2G New Engine Build Advice

[Craig13]

I recently got my 7 bolt back from a shop that was supposed to be building with basically no work being done. The engine is completely torn down and the block has been inspected and measured. I have decided to complete the build myself as I feel confident that I can do it, plus it's time to take the plunge and build my first motor. I am looking for a little guidance in a few areas that I am not the most familiar (mostly machining).

1. I will be going to larger pistons and reusing my stock rods (new bearings obviously). The guy that had it kept mentioning reconditioning the rods. What exactly is this process and what does it do?

2. What exactly needs to be done as far as balancing the rotating assembly? I know the pistons need to be equal weight and the crankshaft is balanced when it is produced, but is there anything I need to do with them altogether?

3. I have read about the balls in the crankshaft being removed. What is the benefit to doing this?

Thank you for any help! I am confident I can do this but moderately overwhelmed with assembling the rotating assembly. I appreciate any and all advice.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You are obviously new to engine rebuilds Craig but I am at your disposal if you need to be walked thru. Its alot of writing so let me get supper and I can PM you.
Its just nuts bolts gaskets and measurements.
Marty

 

[AWD-Tony]

I recently got my 7 bolt back from a shop that was supposed to be building with basically no work being done. The engine is completely torn down and the block has been inspected and measured. I have decided to complete the build myself as I feel confident that I can do it, plus it's time to take the plunge and build my first motor. I am looking for a little guidance in a few areas that I am not the most familiar (mostly machining).

1. I will be going to larger pistons and reusing my stock rods (new bearings obviously). The guy that had it kept mentioning reconditioning the rods. What exactly is this process and what does it do?

2. What exactly needs to be done as far as balancing the rotating assembly? I know the pistons need to be equal weight and the crankshaft is balanced when it is produced, but is there anything I need to do with them altogether?

3. I have read about the balls in the crankshaft being removed. What is the benefit to doing this?

Thank you for any help! I am confident I can do this but moderately overwhelmed with assembling the rotating assembly. I appreciate any and all advice.

Balancing rotating assembly simply mean you weigh each piston, rod, wrist pin for each cylinder. You want them all to weigh about the same. Remove material from piston or rod from specific areas so you don’t weaken them. You can YouTube this

There are oil passages in the crank which get filled with junk. They feel like hardened rubber but crumble when it comes out. I did read bogus’s thread about this but I used @1990TSIAWDTALON’s method of using break cleaner and compressed air. I’m sure it’ll be easier with the balls removed. From what I’ve read, you don’t grind down our cranks as they have a coating on them so only thing to do is get it polished as long as it’s in good condition.

I have no clue what reconditioned rods mean but I am not an engine builder. It’s all nuts and bolts and measuring clearances.

 

[motomattx]

Reconditioned rods means that they magnuflux them to check for cracks, resize the big end if it needs it, install bushings in the small end if they need it, and depending on the level of reconditioning them the shop can shot peen the rods, micro polish them, and of course install new upgraded fasteners.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Just in my experience, I am running a .020 cut crank in the 7 bolt that is running around here and its makin some JAM at 40+lbs boost.