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My build hoping for 550+HP on 2.0L...ideas?

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91TSIallday

10+ Year Contributor
172
0
Jun 17, 2009
E. Wenatchee, Washington
Ok so i tore into my baby almost a year ago and started over with a used block and head but got the head machined bored over .30, head machined with 1mm oversized valves, Titanum springs retainers. I also am getting the block assembled as we speak with a refurbished crank, eagle/ross piston and rod combo (.30 over) cometic HG, ARP head and main studs, front oil pump cover from a mirage (same size but the BS port is blocked off) topline water pump, topline full gasket kit for 4g63. Thats all i have so far but its starting to come together its just hard to fund that kind of project on a $10/hr job. Here is a list of what i am planing on doing any input, short cuts, ideas, or money severs would be awesome!:hellyeah:


EXTREMEPSI.COM
FMIC-$860.63
SSQV BOV-$259.95
MISHIMOTO RACE RADIATOR-$217.50
SLIM FAN-$185.50
FIDANZA AXLES (FRONT)-$447.20
FIC 950CC INJECTORS-$314.00
AEROMOTIVE FPR KIT-$234.95
WALBRO 255-$99.00
FIC FUEL RAIL-$129.00
FIDANZA ADJ. CAM GEARS (PAIR)-$194.95
BRIAN CROWER 272/272 CAMS-$349.55
UNORTHODOX UNDERDRIVE PULLEY SET-$340.00
THERMAL EXHAUST 3”-$559.00
THERMAL 3” DOWN PIPE-$135.00
KYB AGX STRUTS-$479.90
TIEN SPRINGS-$225.00
TOTAL=$5031.13 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)

*** = MIGHT GET OR SWITCH OUT
***DRIVESHAFT-$674.99
***AEROMOTIVE 700HP FUEL PUMP-$325.50
***TOPLINE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY-$149.00
***3” TEST PIPE-$69.00
***MEGAN COILOVER-$849.00
TOTAL=$2067.49 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
FP
O2 HOUSING -$275.00
MANIFOLD-$200.00
FP3065-$1520.00
WG-$385.00
TOTAL=$2380.00 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
EXTREMEPSI.COM
O2 W/ INTERNAL DUMP-$292.19
MANIFOLD-MY 2ND GEN MANI
GT3582R (BB)-$1385.99
TIAL V44MM WG-$355.95
TOTAL=$2024.13 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
SHEPTRANS.COM
SHEP STAGE 3 REBUILD-$1975.00
TOTAL COST
$5031.13+2024.13= $7055.26+1975.00= $9030.26
OR 5031.13+2380.00=7411.13+1975.00= $9386.13
 
SonySlave THANKS! you ###### just saved me a whole lot of money! LOL what do you think about the mirage front oil pump cover that i was talking about earlier?

I actually don't know anything about the Mirage oil pump. Sorry. But another money saving tip I have would be to purchase any OEM parts you are going to need from Russell Moore at mitsubishiparts.net. Russell is the parts guy at my local Mitsu dealer and he has the best prices on OEM parts I have found anywhere. Better prices than JNZ, ExtremePSI, MAPerformance, etc... You can call him or use his website. It's best to call him though as that's when he can get you the best deals. I've been trying to get him to come over here and become a vendor, but he just hasn't. He is a supporting vendor over at EvolutionM though.

MitsubishiParts.net - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories
 
You definitely have some shortfalls in your setup. Let me explain:

- Fidanza Axles = Totally unnecessary unless you are breaking them non stop, which is rare on an AWD with only 550whp.

- Brian Crower 272s = Some of the worst cams, if not the worst cams, you can buy. You could run HKS 264s and make more consistant power. Save yourself the money on those Fidanza axles and buy a good set of FP2s, FP4Rs, or Kelford 272s.

- Mishimoto Radiator - Also unnecessary. Just put one or two slimlines on a stocker and be done with it.

- HKS SSQV - Leaks under high boost on too many cars. Tial is definitely the way to go.

- Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley - Unless you like cranks that break in half, DO NOT get this pulley. It does not have an internal dampener and the vibrations can cause the crank to just snap. Bad news. Stick with stock or the ATI or Fluidampr crank pullies.

- Tein Springs - Crappy ride. Bounce all over the place. Go with a set of Eibach Pro-Kits or H&R Sports for a MUCH smoother ride.

- FIC Fuel Rail - Unnecessary. The stock fuel rail is able to be tapped for fuel lines up to -8AN, which is pretty big.

- Topline Oil Pump - Unless you like oil pumps eating themselves from the inside out, stick with an OEM oil pump. It's one of the most, if not the most important part on your engine.



Everything else you have on your list work well. Just look around for deals in the classifieds or get into group buys to save money. This post is of course my opinion, but there is sufficient evidence to back up all the statements I've made. :thumb:

Very good post. I agree with everything said.
 
so i guess i aint to off on my list just some things that needs tweaked here and there. Thans everyone if anything was left out please feel free to let me know. i'll havge pics up soon of my other quickie build that i picked up a 90 eclipse for 300 and it has a couple broke valves and i have lots of stock ones:hellyeah:
 
For what you're looking at spending, you might as well go with the best cams -- Kelford's. I think Comp's are probably the best cams for the money, but you might as well go all out on cams since you already are on everything else. I like my BC272's alright, but I wish they were a bit more aggressive; if you're looking to keep as much lowend torque & spoolup, the BC272's are great though, as I didn't lose anything and gained everywhere.
 
I have the unorthodox crank pully and have had 0 problems (I know several people with these pulleys). I have Tokico shocks and I like them, rides like a racecar though, don't expect a cushy ride. I have the same oil pump/cover you are thinking of doing works great.
 
:hellyeah: finally someone who has heard/used the same oil pump i am going to be using! So that will save me some cash now that i dont have to buy another oil cover. ya i heard the tokico were good but i also heard the AGX with H&R springs were just as good. And for the cams i was also looking at FP3 cams but shoot since i've heard alot of good from BC might as well! even though some ppl dont like the BC on my threadLOL
 
I'm going to post up a few threads regarding my friend's car up here in Washington State. It's a 3065 1G, same as what you are looking to do. You may recognize it since you are also from up here.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/324626-our-sleeper-1g-makes-619whp-out-fp3065.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drag-strip/328944-9-6-144-fp3065.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/339242-638whp-fp3065-fp2s-vs-fp4r.html

Read those threads. Trust me when I say this, you would never find a shitty set of BC cams, or BC ANYTHING, on a car like that. Their parts run like crap and fall apart under very weak conditions.

Here's what a set of BC's "awesome" valve springs and retainers did on the last car I saw them in. 8k RPMs was the highest these ever went and were only used a few thousand miles. Freaking weak.

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Back to your build. You can use any parts you want, it's your car. If you want to run the Unorthodox pulley, go for it, but understand that you are taking an accelerated risk of snapping that crank. Other than snapping the crank, underdriving the crank will underdrive the alternator, causing less voltage produced. These cars already drop enough voltage under WOT as it is. Run BC cams if you want but I guarantee you 120% that you would make WAY better power with the FP2s, FP4Rs, or Kelford 272s. Unless you are running a stroker motor, I wouldn't run the FP3s. They work good for 2.0s, but are specifically designed for strokers. If it was my car it would be FP4Rs or the Kelford 272s.
 

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HMMM, I have Crower Springs and retainers and have had 0 issues. I have HKS cams though so I can't speak to the BC cams. My car is rev limited @8200 so it actually spins to 8k a lot, there are 1000s of miles on these parts none of them easy. I agree with the voltage issue. The solution is to get a good alternator. I have 13.7V @ WOT and I set my idle @1050RPM. I also use an optima Red Top Battery which helps a lot. 550+HP is a lot. You will want to do the suspension and brake mods so you can enjoy the power.

I am just offering an alternative opinion I am by no means a 4g63 authority but I know my stuff works. You can build how you want. Proper assembly is very important and will save you a lot of headaches.
 
For what you're looking at spending, you might as well go with the best cams -- Kelford's. I think Comp's are probably the best cams for the money, but you might as well go all out on cams since you already are on everything else. I like my BC272's alright, but I wish they were a bit more aggressive; if you're looking to keep as much lowend torque & spoolup, the BC272's are great though, as I didn't lose anything and gained everywhere.

No way, my brothers car has BC272's and he lost some down low. Slowed spool down also. My car kills his from a 3000 rpm WOT. But if we actually launched or started up top he just pulls away. Cars are pretty much identical other than the cams. Im on stock cams.
 
Ok Now what about money wise? b/c i looked on FP's site and they didnt have the FP 2, 3 all they had were the 4's and 5's and im thinking those might be a little to big! I did get a complete head job:sneaky: with valves, springs, retainers, 1mm oversized valves revised lifters and all the good stuff. I will be posting pictures up very soon! the engine is being put together as we speak!:hellyeah:
 
dont waste your $$ on a underdrive pulley set. walbro 255lph hp is good enough, dont need adjustable cam gears, no need for axles or trans rebuild yet, no need for driveshaft, get slim fans,

and everything the other 3-4 people under your 1st post said.
 
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