need help understanding all this lingo

[greg90gs]

ok i am new to the site and this is my first dsm i came from the honda scene and i understand what ov means and tb and ic ut all the other stuff i am reading about on this site i dont understand which is a big problem because i am doing my homework on the stock 1g turbo system because mine is spooling way to soon and hitting like 14 psi at 3500rpm causing fuel cut, and lowing hot air i am trying to drop the boost ut thats still not helping so if some one could tell me what all this lingo on here is that would help alot thanks and looking forward to the guidance

 

[snowborder714]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...1093-dsm-glossary-acronyms-abbreviations.html

 

[99gst_racer]

Also, read this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/186971-what-fuel-cut.html

Your fuel cut issue has nothing to do with turbo spooling quickly.

 

[greg90gs]

WTFWTFwow hope i remember all that

 

[greg90gs]

ok i just read that on fuel cut so y reading that running way to much boost on a stock system would cause fuel cut, because my whole system is stock except for a turbo timer, and a manuel boost control valve, and last night i tore apart the ic pipes and cleaned out the oil and cleaned the utterfly and throttle body and also took the lower honeycomb out of the maf sensor, and once i was done and test drove it the turbo has been spooling way to soon so i should just turn down the boost.

 

[chico904]

What do you mean spooling way too soon? You said that you are hitting 14 psi at 3500 rpms which in my opinion is not soon enough. You should be hitting that before 3000 at least.

 

[greg90gs]

when i first got the car on sat. yes as in the other day the turbo was spooling at 5500 and it felt great and was quick then i upd the boost thinking that it wasnt spooling enough soon enough now i punch the throttle and it shoots to 14 psi at 3500 and it feels like it just stops accelerating all together when befor it didnt do that i kept accelerating through the power band and deffinately through the spool, idk i need help this is my first dsm

 

[chico904]

when i first got the car on sat. yes as in the other day the turbo was spooling at 5500 and it felt great and was quick then i upd the boost thinking that it wasnt spooling enough soon enough now i punch the throttle and it shoots to 14 psi at 3500 and it feels like it just stops accelerating all together when befor it didnt do that i kept accelerating through the power band and deffinately through the spool, idk i need help this is my first dsm

I'm still confused over this whole spooling too quick, especially if somehow you were hitting full boost at as late as 5500 rpms and thinking that felt great. That aside, as I said before, you should be hitting full boost well before 3500 rpms on your turbo. You have boost leaks. Do a boost leak test and report back. IC Pipe Tester

 

[greg90gs]

ok i will check tonight for leaks

 

[the_mork]

Also more than likely 13-14psi is completely safe as a boost pressure. Stock is right around those levels so the problem really isn't your turbo or the way that it spools. BTW what are you reading those boost numbers from? I hope it is an aftermarket gauge and you aren't just guessing off of the stock gauge.

 

[greyspyder117]

Just have to add that Fuel cut link +1 thats a good link everyone should bookmark that one

 

[knochgoon24]

...and also took the lower honeycomb out of the maf sensor.

And what was the reasoning behind this? Do you have anything to tune with and compensate for the altered air flow reading? Unless you are maxing out the 1g MAF, you really shouldn't do this. Even then, it only gives you a little more head room with a correct tune.

1. Reinstall lower honeycomb
2. Boost leak test
3. Buy an aftermarket boost gauge (if you don't have one)

 

[dustinmp3]

ck all your hoses it sounds like you have a boost leak or you turned the boost up higher than you think.
on most aftermarket boost controllers 1/2 turn is one pound of boost in general,
and if you are reading off a stock gauge then they are off from 1-3 psi
if it didn't do this till you turned it up then i would make sure that you didn't turn it up to high and are you running an aftermarket bov if it is stock and isn't crushed then it sould only hit 7 psi 8 max because the 1gs come with a 7 psi spring and the controller isn't doing anything.

 

[knochgoon24]

on most aftermarket boost controllers 1/2 turn is one pound of boost in general,
and if you are reading off a stock gauge then they are off from 1-3 psi

Take this with a grain of salt...

 

[MrBoxx]

ck all your hoses it sounds like you have a boost leak or you turned the boost up higher than you think.
on most aftermarket boost controllers 1/2 turn is one pound of boost in general,
and if you are reading off a stock gauge then they are off from 1-3 psi
if it didn't do this till you turned it up then i would make sure that you didn't turn it up to high and are you running an aftermarket bov if it is stock and isn't crushed then it sould only hit 7 psi 8 max because the 1gs come with a 7 psi spring and the controller isn't doing anything.

The stock boost gauges are completely useless, not "maybe off by 1-3psi." Hell, the 2g boost gauge doesn't even have numbers; it just has lines.

All aftermarket boost controllers vary in how much a turn will adjust pressure, especially when you take into consideration the difference between a bleeder MBC and a ball/spring MBC. Also, in the case of the TurboXS HP boost controller, it has TWO adjustment screws, they both turn opposite of the majority of other MBC's, AND they adjust pressure at two different rates.

The BOV has nothing to do with the boost controller working or not working. The MBC shouldn't be tapped into the BOV's vac line. Unless the BOV is leaking at a point below your set pressure, the spring pressure doesn't have any variance on boost pressure. Stock 1g uncrushed BOV's hold upwards of 18psi without a problem.

Everyone, please remember to use proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation in your posts. It really does help us understand your questions and answers a lot better.

OP: Do a boost leak test, like everyone has said. Make sure your blow off valve is recirculated. Make sure your spark plugs are NGK BPR6ES and that they are gapped to .028". Get a datalogger as soon as you can. Read VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions and the tech articles here. Post up a picture of your engine so we can tell you if everything looks like it's setup okay. Wear sunscreen.

 

[the_mork]

I think this needs to be posted.

Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

Consider this path the gospel and do not deviate from it one inch until you know it well enough that you can explain why each part was chosen in its order and how it works with everything else. When you can explain that without searching or even thinking then you can deviate from that plan (if you can explain why the deviation is better).

This isn't meant to be a rub, you just said that you are coming from a Honda. These cars are very different and I can tell you that I know I would be lost trying to make a Honda go fast without a lot of research. Turbo cars have numerous places where coolant and oil can mix, air from one component needs to be separate from another when under boost and free flowing under vacuum, fuel pressure is only consistent with boost, there isn't a damn thing that is better because it is JDM, and the engine bays eat 10 and 12 mm sockets like candy.

The saddest thing we see on a regular basis is people doing what works on other platforms coming in here with cars that are broken or breaking and no way to track down what is really wrong without diving in and getting greasy. We're all just trying to save you from a lot of troubleshooting down the road later.

There, I've said what I came to say and I'll shut up now until you ask some more questions.

Good luck.


Edit: Chico904, I didn't know this until I was test driving one for my girlfriend but 1g stock boost gauges have numbers on them. They are just as meaningless as the 2g gauges though because they are based on a load calculation which means nothing once engine VE has changed. Not that they are accurate stock anyway.

 

[chico904]

Edit: Chico904, I didn't know this until I was test driving one for my girlfriend but 1g stock boost gauges have numbers on them. They are just as meaningless as the 2g gauges though because they are based on a load calculation which means nothing once engine VE has changed. Not that they are accurate stock anyway.

I did not know that. I just thought all dsm's came with worthless boost gauges.

 

[greg90gs]

yes the 1g boost gauge has numbers, yes i know it probably is not accurate, i have a new aftermarket coming i have only had this car for four days and right now i am replacing thermostat, upper rad hose, brakes, and just replaced struts, just cleaned throttle body and butterfly, took out honey comb cause it was useless and didnt do anything so i will leave it out i lowered the boost and it is fine now it is still a little high but way better she is spooling right away and hittng full boost at 5500 when im shifting at 6500, and yes the bov is stock, i was under the understanding that shouldnt be replaced untill i am intentianly raising boost with hp upgrades, and no it is not crushed if im going to do something i am going to do it right i like this car too much to "rig" anything i have spent the last four days unrigging everything the guy before had done, but i will be putting the new boost gauge in soon and then my buddy is going to look at it he has had a couple dsm's and says he knows whats up, and yes i think i might have a leak i am already looking into it because there can only be one place it would be coming from considering i just had everything but the ic out of it so i will start there

and if any of this sounds wrong to anyone here please tell me, i was told that i only want to run 10 psi cause the other night i raced a 3000gt vr4 and i was pushing 14 psi at max boost and it was acting like it wasnt accelerating once it hit max boost which was like 5500 rpm so thats why im trying to get to the bottom of this and yes i lost but only a half a car and and my stuff was messed up and i dont think it was a vr4 he said it was but anyway i just found a greddy bov, and solid ic piping so should i get it or wait on the bov i have heard 2 different things

and what is dsmlink

 

[snowborder714]

Try searching on here or using a search engine. You can find pretty much anything.

ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[the_mork]

Put the honeycomb back in it is important. Do an actual boost leak test it will leak in places you wouldn't think possible. Turn your boost controller all the way down or remove it until you get your new gauge installed the stock gauge doesn't tell you anything, you would be better off asking your dog what psi you are at, it would be more accurate.

 

[chico904]

yes the 1g boost gauge has numbers, yes i know it probably is not accurate, i have a new aftermarket coming i have only had this car for four days and right now i am replacing thermostat, upper rad hose, brakes, and just replaced struts, just cleaned throttle body and butterfly, took out honey comb cause it was useless and didnt do anything so i will leave it out i lowered the boost and it is fine now it is still a little high but way better she is spooling right away and hittng full boost at 5500 when im shifting at 6500, and yes the bov is stock, i was under the understanding that shouldnt be replaced untill i am intentianly raising boost with hp upgrades, and no it is not crushed if im going to do something i am going to do it right i like this car too much to "rig" anything i have spent the last four days unrigging everything the guy before had done, but i will be putting the new boost gauge in soon and then my buddy is going to look at it he has had a couple dsm's and says he knows whats up, and yes i think i might have a leak i am already looking into it because there can only be one place it would be coming from considering i just had everything but the ic out of it so i will start there

and if any of this sounds wrong to anyone here please tell me, i was told that i only want to run 10 psi cause the other night i raced a 3000gt vr4 and i was pushing 14 psi at max boost and it was acting like it wasnt accelerating once it hit max boost which was like 5500 rpm so thats why im trying to get to the bottom of this and yes i lost but only a half a car and and my stuff was messed up and i dont think it was a vr4 he said it was but anyway i just found a greddy bov, and solid ic piping so should i get it or wait on the bov i have heard 2 different things

and what is dsmlink

WOW. Ok, first you MUST learn how to use punctuation. That is the longest run-on sentence I have ever seen on here.
1. As stated, put the honeycombs back in.
2.I do not know how many more different times/ways I can say this. HITTING FULL BOOST AT 5500 RPMS IS NOT OK. That is WAYYYY too late on the stock turbo. You must have some serious, serious boost /exhaust leaks. Use the link I provided, and do a BLT.
3. Crushing your 1G BOV is not considering "rigging" anything. It is a proven mod as well as the dodge garage mod on here. You however do not need to do this yet.
4. Don't talk about racing on this board, unless it is on a track whick I'm guessing it was not.
5. You should not be racing anything until you get your problems fixed with your car.
6. Do not get the greddy BOV, your stock BOV is more than enough for your car, and is the BOV of choice for many tuners on this board.
7. Disconnect that MBC. You have no idea how much boost you are truely running without a guage.
8. Once again. Do a BLT

 

[cardot33]

Edit: Chico904, I didn't know this until I was test driving one for my girlfriend but 1g stock boost gauges have numbers on them. They are just as meaningless as the 2g gauges though because they are based on a load calculation which means nothing once engine VE has changed. Not that they are accurate stock anyway.

are you serious? that sounds COMPLETELY useless. whatever happened to just knowing how much pressure is in the intake?

 

[JStrateger]

When I first joined these forums, (Well, Nicoclub actually) all the terms were overwhelming. I had no idea what the abbreviations all meant but naturally they just come to you. I never used a guide but once I started working on my car, searching about what I was doing, everything began to make sense. Except when people use the term BLT, I still get that confused with a bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich and go get one. (Damn, well now I'm full but my car still runs like shit...)

Oh yeah, welcome to the dark side. You'll soon be corrupted by power, the power your Honda could never create, Mwhahaha!

 

[greg90gs]

ok how do i recirculate the bov, and ya sorry if my grammer is off like i said i have had this car for 4 days and still trying to fix everything the other guy did to it so im totally lost with just about everything everyone has said dont get me wrong i thank you all ut i just need to find someone in my area who can look at it, because i have read on this site to do one thing, then everyone post to not do the same thing another thread said to do and im not trying to step on toes or cause problems but so far i have read it a couple times so i will take everyones advice and repost when i find out what is going on because all of these mixed reply post is making it worse

 

[greg90gs]

ok and i just now read another thread were it sounded like the guy had the same problem as me the only difference is he has a 20a turbo and everyone told him to turn down the boost, and check for leaks