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Need help fast..getting tuned on monday

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97GsXfreak

15+ Year Contributor
137
1
Nov 15, 2004
Berkeley Heights, New Jersey
I just finished installing my 680 injectors and td05h ported 20g and i can't boost over 10 psi. I have a 255 pump, safc, logger, fmic, everthing to support it. I turned the boost controller basically all the way in and it doesnt help. I hit about 9 psi by 3500 rpms and than at about 5500 rpms it goes to about 15psi. I did a boost leak test and the weird thing i couldnt understand was i put a compressor on and was pushing about 20 psi in but the boost gauge wasnt moving at all. I only found one tiny leak in the intercooler pipe but i still cant build any boost. And i want to fix this before i bring my car to get tuned because i am afraid i will not be able to tune because of it and i will have to wait longer to setup another appointment. Any suggestions??? :confused:
 
Yeah, I suggest you post more details.

Turbo spools fine, or does it screech? Your boost gauge won't work depending on where it's hooked up at. If the throttle plate is closed, how can it reach into your intake manny?

Are you lossing oil?
 
Check to see if your wastegate somehow got pinned open? If so, you'll probably end up boost surging like crazy once it's fixed.
 
No leaking oil....turbo spools fine...i brought it to get tuned today and they told me there are too many boost leaks so the boost wont go past 10 psi. I dont know how a boost leak would hold me back that much. Anyways so i guess i will try a boost leak test again but any reason why my boost gauge doesnt move???
 
97GsXfreak said:
No leaking oil....turbo spools fine...i brought it to get tuned today and they told me there are too many boost leaks so the boost wont go past 10 psi. I dont know how a boost leak would hold me back that much. Anyways so i guess i will try a boost leak test again but any reason why my boost gauge doesnt move???

Where did you "tap" for the boost gauge? If it is before the point where you are pressure testing then it will obviously not work.

Where did you affix your pressure tester: Turbo Inlet, LIP, UIP, TB, other?

BTW.. even with the throttle plate closed, you will still be pressurizing the intake as air is flows via the BISS and ISC valve. So if the gauge is plumbed to the intake there is definitely a major leak that has yet to be found.
 
sounds like you got a huge leak. I had one of those, although it was relatively easy to find because of the rush of air coming out of the leaks. When you say you push 20 psi in are you talking about setting the line pressure on a big compressor to 20 psi or the guage on one fo the bike pump compressors read 20 psi?

edit: also setting the engine to TDC helped me pinpoint my leaks. It seems like the engine holds the pressure better. Other than that, just follow the lines with your hands and feel for the leaks if you can't hear them. If you are ussing the line pressure thing I said above then the leaks might be so big that there is no way it can pressurize the system.
 
At which point the hiss should be obvious... lick your finger and put it somewhere near the hiss, then follow the colder part. You should end up with your finger on the leak.
 
crashed97tsi said:
also setting the engine to TDC helped me pinpoint my leaks.
TDC is the worst place to be during a pressure test. #1 TDC means #4 valve overlap, intake and exhaust valves both open at the same time, air should be rushing right out of the exhaust.
 
97GsXfreak said:
The gauge is tapped after the intake manifold and i am testing from the turbo.

Are all your IC pipes/bov..etc connected post turbo during the testing?

Not to sound stupid, but as oldman can attest, this was done recently by a Tuners member and took 3+ pages of thread to figure out why he could not pressurize his intake :rolleyes:
 
DSM90AWD said:
Not to sound stupid, but as oldman can attest, this was done recently by a Tuners member and took 3+ pages of thread to figure out why he could not pressurize his intake :rolleyes:
I have no idea what you're talking about. :D Yes, the pressure test without IC piping and IC in the car. ROFL
 
oldman said:
TDC is the worst place to be during a pressure test. #1 TDC means #4 valve overlap, intake and exhaust valves both open at the same time, air should be rushing right out of the exhaust.

I dunno, somebody recommended I try it so I did. Before I did it I couldn't find my leaks. Afterwards, the leaks were apparent and once those were taken care of the system pressurized. :confused:
Where would you recommend the engine be set at when doing one of these? Or does it not really matter at all and I was just looking harder the second time?
 
crashed97tsi said:
I dunno, somebody recommended I try it so I did. Before I did it I couldn't find my leaks. Afterwards, the leaks were apparent and once those were taken care of the system pressurized. :confused:
Where would you recommend the engine be set at when doing one of these? Or does it not really matter at all and I was just looking harder the second time?
The right place to be would be slightly before or after TDC so there are no valve overlap. the fact that you were unable to pressurize the system at all until TDC indicates that you might have ring problems, have you done a compression test yet?
 
oldman said:
The right place to be would be slightly before or after TDC so there are no valve overlap. the fact that you were unable to pressurize the system at all until TDC indicates that you might have ring problems, have you done a compression test yet?

yeah, I had 180 across the board. It was probably just my own stupidity and
not looking hard enough the first time. The leaks were at the BOV flange, throttle body gasket, and intercooler. Its no big deal because I have had that fixed for a long time, I was just trying to correct my faulty info. I don't want to hijack this guys thread so thanks for the info :thumb:
 
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