The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Resolved Need a J Pipe Nipple

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Make sure to wrap the top portion in exhaust wrap so that it doesn't melt near the exhaust manifold...it can and will happen if you don't.

I still have the stock exhaust manifold head shield on so I'm not sure if this will be an issue or not. Could you show me an example or two of someone's j pipe melting? I would be interested in seeing this.

Straight from their site...

Here is our new fully tigged welded aluminum j pipe for your fmic, perfect for those of you running a 14b, 16g etc

Sorry, I must've missed that when reading their site (and your earlier post). I'm going to contact them tomorrow to verify what material nipple I need to use. Thanks for posting that!
 
What I just did for my Evo III is took of SS J-pipe Drilled, Tapped, and then screwed in fitting, then just weld it together and voila..
 
I'm surprised it hasn't come up yet... but you could always braze a brass fitting to the J-pipe. Mechanically speaking, it isn't as strong as a weld, but the fitting won't be under nearly enough stress to compromise the bond.
 
VelocitàPaola;151268205 said:
I'm surprised it hasn't come up yet... but you could always braze a brass fitting to the J-pipe. Mechanically speaking, it isn't as strong as a weld, but the fitting won't be under nearly enough stress to compromise the bond.

Never heard of that idea before...thanks for something new! But I think I'm going to stick to trying to weld a ss fitting on since a brass fitting on a ss pipe would just look out of place.
 
I have seen them before, but:

1) Didn't want to do anything to the turbo

2) Wanted to eliminate any chance of a leak

That's why I went with the welded nipple on the j pipe

I understand. I agree that if you have the resources to weld it then you should, how ever for most that won't see big boost and do not have the resources to weld, then this is an alternative.
 
Mine is tapped to the compressor housing with no welding, running 24-25psi daily with no leaks.
 
Mine is tapped to the compressor housing with no welding, running 24-25psi daily with no leaks.

^^^ Same for me. I've ran over 32 psi with no leaks, and I've had my last 3 compressor covers tapped and fitted like this.

That's good to know! I'll have to remember this when I upgrade my turbo :thumb:
 
I am going back through my threads and marking them resolved so here's what happened:

I ended up purchasing a 1/4" ID x 1/4" MPT Steel Hose Barb from a local shop. I then cut all the threads off and took it to a local welder. He drilled a hole and welded it in. It works great.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
is putting the nipple closer to the compressor housing better? Or could i just tap one through the coupler a a foot away?
 
I use aluminum piping so I just drilled, wrapped some thread sealant on it and screwed it in. I don't have any leaks. I got a lot of threads in, I'm not sure what hose barb you're thinking of that would use very short threads. I bought mine from the local hardware store and it easily has 1/4" of threading on it.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top