My build hoping for 550+HP on 2.0L...ideas?

[91TSIallday]

Ok so i tore into my baby almost a year ago and started over with a used block and head but got the head machined bored over .30, head machined with 1mm oversized valves, Titanum springs retainers. I also am getting the block assembled as we speak with a refurbished crank, eagle/ross piston and rod combo (.30 over) cometic HG, ARP head and main studs, front oil pump cover from a mirage (same size but the BS port is blocked off) topline water pump, topline full gasket kit for 4g63. Thats all i have so far but its starting to come together its just hard to fund that kind of project on a $10/hr job. Here is a list of what i am planing on doing any input, short cuts, ideas, or money severs would be awesome!


EXTREMEPSI.COM
FMIC-$860.63
SSQV BOV-$259.95
MISHIMOTO RACE RADIATOR-$217.50
SLIM FAN-$185.50
FIDANZA AXLES (FRONT)-$447.20
FIC 950CC INJECTORS-$314.00
AEROMOTIVE FPR KIT-$234.95
WALBRO 255-$99.00
FIC FUEL RAIL-$129.00
FIDANZA ADJ. CAM GEARS (PAIR)-$194.95
BRIAN CROWER 272/272 CAMS-$349.55
UNORTHODOX UNDERDRIVE PULLEY SET-$340.00
THERMAL EXHAUST 3”-$559.00
THERMAL 3” DOWN PIPE-$135.00
KYB AGX STRUTS-$479.90
TIEN SPRINGS-$225.00
TOTAL=$5031.13 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)

*** = MIGHT GET OR SWITCH OUT
***DRIVESHAFT-$674.99
***AEROMOTIVE 700HP FUEL PUMP-$325.50
***TOPLINE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY-$149.00
***3” TEST PIPE-$69.00
***MEGAN COILOVER-$849.00
TOTAL=$2067.49 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
FP
O2 HOUSING -$275.00
MANIFOLD-$200.00
FP3065-$1520.00
WG-$385.00
TOTAL=$2380.00 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
EXTREMEPSI.COM
O2 W/ INTERNAL DUMP-$292.19
MANIFOLD-MY 2ND GEN MANI
GT3582R (BB)-$1385.99
TIAL V44MM WG-$355.95
TOTAL=$2024.13 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
SHEPTRANS.COM
SHEP STAGE 3 REBUILD-$1975.00
TOTAL COST
$5031.13+2024.13= $7055.26+1975.00= $9030.26
OR 5031.13+2380.00=7411.13+1975.00= $9386.13

 

[BrokenTsi]

Holy expensive build list. You can reach your goals for 1/2 that money.

And you'll be spending alot more than that if you actually use all those parts you want anyways.

I did 600whp on a walbro 255 with stock fuel lines, fuel rail, stock cam gears, stock sized valves, stock drive shaft, stock axles, stock rebuilt trans, stock pulleys, etc....


Lots of ways to save money if you buy a good FMIC core, then make your own pipes. Dont use an HKS bov, use Tial.

Use that extra money on a twin disc clutch, and a full t3 turbo setup. GT35r will work, but I never liked that turbo. Its expensive.

I would have dogboxracing.com or jnztuning.com build my trans. Way cheaper then shep.

 

[91TSIallday]

wow! I just didnt think stock will hold up that long ### i was also hoping to make this a daily driver. And to make sure nothing will break or leak with this damn DSM. I guess it would save me a whole lot of money bending my own pipping! i also forgot to add a 3" GM MAF and the basic electronics (DSMlink, boost controller, etc...)

 

[e85_4g63]

And to make sure nothing will break or leak with this damn DSM.

... You'll be spending alot of time to the car gods, and probably a couple times a day... then you'll and grab your trusty 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm tools and rock on....

 

[91TSIallday]

ya i hear ya thats why i was naming off the brands i want to go with so at least there will be some comfot will be there! But more ideas or input on the build is appreciated!

 

[91TSIallday]

what size of BOV should i use for my setup? I was looking on Extremepsi and found a 50mm i think that might be a bit big?

 

[DSMReviver]

try to find some of the parts used, it will save you lots of money for other suff.

 

[DSMReviver]

Also i got some parts for your car that you might be interested in. 4bolt and maf. if you are interested pm me.

 

[gstryyder]

Ok so i tore into my baby almost a year ago and started over with a used block and head but got the head machined bored over .30, head machined with 1mm oversized valves, Titanum springs retainers. I also am getting the block assembled as we speak with a refurbished crank, eagle/ross piston and rod combo (.30 over) cometic HG, ARP head and main studs, front oil pump cover from a mirage (same size but the BS port is blocked off) topline water pump, topline full gasket kit for 4g63. Thats all i have so far but its starting to come together its just hard to fund that kind of project on a $10/hr job. Here is a list of what i am planing on doing any input, short cuts, ideas, or money severs would be awesome!


EXTREMEPSI.COM
FMIC-$860.63 Look for a cheaper kit. That's way too expensive
SSQV BOV-$259.95
MISHIMOTO RACE RADIATOR-$217.50
SLIM FAN-$185.50 you can get a fan radiator combo kit for cheaper...
FIDANZA AXLES (FRONT)-$447.20 waste of money. if you end up breaking your stock ones... go buy some raxles race axles... better quality. lifetime warranty
FIC 950CC INJECTORS-$314.00 contact AFI (vendor on her) get some bigger injectors for cheaper...
AEROMOTIVE FPR KIT-$234.95
WALBRO 255-$99.00
FIC FUEL RAIL-$129.00
FIDANZA ADJ. CAM GEARS (PAIR)-$194.95 not necessary if you buy different cams...
BRIAN CROWER 272/272 CAMS-$349.55 i would reccomend better cams
UNORTHODOX UNDERDRIVE PULLEY SET-$340.00 don't buy on of these kits... not a good idea. saves ya 340$ too
THERMAL EXHAUST 3”-$559.00
THERMAL 3” DOWN PIPE-$135.00
KYB AGX STRUTS-$479.90
TIEN SPRINGS-$225.00 might as well buy a set of coilovers for that cost!
TOTAL=$5031.13 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)

*** = MIGHT GET OR SWITCH OUT
***DRIVESHAFT-$674.99 save this as one of your last things to do.
***AEROMOTIVE 700HP FUEL PUMP-$325.50i would think the wally (or even a supra fuel pump would be fine.
***TOPLINE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY-$149.00
***3” TEST PIPE-$69.00
***MEGAN COILOVER-$849.00 definitely get these instead of a spring/strut kit...
TOTAL=$2067.49 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
FP
O2 HOUSING -$275.00
MANIFOLD-$200.00
FP3065-$1520.00
WG-$385.00
TOTAL=$2380.00 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
EXTREMEPSI.COM
O2 W/ INTERNAL DUMP-$292.19
MANIFOLD-MY 2ND GEN MANI
GT3582R (BB)-$1385.99
TIAL V44MM WG-$355.95
TOTAL=$2024.13 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
SHEPTRANS.COM
SHEP STAGE 3 REBUILD-$1975.00 wait until you NEED a rebuild.
TOTAL COST
$5031.13+2024.13= $7055.26+1975.00= $9030.26
OR 5031.13+2380.00=7411.13+1975.00= $9386.13

you are definitley going at this from a very expensive point of view. first things you need to purchase are things to get your suspension top notch. coilovers, bushings, motor mounts, differential bushings... and good brakes to slow you down. you can always wait until your tranny goes to get a new one. take it easy on the car for a bit and you can hold off on that one. try to find things on sales or deal combos. alot of the stuff you are looking at very expensive priced stuff. you can get better deals. on top of that... if you want a bit of a cheaper and revised list of the path you should go i could spen and hour or so looking up parts prices, sites, and better part n deals. my fill in a few holes in your build.

 

[GsXtacY325]

what size of BOV should i use for my setup? I was looking on Extremepsi and found a 50mm i think that might be a bit big?

nope 50mm is perfect. i recommend the old tial 50mm bov. import evolution has them listed i believe less than $200! the new q that extreme psi sells, tial claims to be 50% more efficient, but badass built cars have been using the old 50mm for the last decade, plus IMO the old 50mm looks way more visually appealing. whichever you chose, you can't go wrong w/ tial!

 

[GsXtacY325]

also i recommend ditching the gm maf idea and run speed density if you are looking at dsmlinkv3. save the money for a maf and link cable and spend it on ait and map sensors. a gm maf will work fine for your goals, but speed density is "new" cool tech to be used on a stock ecu and ditches that ugly maf. either way you go you'll be fine, just a recommendation. and i disagree w/ that you are spending too much. quality builds require quality parts. to me it sounds like you got the right idea. go big or go home.

 

[bigf4]

I'm edit your list to what you need and dont need to get to your 550+hp goal.

EXTREMEPSI.COM
FMIC-$Can find it cheaper than that for your goal HP
SSQV BOV- Get a tial
MISHIMOTO RACE RADIATOR- Dont need
SLIM FAN-They are nice to have to working on clearance
FIDANZA AXLES (FRONT)-Dont need
FIC 950CC INJECTORS-$314.00 Get FIC 1100cc
AEROMOTIVE FPR KIT- helpful with adjusting fuel
WALBRO 255-$99.00
FIC FUEL RAIL-Dont need
FIDANZA ADJ. CAM GEARS (PAIR)-Nice for tuning but you dont need unless you have extra$
BRIAN CROWER 272/272 CAMS-$349.55
UNORTHODOX UNDERDRIVE PULLEY SET-Dont need
THERMAL EXHAUST 3"-$559.00 <-- sexy exhaust if you have the $
THERMAL 3" DOWN PIPE- Can get a megan for cheaper $180 i think
KYB AGX STRUTS-$479.90
TIEN SPRINGS-$225.00


*** = MIGHT GET OR SWITCH OUT
***DRIVESHAFT-$Don't need
***AEROMOTIVE 700HP FUEL PUMP-Don't need
***TOPLINE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY-Get the oil pump from the mitsu $197, trust me
***3" TEST PIPE-gut the cats don't need
***MEGAN COILOVER-don't need
TOTAL=$2067.49 (NOT INCLUDING TAX)
For a Turbo set up that will make an easy 500hp
Rebuild tranny - Nice to have done
FB Red
With stock 2manifold and if your not happy with that 550+hp, spray some meth and there is your extra power.

Dsm don't take much to fly. Plus a DSm link will aid you allot with tunning

If you ant got nothing to tune with might as well send the car to the Junk Yard.

This is the mid cheap way to do it unless your down to spend some $

 

[BrokenTsi]

you dont have to bend pipes. You can just order the bends on ebay. Thats what I did. All I needed was a few 45's and a few 90 degree bends. Cut them to fit. Every car is different and "kits" dont always fit perfect. That will save you a few hundred right there.

 

[91TSIallday]

How Much Does That Speed Density Run? And Thanks Gstryyder For The Short List Of Parts If You Want I Would Appreciate A Better Lsit Of What I Need. And I Kinda Need A Rebuild B/c My Friend Gave Me His And Its In Pretty Bad Shape So I Was Looking At Dogboxracing.com And Found A Stage 2 Build That Would B Fine For 1200. Im Thinking About Just Buying New Or Used Pulley's And The Reason I Wanted To Go Fidanza Axles Is B/c Of The Last Build I Did To Help Fund My Red Beauty I Took The Front Axles And T-case And Put It On That One So I Just Dont Have Any Unless I Can Find A Good Pair In Good Condition For A Reasonable Price.

 

[91TSIallday]

and the front oil pump i have is the one out of a mitsu. mirage b/c its the same size but the BS port is blocked off so i found out that it can be used and might be better

 

[JayRolla]

Thats a 700whp build with some good fuel. Im hoping for 550+whp on my stock rebuild and an hx40 thats going to cost me less than $600 to get hangin off my head.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

There is nothing wrong with a SSQV, the tial is not necessary unless you have a million hp. Its up to you to chose which bov, there both good.

 

[91TSIallday]

ya i was looking and comparing prices and found out that the SSQV BOV and the TIAL Q is the same price

 

[JayRolla]

Tial all the way. It will never leak. A lot of other "good" bov's have been known to leak at high boost levels. I mean I trust my crushed 1g bov over almost any other bov.

 

[DSMReviver]

ya i was looking and comparing prices and found out that the SSQV BOV and the TIAL Q is the same price

dont spend your hard working dollars to sound good. make it go faster. get cams, turbo and tunning ecu. or maf traslator.

 

[BrokenTsi]

SSQ is just rice to me. I would never run that crap. It sounds goofy and it looks goofy under the hood. I always ran the older tial 50mm. I ran my t67 setup at 36psi with no issues on it.

 

[timsturbotalon]

heres what i would do. find someone who has has a fully built car for sale and buy it wont cost near as much

 

[audiomaster]

I have to +1 to the poster who said do your brakes and suspension first. I love the gobs of HP my car makes but being able to stop and explode through corners is where the real satisfaction lies. I agree with everyone who has recommended the tial BOV. They are rock solid. The SSQV is no joke though, I don't like the way the whistle sounds though, it gets annoying like your football coach whistling at you to do more up -- downs.

 

[SonySlave]

You definitely have some shortfalls in your setup. Let me explain:

- Fidanza Axles = Totally unnecessary unless you are breaking them non stop, which is rare on an AWD with only 550whp.

- Brian Crower 272s = Some of the worst cams, if not the worst cams, you can buy. You could run HKS 264s and make more consistant power. Save yourself the money on those Fidanza axles and buy a good set of FP2s, FP4Rs, or Kelford 272s.

- Mishimoto Radiator - Also unnecessary. Just put one or two slimlines on a stocker and be done with it.

- HKS SSQV - Leaks under high boost on too many cars. Tial is definitely the way to go.

- Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley - Unless you like cranks that break in half, DO NOT get this pulley. It does not have an internal dampener and the vibrations can cause the crank to just snap. Bad news. Stick with stock or the ATI or Fluidampr crank pullies.

- Tein Springs - Crappy ride. Bounce all over the place. Go with a set of Eibach Pro-Kits or H&R Sports for a MUCH smoother ride.

- FIC Fuel Rail - Unnecessary. The stock fuel rail is able to be tapped for fuel lines up to -8AN, which is pretty big.

- Topline Oil Pump - Unless you like oil pumps eating themselves from the inside out, stick with an OEM oil pump. It's one of the most, if not the most important part on your engine.



Everything else you have on your list work well. Just look around for deals in the classifieds or get into group buys to save money. This post is of course my opinion, but there is sufficient evidence to back up all the statements I've made.

 

[91TSIallday]

ok all you guys talked me into the TIAL i dont want to hear the sound of a coachs whistle i hear enough of that on a regular basis! But i was going to go with the KYB AGX since they are good and a reasonable price!