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Need help with front axles

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18Ace18

10+ Year Contributor
107
1
Apr 24, 2010
Hialeah/Miami, Florida
So im doing a 6 bolt swap, everythings ready except my 2 front axles
I managed to take them off few months ago.. but no idea how to put them back on.

Can someone post up a guide on how to put the axles back on?

2G-6-BOLT-AWD
 
Wha... what do you mean ' put them back on ' ? It's rather straight forward. Slide them into place - bolt the driver side axle to the back of the block. Make sure the snap-ring on the end of the axle that goes into the transmission latches when you 'pop' it into place.
 
I kind of got that part. I need to know what im supposed to be unboltting from the whole rotor assembly in order to get the axles in the hub.
 
You will need to get the spindle/hub pulled back far enough. You can take the tie rod end, ball joint, sway bar link and Shock mount off. But I have found just taking the 2 bolts out of the strut at the spindle, you can pull it out far enough to slide the axle in. Hope this helps. This for a 1g but hope the 2g isn't too different! :)
 
I remove the lower strut fork to lower control arm bolt, remove the brake caliper (to not stretch hose) than pop the upper ball joint loose. From there you can turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that you are working on and you will get more room to work with to get the axle in.

You will need to get the spindle/hub pulled back far enough. You can take the tie rod end, ball joint, sway bar link and Shock mount off. But I have found just taking the 2 bolts out of the strut at the spindle, you can pull it out far enough to slide the axle in. Hope this helps. This for a 1g but hope the 2g isn't too different! :)

The 2g is completely different.
 
I tried loosin up the upper bolt joint, but it does not come off no matter what I do. :confused:

Thanks for the link Keiya, im going to follow that and see were it gets me :thumb:
 
I tried loosin up the upper bolt joint, but it does not come off no matter what I do. :confused:

Thanks for the link Keiya, im going to follow that and see were it gets me :thumb:

You can try a pickle fork on the ball joint to break them loose, but you run the risk of ripping the boot on the ball joint. I've also heard of people putting a jack under the control arm and hitting the knuckle free with a hammer.

I personally have always used a pickle fork, but now I have to replace my upper ball joints, so maybe it wasn't such a great idea.
 
Take the nut loose and thread it almost all the way off. Leave it on so that you don't damage the threads. From there just smack the top of the spindle around the ball joint with a hammer, it will come loose right away.
 
Take the nut loose and thread it almost all the way off. Leave it on so that you don't damage the threads. From there just smack the top of the spindle around the ball joint with a hammer, it will come loose right away.

This sounds like the best way of doing it, and how I will do it from now on, thanks.

On a side note, how was getting the axles out? I'm about to do this and I'm so afraid they won't break loose after hearing all the horror stories of how hard it is to get them out of the knuckles.
 
A quicker, easier way is to unbolt the LCA and compression arm. This will allow the knuckle to swing out far enough to slide the CV shaft into the hub and into the trans.

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On a side note, how was getting the axles out? I'm about to do this and I'm so afraid they won't break loose after hearing all the horror stories of how hard it is to get them out of the knuckles.
Anti-sieze the hell out of the threads on the end of the shaft. That should prevent ALOT of future headache.
 
A quicker, easier way is to unbolt the LCA and compression arm. This will allow the knuckle to swing out far enough to slide the CV shaft into the hub and into the trans.

Anti-sieze the hell out of the threads on the end of the shaft. That should prevent ALOT of future headache.

This is my EXACT method as well. And yes, anti-sieze the shit out of it. It saves so much time in the future.
 
A quicker, easier way is to unbolt the LCA and compression arm. This will allow the knuckle to swing out far enough to slide the CV shaft into the hub and into the trans.

Anti-sieze the hell out of the threads on the end of the shaft. That should prevent ALOT of future headache.

This is my EXACT method as well. And yes, anti-sieze the shit out of it. It saves so much time in the future.


Thanks guys, I will definitely do that.
 
If you have any issues removing the axle itself from the trans - you can very carefully use a flathead or a pointed flat-edge to slightly pry between it and the transmission while you apply the force to remove the axle. Don't get over-zealous as you'll end up punching something.
 
If you have any issues removing the axle itself from the trans - you can very carefully use a flathead or a pointed flat-edge to slightly pry between it and the transmission while you apply the force to remove the axle. Don't get over-zealous as you'll end up punching something.

I got them to pop out pretty easily, but I removed the engine and trans (damn flexplate again!) and just worked them free while I was pulling it out.

And yes I punched alot of things trying to wiggle them out before I just said screw it and dealt with it as I was pulling the engine and tranny. Ended up breaking the passenger side joint because i forgot it was still in the trans a little as I yanked the engine up, but the boots were ripped and my main reason for working on the car was to replace the axles and then realized the flexplate had gone again, so I wasn't to worried about ruining the axles, and the trans and seals looked fine.

Edit: sorry for the thread hijack, just been real stressed out over these axles likely being frozen in the hubs.
 
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