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Advice on my build.

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alex99gst

20+ Year Contributor
1,339
24
Feb 10, 2003
Nashville, Tennessee
I have been reading and researching a lot more than normal over these past couple months as I plan on rebuilding my engine this summer. I know you guys see these threads a lot, but every situation is different. For starters, my goals are pretty basic. I just want an engine that can tolerate some abuse, maybe go mid 12's, and just be a quick street car. I am on a budget of roughly $2000 give or take $200 (LOL will probably change once I start). This includes machining costs and parts. I'm going to be building this engine with the help of my friend who has built a couple sr20's and hondas in the past.

Now here are some of my questions:

- Should I just stick with getting stock pistons on my 1g rods? That saves me $250 over the Wiescos.
- The previous owner said I had crower springs and Ti retainers. Would it be safer to just replace those?
- Should I get ACL race bearings? I have been advised against Clevite by some vendors.
- I am really unsure about what to get for the head, so any advise is appreciated. Should I just get a shop to clean it up and do a basic rebuild?



Here is my parts list so far for the bottom end, so feel free to add or give suggestions for my goals.

- ARP Head and Main Studs
- OEM Timing Belt Kit
- BS Eliminator
- ACL Bearings
- OEM Water Pump
- OEM Oil Pump
- Cometic HG
- Engine Gasket Set



Lastly, does anyone have any tips for removing the axles while the car is up on jackstands? In the Haynes manual it just says to remove the axle nut (like it's easy). Thanks guys.
 
You could always go with 2g pistons on 1g rods, but if you only want 12's then 1g pistons would get you there. I can't really say much for the rest, but if you want to remove the axles, have someone step on the brakes while you take a breaker bar + long pipe to break the axle nut loose. Only try and much pb blaster though.
 
i say, keep the springs and retainers in the head. complement it with a nice set of cams. as for pistons. some shops will charge out the ass to have 2g pistons fitted onto 1g rods. find out how much that is, it may be much more cost efficient if you just got a forged set. then the basic fuel mods matching to a turbo of your choice should get you to your mid 12's. oh and don't forget the clutch.
 
i say, keep the springs and retainers in the head. complement it with a nice set of cams. as for pistons. some shops will charge out the ass to have 2g pistons fitted onto 1g rods. find out how much that is, it may be much more cost efficient if you just got a forged set. then the basic fuel mods matching to a turbo of your choice should get you to your mid 12's. oh and don't forget the clutch.

Oops, I already have a spec stage 2 or 3 clutch. It came with the car :thumb: . I just need a flywheel as well. I have the picture of how to machine the rods. I talked to someone local and they said a shop charged $100 to machine the rods to fit the pistons. That doesn't sound like too bad of an idea since the pistons are the same price. Thanks guys, keep the advice coming please.
 
i say, keep the springs and retainers in the head. complement it with a nice set of cams. as for pistons. some shops will charge out the ass to have 2g pistons fitted onto 1g rods. find out how much that is, it may be much more cost efficient if you just got a forged set. then the basic fuel mods matching to a turbo of your choice should get you to your mid 12's. oh and don't forget the clutch.

It cost me just under $100 to have my 1g big rods fit to 2g pistons. :thumb:

A stock build will do just fine for daily 12 second passes. Tuning Is key.

But who likes stock? I say go with the wisecos on 1g big rods... you could net some serious hp on that set-up without overstressing the parts. Your not going to want to do this more then once (on build number 2 because I'm a dumbass ;) )
 
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