My fuse box relocation (project log)

[kawboy]

You can use a piece (or a couple to distribute the stress) of (clean) wood (2x4 blocks) between the crank and block to hold the motor from turning over, and tighten the crank bolt.

 

[snowborder714]

And that bolt wasn't in the bag with PNC 03122? I know there was at least one bolt in there.

 

[turbosax2]

Nope, just the 2 powdercoated bolts to mount the cas to the head. Of all the freaking bolts I've coated and bought new ones of, this is the first I've misplaced. Bah.

 

[turbosax2]

I have the right bolt. The other one in the bag used to go to the balance belt tensioner. I'll be back in a little with my CAS install pics

 

[snowborder714]

Don't you need the o-ring that I'm bringing home this weekend?

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Got a quick question. I went to the dealer this summer to get a bunch of bolts and they gave me a strength 4 bolt for the oil pump sprocket bolt. But every picture i have EVER seen is a 10. I know that this is usually where the balance shaft is and would normally weigh much more than a stubby. Do you think i will be alright with a much less tensile strength bolt for that or should i get a 10?

James

 

[turbosax2]

Engineers at Mitsubishi are smarter than I am. I figure if they made that a grade 10 bolt then I shouldn't use a weaker one in place of it. Just my opinion.


Well guys, somethings up with my engine.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/321093-crank-wont-turn.html

 

[Scrymerr]

I wanted to make a comment in regards to the alternator relocation kit: dielectric grease is non-conductive and should not be used between the bracket and the block as it will impair the ground.

 

[turbosax2]

Woops. I'll fix it later.

 

[turbosax2]

I wanted to make a comment in regards to the alternator relocation kit: dielectric grease is non-conductive and should not be used between the bracket and the block as it will impair the ground.

Fixed.






First the spacer goes on the crank. This replaces the balance shaft sprocket.

Then the brand new trigger plate. The blue marking goes on the outside.

Then the crank pulley. The side with the dowel pin obviously faces out.

I tightened the crank bolt down using a block of wood covered in a rag (thanks for the tip!). I used a bit of red loctite on this. Also put the CPS back on.

The baffling and oil strainer (with new gasket) were bolted on.

The oil pan was put on with Great Stuff for Imports. I used 4 Moroso studs in the corners to help locate the oil pan. The rest are stainless bolts.

The new stud for the turbo to o2 housing was delivered. Antiseize was used on the hardware and copper spray on the gasket. The o2 sensor was installed with antiseize.

 

[kawboy]

Looks good

You should sell those oil pans, I'd buy one

 

[turbosax2]

Thanks! Nothing really special about the oil pan. A friend gave me the pan, and I had another guy weld the fittings on after I drilled the holes. The only thing I did besides drill the holes was powdercoat it.

 

[kawboy]

Well theres no "new" aftermarket turbo 7 bolt pans, I can't weld, and I can't powdercoat

 

[romeen]

Very clean, you could practically serve food on that motor.

I noticed the 12 point ARP crank bolt. Never seen that before. Is there any particular benefit to using that other than it probably being a higher grade of steel?

 

[turbosax2]

FFWD's sweet talk convinced me. I'm a sucker for new hardware
FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

FFWD's sweet talk convinced me. I'm a sucker for new hardware
FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain

Haha. I have the same one. They are good looking.

James

 

[zack4g63s]

I wanted to make a comment in regards to the alternator relocation kit: dielectric grease is non-conductive and should not be used between the bracket and the block as it will impair the ground.

Then why would they use it in spark plug wires and what not?

 

[housegsx]

It's there to prevent corrosion and arcing.

 

[lo_boost]

First of all AWSOME job man. I just got back from Iraq and planing on doing the same to mine. Do you have more pics of the blast cabinet? Where did you get the plans to build it?

 

[Dsmj89]

Lookin good turbosax. How much more till the motor gets dropped in ?

 

[turbosax2]

First of all AWSOME job man. I just got back from Iraq and planing on doing the same to mine. Do you have more pics of the blast cabinet? Where did you get the plans to build it?

Info about the cabinet can be found here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/203657-media-blasting-2.html#post151640042

I didn't use any plans to build it, just made it from scratch. I based it off another member's cabinet, however.

Lookin good turbosax. How much more till the motor gets dropped in ?

Paint and cure heat shield
Install fuel rail and injectors
Clean lifters once more
Clean rockers and cams and install
Install cas
Make oil return line
Fill engine with oil and prime it
Fab up coil pack bracket
Powdercoat and install cam gears
Install a few other little pieces

Hoping to drop engine in in 2 or 3 weeks. School has started up again so I'm back to working on the car only on weekends.

 

[Dsmj89]

Sounds like a lot but not too bad. Good luck can't wait to see it back in.

 

[turbosax2]

Ya, nothing major. My brother's coming home this weekend, plus I have Monday off, so we should be able to bang it all out this weekend.

 

[snowborder714]

We better be able to!! And I have your timing belt cover gaskets for you.

 

[turbosax2]

Powdercoated and installed my alternator pulley.

Made my oil return line.

Parts used:
Earl's perform-o-flex -10 hose (400100), 125mm used
Earl's black ano-tuff -10 straight fitting (AT800110)
Earl's black ano-tuff -10 forged 45* fitting (AT804510)

I originally had a normal 45* instead of a forged one, but this bend was so tight that the forged fitting was needed.

Installed the power steering pump and powdercoated pulley.

Put the fuel rail spacers on the head. Lubed up the injector seals with dielectric grease and placed them in head.

Installed the fpr on fuel rail. New o-ring lubed with a bit of oil. Installed the injectors in fuel rail backwards so that connectors point down. New upper o-rings on all of them with a bit of oil.

I cleaned the lifters in acetone twice over the course of a week. I didn't worry about keeping the lifters in the positions they originally came from. Then prime them with oil and drain it out (instructions on vfaq). Lubed them up and slid them right in. Lubed up the the tops of the valve springs and lifters.

I quickly cleaned the rockers in acetone one by one so they went back in their original positions. Lubed up roller and parts that touch lifters and valve springs. They just rest in place.