil pressure gauge and a elec. sending unit. I don't want to drop my OFH again or risk dropping my idle pressure anymore. I wonder if I should just run what I brung?
 
how large did you port the hole.i had similar pressures as you at the start of my holset install and got the pressures down to 25idle hot and ~65psi at redline when hot.

i cut 1.5 coils off and went super wide on the lower side of the porting of the hole (the very start of the opening of the valve is the only important part to port, making it wider up higher does nothing, you have to exapose as much of the top sealing ring on the piston in that valve as you can without hurting the seal when it's seated.. check my holset install thread (page 2) called the holset install (H1-3558x) **curretnly underway (thread name complete LOL )

if you didn't port it by that much then you can gain more pressure drop by furthering your work with a dremel
 
yea, but if you're feeding from the OFH the pressure shouldn't be that low at idle if it can rise as high as you posted under higher RPM's..what is your idle speed? ifn nothing else try raising your idle to 1000 RPM if you're afraid it will get too low if you port further or take more spring away.

My pressure stays consistant at idle no matter how much i port the valve and that how it should be because that valve ONLY OPENS when pressures get up around 70psi +, so low pressure at idle is due to excess flow elsewhere or a worn oil pump.
 
5. The minimum oil pressure, when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa [2.0 kgf/cm2, 30 lbf/in2] and pressures up
to 415 kPa [4.0 kgf/cm2, 60 lb/in2] are satisfactory. Under idling conditions the pressure should not fall below 70 kPa
[0.7 kgf/cm2. 10lbf/in2].
 
Well at like 750rpm it's 13 or so and at 1000rpm it's right at 25. I will cut a half rap off than and see how that goes. Just cruising at 60 in 5 th is right at 55psi
 
another half should be good, you just want to make sure you don't remove so much that you lose the little bit of pre-load the bolt puts on the spring (i did 1.5 coils easily, could probably have went to 2 but didn't need it) My pressure of 25 is at 1000 RPM, so if notihng else just raise your idle a little to keep pressure up. I keep mine at 900-1000 in general just because i don't have a compensation for AC in my ifle control so having a couple extra RPM gives the ECU time to save it fdrom stalling out when my compressor cycles
 
You know' i've tried to get at it without removing the OFH, but when i did i couldn't barely get a wrench or socket on the thing at all becuse of the timing cover, crnak pulley and oil pan mating areas being in the way. I could have ass get a 7/8th open end on it, but at that timemine was too tight to getfor how little grip i had on the bolt. I think you should open the porting up at least as far as i went with mine

here's a link
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...lset-install-h1-3558x-underway-currently.html

page 2 and 3 both have OFH porting pics..
 
Ok guys here is my OFH after being ported for a 3rd time. I also now have cut 1.5 coils off the OFH pressure relief spring. Tell me what you guys think because I have not installed it yet. I was able to move the piston up a little now that 1.5 coils have been cut.

After looking at yours again turboglenn I think I will open her up a bit more.
 

Attachments

  • OFH1.jpg
    OFH1.jpg
    26.1 KB · Views: 67
  • OFH2.jpg
    OFH2.jpg
    41.8 KB · Views: 75
I would widen up the bottom where the "top" of the piston is (opposite side fromthe spring) widening it in the middle really doesn't do anything, it's that few MM'swhere the valve just opens that need to be as wide as possible, look in my holset install thread and check mine out. It was perfect (still is) but it's better to go alittle wide from the start than to have to pull it many more timesto keep working it a td bit at a time. you want the bottom to halfway expose the topsealing ring on the piston (top thin chrome ring) and be as wide as possible.. you can get the bottom about as wide as you have the middle right now
 
Here is my latest attempt. I beat up the inside a little but tell me what you think. I think the inside should be ok but I know your more experienced. Thank you very much turboglenn for youyr help.
 

Attachments

  • OFH3.jpg
    OFH3.jpg
    51.3 KB · Views: 62
  • OFH4.jpg
    OFH4.jpg
    43.9 KB · Views: 67
YOu widened the wrong end, widen the side the spring does NOT go into.. or just opposite of what you just did.. Sorry to give ya bad news, and again I can just suggest looking at the pics of mine as i didn't touch anything but the area i'm talking about.. There's pics in both a thread solely asking for people to look at my porting in the turbo system tech as well as pics in my holset install thread.

You want to expose the chrome area below that middle dark ring with the hole in it in your pic.. Make sure to look at it frequently as you go to amkre sure you don't go too far and to see how much wider you can go (again no point in doing it any more times once it's on), I have about half the ring exposed and have it about as wide as the porting you did to the other end. Get that taken care of and you'll be ok i'm sure. Just check that the piston isn't hanging up in the hole and once it's all re-assembled that you can move it with a screwdriver (although the spring is stiff you will be able to tell if it's movable or hanging up)

if you can put a fine grit sanding drum down through where the piston/bolt go in and smooth that wall out on the inside i think you'll be just fine,as long as the piston isn't hanging up and can move freely there's nothing else that would be effected by you hitting the inside a little bit, but i wouldstill try to not damage it since it being smooth is what lets the piston movefreely
 
well I got half the sealing ring exposed but I will go wider to the right. The only part so far I have been touching is the bottom, opposite side of the spring. I will do better coach, just put me in the game : )

I have been using your pics as a template for sure though
 
Good to hear, as long as you take your time and get it as wide as you can without going too low you will not have any issues with pressure, especially after clipping the spring... WHen i did mine i changed the oil too and upon testing you could watch the gauge when revving the engine and see the valve open andthe pressure settle andstabilize because of it, before i would only slow down the climb of pressure but i would still get past 80 and on into the 100+psi range.
 
I "made" a .07 restrictor, and put my oil pressure gauge after it. My COLD IDLE oil pressure is now at ~30-35~. I ended up getting a FFOFH and doing this port mod and also clipped off a few coils from my spring. Looks like it works good so far! (only ran the car for a few minutes)
 
Ok since performing the OFH port I now have what sounds like rod knock. I only have 260+ miles and am very upset to put it lightly. I'm unsure what next but I have only driven the car around my garage 1 time and started it 2times for less than 5 minutes. I noticed my head was dry and so I put the old uncut spring in and now oil is making its way up top no problem but knocking sound still there.
 
I would normally agree with you however all I have done is monitor oil pressure which is why that last time I performed was the 5th time I removed the OFH just to get my OP in check. After that last go round no knock ever in the 260+ miles and all of a sudden knock upon first start up unless I am imagine things but I am not happy. I had no noises at all even with my OP at 75 psi cold start up and now at 50 cold start knockling on the door and I only drove th car after warm up around the garage just to see the differences so 3 times total with no real driving just quick little go rounds around my garage. The whole point for me was to get my OP down so I can drive my car safely while breaking in and now she is just broken. I performed the un-plug trick on each spark plug and the sound never went away and it gets louder with quick blips on the throttle. I am sure she is screwed.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top