need help, major issues

[cabot2g]

My son just bought a 99 gst and on his way home with the car it went out on him... its blown. for what ever reason it had extreme cank case pressure. it blew a coolent line, the balance shaft plug, and the head gasket.

Im not a noob as far as engines but I am when it comes to DSM and turbos. Who ever had the car before done a poor job under the hood to say the least. Im unsure what all has been done and what hasnt been done. Its such a hack job I dont trust anything thats under the hood right now. I found two lag bolts in the exaust manifold where the threads was stripped. A board was used as a bracket for the intercooler, there are wires added and switches I havent even started to trace back. Billet pullies and adjustable timing sprokets are installed. A td05-16g turbo is installed, bov doesnt vent to the intake.

I just decided we would be better with a fresh block. So we got a fresh block on the stand build to OEM waiting to go back in but I want to make sure I have the mods figgured out and what we will keep or rework.

attached are a few pics...

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[92AWDHX40]

I would pull it apart and start from scratch, to eliminate any second guessing.

 

[cabot2g]

also the IC piping doesnt look to be right. It runs over the exhaust which defeats the purpose of having a IC...

Is there any way of knowing if the ECU has been flashed? I do know its the black plastic factory box, also has factory injectors.

It does have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator but Im not sure how well this style works. Im not looking for anything crazy in this build, plan to run just 10-12 psi on this block.

Sorry for a lot of questions, I am using the search and learning as much as I can in a very short amount of time. This is his daily driver so I would like to have him back up and going in a month or two at the longest. I only get to work on it in the afterniins and weekends.

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[ENICKB]

You need silicone couplers. Car doesnt look too bad. Rebuild isnt cheap, but its not outrageous either if your motivated. But this has happened to a car of mine, the oil port passage in the oil filter housing was blocked with some death-poop. It made my oilpan gasket fail, lost all my oil, and made my crank commit suicide. Describe how it died and we can help diagnose. But to me, maybe your son was just having a lil too much fun with his untuned new toy, and he blew the headgasket... Thats not too bad. Just run a leak down test to check the pistons, replug the balance shaft, pull timing components, shave head and replace timing belt and head gasket, go with ARP bolts... But if you have the time or money, you may as well pull the motor and rebuild. And check sheptrans.com for transmission rebuild. Report back with compression test and leakdown results.

 

[cabot2g]

Actually already have a fresh rebuild on the stand... more less concerned about everything else under the hood. want to make sure the aftermarket stuff is up to par.

Will keep the blown motor for a possible future build. Not a noob to building engines, just DSM's and tuning of fuel injected systems. Trying to learn the ins and outs of the DSM.

Its possible he was "enjoying" the new ride. I use to do the same thing

 

[etay89]

also the IC piping doesnt look to be right. It runs over the exhaust which defeats the purpose of having a IC...

Is there any way of knowing if the ECU has been flashed? I do know its the black plastic factory box, also has factory injectors.

It does have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator but Im not sure how well this style works. Im not looking for anything crazy in this build, plan to run just 10-12 psi on this block.

Some IC piping kits run that way. You said it has a 16g turbo? From the looks of the pics, the core itself has inlet and outlet on opposite sides, so the way it should route is a j-pipe off the turbo then it goes underneath the turbo itself to the inlet under the driver side headlight.

To my knowledge, there's no indefinite way to tell until you pull the ROM off. I'm not sure if there's a way to flash it back to stock without having the reflash connector/tactrix 2.0/ecuflash.

If you're saying the car has an aftermarket FPR, if it's Aeromotive or Fuelab, I'd keep it. If you're dead set on returning it to stock, atleast you have something to sell.

 

[ENICKB]

Check the DSM first procedures on this site. For instance, make a boost leak tester if you havnt already. Make sure there is a way to tune the car (wideband o2 sensor, dsmlink/safc, silicone couplers with tclamps). Make sure your alternator bolt hole is not ovalled, and if so drill out to 3/8 inch and get a bolt for it. remove balance shafts. Make sure you have a new fuel pump. etc

 

[WES_393]

I would get rid of the billet pulleys, rework the IC piping, get rid of the wood or any shady wiring (just asking for a fire), and eliminate the balance shafts. Other than that just make sure everything is OEM or has a good reputation. For example, if those are unknown brand cam gears, I would replace them with OEM just to be safe. If they are GReddy or something similar they should be okay. This especially goes for things such as the oil pump, water pump, etc. I would definitely recomend replacing all the timing belt components with true Mitsubishi components. Maybe an aftermarket belt such as Gates or HKS, just no zone/rileys/advanced parts.

If the ECU is a black box it's most likely flashable. If you plan to run only 10-12psi then tuning and supporting mods won't really be on your priority list. Any higher and you should consider upgrading the fuel pump, injectors, tuning, AFPR, etc. But I'm sure your goal for now is getting it running, safe, and reliable so things like that can wait. So just remember: When in doubt, go OEM.

 

[etay89]

If the ECU is a black box it's most likely flashable. If you plan to run only 10-12psi then tuning and supporting mods won't really be on your priority list. Any higher and you should consider upgrading the fuel pump, injectors, tuning, AFPR, etc. But I'm sure your goal for now is getting it running, safe, and reliable so things like that can wait. So just remember: When in doubt, go OEM.

Tuning is one of the most important things you can do to any car, but say for example that whenever the previous owner had the car, it was flashed for 750cc injectors and then he throws the stock 450's, the car is gonna run like all sorts of crap. We have no clue if the car was ever flashed, so making sure it's running the ROM is very important

 

[cabot2g]

Sprockets are AEM and the pullies are unorthodox racing.

 

[4cedFed]

Wow definitely looks hacked together, especially with that price of wood holding the the fmic.

I would rip most of everything out in the engine bay just to reassure myself there's no other hidden problems.

Anyway goodluck with it

 

[H@xtGSX]

Wood mount = ghetto fabulous! That's funny... but definently get rid of the kindling under the hood. You'll likely want to re-do that upper IC pipe too, especially if it's tied to the OEM UICP. It'd be choked up quite a bit if it is. If it were my car, and I had to pull the head off for the gasket, I'd clean the valves and lap them to the seats again, just to make sure that when you put it back together the compression pressure is good.

 

[iTSaTSi]

My best advice would be to just keep doing what you're doing and start from scratch. Its hard to tell what other little surprises you'll find throughout the car if they have a wooden mount for the intercooler, definitely keep us posted with your progress though.

 

[cabot2g]

Quick question. Are the billet pulleys smaller diameter than OEM?

What it has right now are unorthodox racing and aem sprockets.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Yes, they are a smaller diameter. Not worth it to me. The factory alt already has a rough time in stock trim, and slowing it down makes it worse. I had an unorthodox crank pully on for about 2 hours and hated it. I quickly put the stocker back on and tossed the billet on in a box.
Edit......you will have to measure to be sure. My unorthodox pulley was indeed underdriven, from the part number on the pulley.

 

[ChrisMgst]

What kind of 16g is that? The reason I ask is because the FMIC looks generic so maybe ebay turbo to go with the hack job. I m also in the process of doing a engine build. I ve decided to go with a 6 bolt bottom and keep my 7 bolt head. Forged internals and a new valve train to go with some kelford 272's. Also ecmlink is great if there is upgraded injectors for that 16g as there should be something bigger than the oem 450cc.

 

[98gstbrad]

Things to do on a 99 4g63. Remove balance shafts their not needed the 4g63 is already a well balanced motor in itself. Replace the Hydraulic lifters with the 3g revised lifters it gets rid of the tic coming from the valve cover. Get a boost gauge, stock gauge only predicts what boost should be there it doesnt actually read boost pressure. Get a wideband the AEM UEGO works great. Replace hydraulic timing belt tensioner (only use OEM). Replace timing belt pulleys. Get new timing covers make sure their on especially if a teen will be driving it. If you cant tell the ecu was flashed then look in your local area and see if anyone has the flashing tools. Make sure all wiring is correct. Get an upper intercooler piping setup. If your going to run the 16g make sure it is all set up correctly. You may have to upgrade the injectors to 550s. Get a new raidiator cap. Check the radiator hoses. To me it sounds like your thermostat either was stuck closed or your radiator cap was faulty and did not release the radiator pressure when it was supposed to.

 

[cabot2g]

What kind of 16g is that? The reason I ask is because the FMIC looks generic so maybe ebay turbo to go with the hack job. I m also in the process of doing a engine build. I ve decided to go with a 6 bolt bottom and keep my 7 bolt head. Forged internals and a new valve train to go with some kelford 272's. Also ecmlink is great if there is upgraded injectors for that 16g as there should be something bigger than the oem 450cc.

Not really sure to be honest, just noticed td05on the compressor. I haven't been able to remove it yet, the bolts are sezed. Broke two when taking the exhaust manifold off.

Where does the manufacturer put its name?

 

[EclipseTical]

Not really sure to be honest, just noticed td05on the compressor. I haven't been able to remove it yet, the bolts are sezed. Broke two when taking the exhaust manifold off.

Where does the manufacturer put its name?

yea those bolts like to break off. I usually blast the crap out of them with PB blaster for a day or two before i want to break em loose. You can buy sets of new hardware from many of the approved vendors on this site.

As far as your son's turbo. td05h is the size of the compressor housing. There are also tdo4, etc.

there should be a part number somewhere on the compressor housing; sometimes the numbers are cast into the cover, sometimes they are engraved on a tag on the cover. Compare the part # you find to this list:


14B
49178-01010
49178-01030
49178-01400
49178-01410

Small 16G
49178-01520
49178-05200

Big 16G
49178-01420

Evo I Big 16G
49178-01450

Evo II Big 16G
49178-01460

Evo III Big 16G
49178-01470

there is a ton of info on this in this thread which might help you out. If you still have specific questions, JUSMX141 is our resident turbo guru; there is a questions for justin thread on here as well.

good luck

 

[cabot2g]

Well I checked the numbers and its a EVO III Big 16G.

 

[leepen]

After getting mine home, I realised what a hack job was done to it...can you say redo. There are some great helpful people here. Reasurch everything so you dont buy twice and thats some darn fine carpentry there

 

[cabot2g]

Well I have just about everything unhooked, labeled and out of the way.

About all I have left is the AC compressor. What is the best way to remove the compressor and keep the system charged. I really don't want to have to recharge the AC system.

 

[leepen]

Well I have just about everything unhooked, labeled and out of the way.

About all I have left is the AC compressor. What is the best way to remove the compressor and keep the system charged. I really don't want to have to recharge the AC system.

I dont see how you can keep it charged, every pipe connection has an O ring, that would release the charge. But mine was coughemptycough when I pulled it apart.

 

[cabot2g]

I dont see how you can keep it charged, every pipe connection has an O ring, that would release the charge. But mine was coughemptycough when I pulled it apart.

Did you go back to your AC when you were done or were you doing a AC delete?

This is going to be a DD car so it needs the AC. In the past if we ever compromised the integrity of the AC we had to replace the condenser and evaporator. Guess it was just to ensure there would be no AC issues from contamination.

I was hoping I didn't have to break the lines loose. There may not be a way around it though.

 

[leepen]

Did you go back to your AC when you were done or were you doing a AC delete?

This is going to be a DD car so it needs the AC. In the past if we ever compromised the integrity of the AC we had to replace the condenser and evaporator. Guess it was just to ensure there would be no AC issues from contamination.

I was hoping I didn't have to break the lines loose. There may not be a way around it though.

I will be going back to AC, would like to know more about the condenser and evap replacement. I hadent heard that