Need advise with 6 bolt short block

[98DiamondStar]

So after a heavy foot and a boost spike I've now got the head off. What I've found are pistons marked 63D... N/A pistons right? One (#1) has been burned clear through, and one (#2) has clearly been struck by the exhaust valves, but appears to have been done long ago judging by the amount of carbon build-up.
What I'd like to know is how to identify the difference between a 4g63 short block and the 4g63T, is there a difference in crank and rods?
Next I'd like some advice on what to purchase in terms of piston, rods, and crank if this one is cashed... I know one rod bearing is spun. I would be satisfied with 350 - 400 hp when it's all done.
What I've already got installed, evo III 16g, fp cast exhaust manifold, greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller, fic 750 cc injectors, DSMlink V3 full, SD setup (4 bar map and gm iat) no maf.
What's still in the box, aem fuel rail w/ gauge and fpr, walbro 255.
Still need to purchase a WB o2, but first and foremost I need to get the lower end buttoned up.
Any suggestions?

 

[Brandon Mau]

Those are non turbo pistons they should read 63dT on the top. The crank and rods are the same the pistons are different though. They have oil squirters on the bottom of the pistons to help cool them down and run more efficent. Since you spun a rod bearing your gonna want to check your crank to see if it's in spec. Have a machine shop polish it for you and give you specs so you can order the proper bearings if it is not toast for the crank and rods.
For the piston rod combo if you are on a budget which most of us are then I would go for the 1 gen big rod with the 2 gen piston combo if you have a little more cash then get the evo 9 pistons all preference. The stock bottom ends on the 4g63T are awesome and for your power goals just use stock replacement parts. The 2 gen piston has a 8.5 compression ratio which is higher than the first gen piston. This will boost your power a (couple) of ponies. The evo pistons are also 8.5 compression ratio but are a little lighter which in return helps reduce rotating mass a tiny bit more power but more money.
DSMgraveyard has some good deals on there sites for the piston rod combo and bearings ect. Make sure you use ARP bolts for the mains, rods and head bolts while you are replacing everything. You will pay a little more than you would for stock but well worth the upgrade that will hold some more power if you every upgrade your turbo. The head gasket debate will forever go in so many different directions your head will explode. You could go composite or mls ect. , I have been running a cometic composite gasket on my motor with ARP's with the same turbo stock bottom end 22 P.S.I daily with no problems and I race a couple times a month at the tracks. The thing with a composite head gasket in my thinking is that I would rather have the head gasket blow than the motor it has a little more room for error than a MLS gasket which you will have to have your block and head milled and decked to perfection. I would suggest taking your head to machine shop and having it decked just to be safe and build that valvetrain up while your at it. Sorry for rambling on you asked about your bottom end options and I go into the whole motor but just want to gove some opinions on some different ways you could go. Many people will have different opinions on your question but for your power goals I would stay with a fresh stock bottom end with the 2 gen piston upgrade.

 

[98DiamondStar]

Money really isn't a factor when deciding what internals I want, HOWEVER, I live in Alaska and the lack of options for machine work = big shipping cost when it's all said and done.
Is there a quality forged piston out there that doesn't require the rod to be machined to mate them?
I have no reason for my lack of faith in the local shops... Just don't want to find out the hard way that their "small block" experience doesn't cut it in the "turbo tuner" world.
After I finished pulling the pan and popping the pistons out I have verified that there is no oil squirters. Will this be a problem for a daily driven car makin 350 - 400 hp?
Since you touched on the head... How aggresive should I go with a cam, and is there anyone selling a complete kit, lifters, springs, retainers.....?

 

[herms99gst]

If you can find a experienced machinest than it shouldn't matter if he or she only worked with v8's. Just tell them you need the deck resurfaced, cylinders checked and bored if needed. Uf your runnin arp mains than you need the mains align bored with the studs your using. And just get it hot tanked and checked for cracks....thatll be done first.

 

[98DiamondStar]

thanks for the good info herms, I didn't know running arp main studs required extra machine work.
And before I get too far into a build here, 90 octane is the highest I have available at the pump... what kinda set back is that going to have? I can get leaded AV gas but I don't think that will work will it?
Sorry I'm all over the map with these questions, I just want to cover as much as I can before I get into a build that I won't be able to follow through with.
As of right now I'm waiting on a call back from a machine shop in Anchorage that has been building engines for dirt track racers for a few decades. Hope they'll be able to answer some questions.

 

[canada4g63]

Do they have e85 up there?

 

[98DiamondStar]

no sir, no ethanol whatsoever.
my options are 87, 88.5, and 90 octane.

when it comes to boring... what's the safe limit?
If I decide I'm only gonna bore this block once, what's the downside to going .060 the first time?

Pistons https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=16692&cat=1587&page=1&keep_https=yes
Rods https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=16522&cat=255&page=1
I was interested in this combo. Any opinions?

 

[BogusSVO]

You do not want to go .060 bore, unless you have the block sonic checked to make sure your block did not suffer much core shift from the factory.

If you get the cyl bore too thin, then you can split the cylinder.

There is a debte weather or not oil squrters are needed for a DD, a NA block will not have them.
If you go with a forged poston and H-beam rod, squrters will not matter.

If you talk to a supporting vendor, I am sure one will work up a package for your build woth all the parts you need and want.

 

[98DiamondStar]

good advise on talking to a supporting vendor, never considered that, they'll probably more than happy to help me match up internals for a build
I've purchased most of my stuff from www.exterempsi.com and have been treated very well. is there any other vendors that anyone would recommend checking out?

 

[lasercrazy1313]

I recommend extreme psi, mach v, MAP, as well as sbr!!

 

[herms99gst]

Ive always heard if you dont have to bore a cylinder out than don't. The extra displacemment isn't going to make much difference. And imop, if all yall have is 90 oct id go with forged internnals just to be safe. Or a decent meth setup could make up the difference for the low fuel octane.

 

[98DiamondStar]

there is a shop up here that sells the meth kits and has the ability to help a guy with the fine tune. Does anyone know if link has the ability to control and tune with meth?

 

[BogusSVO]

there is a shop up here that sells the meth kits and has the ability to help a guy with the fine tune. Does anyone know if link has the ability to control and tune with meth?

You may want to look in the tuning fourm for an awnser there, or ask there.

I do not know if link can do what you are asking.

 

[russell3123]

I have a set of 1g turbo oem pistons and rods standard bore if you are interested pm me , ill give you a great deal . You will just need the nuts for the rods i lost them.

I know dsmlink v3 can have secondary maps u can switch from on the fly but i dont think you can control the meth .

 

[goodbuds]

I run A na block, it's a good choice for a 4g63 rebuild and no oil squirters. they do more harm than good when you start chasing big hp.
also run the 2g piston NPR,1g rod combo. best bang for your buck.
last thing you cant go cheap with gasket OEM all the way.

 

[98DiamondStar]

Today I went and talked to the old boy that supplied me with my trans core and rebuilt it. I was looking for info on where he gets his machine work done, what I found, was that he's got a 2.4 short block out of an early 90's dodge colt. It was pulled under warranty work at the dealership he was working, at due to oil consumption. Since i'll be building a short block either way, Would this be a better starting point?
I've read a great deal on the 2.4 conversion, however, there's a lot of info I haven't found yet. some of the threads are hard to follow due to the topics switching back and forth between 2.4 short blocks and stroker motors. If anyone has info or even a link to a good build journal I'd appreciate it very much.
Lastly, due to the motor being buried in a conex, I wasn't able to verify whether or not it is infact a 6 bolt or 7 bolt. He will be getting back to me soon I hope. He believes it came out of a 92 or 93 and is pretty sure it was a sohc motor.