My project: 10's on a 50 trim and stock bottom end.

[1992awdlaser]

As the title says my goal for this car is to run 10's with the 50 trim while keeping the stock bottom end. I am going to try and do it on just boost. But I have a bottle waiting to go on the car and will put it on if need be to reach my goal. Once I reach that goal or the bottom end goes(whichever comes first) I am going to build the block and will add pictures from that to this thread also. I will be updating this thread as I do things to the car. Expect this thread to last a few months at least.

My ultimate goal for the car after I build the bottom end is to run low 10's on boost with a different turbo. Then I will add the bottle with a 75 shot and try to break 9's.

All comments or questions are welcomed.

Nothing special to look at.

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And the reason I am looking for a shell to swap everything into.

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[JeffGST]

"These ones are behind the driver side seat belt."

The large grey box is the seat belt activation module. Those relays, I am going to have to research, since I really don't know where they are at in those pics.

If you see a Mitsu part#, then just write it down and input them in on this link or anywhere else you can find OEM parts online. Mitsubishi OEM Parts - Genuine Mitsubishi Accessories & Mitsubishi Body Parts

 

[1992awdlaser]

Thanks Jeff. Those relays are right next to the grey box. You can see them in the picture where I am pointing at the grey box.

So, I am guessing that grey box has to stay in until I get some harnesses?

Edit: The relay on the left is "Electrical - Chassis electrical - Wipers - Intermittent relay Intermittent relay, eclipse 1990 - 1994." The one on the right is "Electrical - Electrical components - Relay - Dome lamp Dome lamp - Left inner quarter panel 1990 - 1994." And the one in front of the ecu is "Electrical - Chassis electrical - Flashers - Turn signal flasher Turn signal flasher, eclipse 1992 - 1994."

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Why aren't you removing the engine ? If you do, you can definitely eliminate a lot of dead weight while you're in there, especially since you're gutting the car anyway.

 

[1992awdlaser]

What kind of things are you talking about blcknspo0ln? Right now the stuff behind the dash is coming out. The goal for weight is 25xx pounds without me in it. That is with a fiberglass hatch, fiberglass hood, and rear lexan being the only things money will be spent on. I got a Summitt seat for free and of course some of the aftermarket parts (flywheel, suspension etc.) are going to weigh less than the stock pieces.

 

[turboglenn]

11.5 @ 119 is some wicked driving! Anyone ever notice how the 50 trim, although the late craze, has never really been tested to the max? The FPGreen has been around forever and is reputed to be a solid 11 second turbo, but how many people do you see testing these bad boys out to over 30 psi? I think with a good driver, 128+mph traps, you'll be a candidate to knock on 10's door.

So very true... i have a 57 trim that's trapped 119MPH at only 19psi, but being FWD i'll never see it's full potential on the launch. I may try and push it past 30 before i swap engines this summer, but i'm kinda iffy on it because i don't want to completely destroy a good 6 bolt bottom end (at least i don't want to put a hoel in the block )



I think the goals are obtainable, but you'll have to learn to wring that car out for every bit the engine has to offer (a.k.a. drive it like a 2 stroke)

Keep us upudated

 

[1992awdlaser]

Here are a few pictures from when I had the dash out in order to take out the heater core and a/c boxes. After I took these pictures I also took off the brackets that held the boxes in place by drilling out the rivets. i then welded the holes shut.

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While I had the dash out I found out the car had been in a wreck before i owned it. There were some small pieces of glass under the carpet and I saw this on the passenger side.

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[silver bullit]

EKK!!!

Looks like the car was totaled before you got it. Probly be best to throw the car on a chassis jig they use at auto collision places.

Does not look like it is gonna be good though.

But #### it, the shell is now useless so dont bother wasting money on making the car rust free.

Looks like the frame is cracked.

Any pics of inside the engine bay? To see the damage or repairs?

Here are a few pictures from when I had the dash out in order to take out the heater core and a/c boxes. After I took these pictures I also took off the brackets that held the boxes in place by drilling out the rivets. i then welded the holes shut.

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While I had the dash out I found out the car had been in a wreck before i owned it. There were some small pieces of glass under the carpet and I saw this on the passenger side.

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[v8s_are_slow]

Dang man, that sucks. I was actually looking forward to seeing what you'd put down too. I went 7.797 in the 1/8th on just an Evo16g. I now have a 50 trim as well, and I'm thinkin about nitrous too (fwd). Can only imagine what I'd do with a 75 shot. My car is gutted but still has the stock hood and all. Well, let us know what you plan to do. Good luck though.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Dang man, that sucks. I was actually looking forward to seeing what you'd put down too. I went 7.797 in the 1/8th on just an Evo16g. I now have a 50 trim as well, and I'm thinkin about nitrous too (fwd). Can only imagine what I'd do with a 75 shot. My car is gutted but still has the stock hood and all. Well, let us know what you plan to do. Good luck though.

Don't count me out yet. I am going to bring it to a body shop and see if they can weld that crack to make it safe enough to drive on the street. I don't see why they can't. I never new the car was in that shape when it was my daily driver. It seemed to handle fine and everything. If they can't do that then it is going to turn into a track only car and then when i find a shell I will swap everything over. I planned on buying another shell anyway instead of fixing the paint and all the small dings on this one. Tonight when it was getting dark I tried cleaning off one of the cylinders with wd-40 and a scotch-brite pad. It worked pretty good. I will finish doing that tomorrow on all the other ones.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I got the cylinder walls cleaned up with a scotch brite pad and wd-40. I am waiting on the new head gasket to get here so I can put the head on.

 

[haioku-rocket]

lots of nitrous I think it could happen.


People have run low 11s on all turbo, so low 10s is not out of the question but I would say something like 150 shot (should do it), some slicks/drag radials and damn good driving and I think you have a chance. Unfortunately I don't think the engine would last long.


Also you car needs to go on a serious diet.

 

[1992awdlaser]

lots of nitrous I think it could happen.


People have run low 11s on all turbo, so low 10s is not out of the question but I would say something like 150 shot (should do it), some slicks/drag radials and damn good driving and I think you have a chance. Unfortunately I don't think the engine would last long.


Also you car needs to go on a serious diet.

I think you mis-read my post. The goal with the 50 trim and stock bottom end is 10's whether it be a 10.99 or a 10.50. The low 10 goal is for a built bottom end and a bigger turbo unless this breaks 10's easy enough (I'm sure it won't).

 

[turbotalon1g]

sorry wrong tab. Great project i think your goal is doable, nice to see you using nitrous, there is a lack of it in the DSM community it seems like if not a lack of info on it on DSMs on the internet.

 

[redtsi252]

any progress?....I live in Havelock NC....and I go to Coastal PLains...how far are you from Havelock....i would love to help with the car....lemme kno

 

[1992awdlaser]

Mapquest says Havelock is about an hour and 50 minutes away. If you really wanted to help you could. But, it is a bit of a drive.

Waiting on some parts from JNZ and then I will finish putting the engine back together. I'm also looking for some 15's and trying to decide between slicks or drag radials.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

If you're gonna have a completely different set of wheels and tires, I'd go slicks and know you're gonna be good, versus getting drag radials and wonder if you're gonna slip.

 

[1992awdlaser]

If you're gonna have a completely different set of wheels and tires, I'd go slicks and know you're gonna be good, versus getting drag radials and wonder if you're gonna slip.

The only things really keeping me from going to slicks are: How often do you have to air them up without using tubes? Do you really have to run screws?

If the answer is yes to the second question then I won't be using slicks. The airing up doesn't really bother me just curious. Everyhing else says to go with slicks though.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I believe screws would keep the tire from spinning on the wheel. Personally, I don't have screws or tubes. And if anything, I don't want screws in them cause if it spins, well, that's just a lil give that'll relieve my drivetrain from hard launches. I run about 12-13 psi on slicks at the track. I bought an electric air pump for filling up the tires at the track cause after a run or 2, the slicks heat up and I have to let air out. Then when it sits and cools, the pressure goes back down. Nice to have a way to get air back in.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I believe screws would keep the tire from spinning on the wheel. Personally, I don't have screws or tubes. And if anything, I don't want screws in them cause if it spins, well, that's just a lil give that'll relieve my drivetrain from hard launches. I run about 12-13 psi on slicks at the track. I bought an electric air pump for filling up the tires at the track cause after a run or 2, the slicks heat up and I have to let air out. Then when it sits and cools, the pressure goes back down. Nice to have a way to get air back in.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Auto RS T]

Smearing a light coat of a very thick and dense liquid soap on the inside wall of the slick will help the slicks hold air.

Screws are used to stop the slick from spinning on the wheel. The other method is a beadlock. The screws won't cause you to loose air if they are done properly and drilled evenly around the wheel to aid in balancing.

 

[ali]

good luck with the build

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Thanks for the info.

No problem.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Smearing a light coat of a very thick and dense liquid soap on the inside wall of the slick will help the slicks hold air.

Thanks for the info. I thought I heard something like that awhile ago. So, your supposed to just put it on the inner sidewall and not the inner tread width?

Screws are used to stop the slick from spinning on the wheel. The other method is a beadlock. The screws won't cause you to loose air if they are done properly and drilled evenly around the wheel to aid in balancing.

I knew they were to keep them from spinning. I just wasn't sure if they were actually needed. I think I'm going to go by what v8s_are_slow said and go with the slicks.

I think I am going to go with the et streets. Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels My friend has them on his camaro and that thing launches pretty hard, I would think in the 1.4 60ft range. What do you guys think about these tires?

 

[turboglenn]

Go with M&H slicks, way better hookup in a FWD at least, so i imagine they'd be better on AWD too. I ran M&H one year then mickey's the next and i had traction issues out teh wazoo even on mickey's but then i was on an open dif, so take it for what it's worth.

 

[blownturbotsi]

I say M&H's.