- Thread starter
- #26
Archer Fabrications
10+ Year Contributor
- 9,719
- 705
- May 9, 2011
-
Scottsdale,
Arizona
No that would void the warranty... No pre filter, no restrictor, straight fromDo you run a filter on the turbo oil feed?
Ofh clean port (top)
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No that would void the warranty... No pre filter, no restrictor, straight fromDo you run a filter on the turbo oil feed?
I'll re use the crank if it checks out. If I'm going to be changing internals at all itll be turbo tuff i beams and ross pistons. Theres a new cometic head gasket with gas filled o rings i was looking into, but the permatorque on a fresh and flat head and block had served me well. Think the tool steel studs are a for sure must none of the bearings spun, they were all seated correctly. I have a video somewhere of the knocking sound i heard. It was very fast, and increased with rpm was a loud clacking more then a knock.Those bearings don't even look that bad, I'm suprised it knocked. Did any of them spin? If your going to be using the same crank over again I would be extremely particular about clearances. I'd use a dial bore gauge and quality micrometer to do the measurements. If you are not assembling it yourself make sure the assembler using this method and not a Plastigage. Plastigage is a good method but not if you want it to be perfect.
Secondly, for an 800-1000hp build I would run wiseco HD and Manley I beams. If you are comfortable with an aluminum rod I'd go with the FFWD rods. As far as the head goes, you need L19 at a minimum, I'm a fan of the OEM MLS but English racing swears by o-ringing the head for over 700hp but who knows.
Oh man. Your car registers 0psi oil pressure you pull over immdiately. A tow is way more cheaper than a rebuild. Sucks. I feel your pain. Truly do.
We gotta start hangin outDuring a vacation 2500 miles from my house my fp inline filter broke. I was in the middle of nowhere in Ohio. I shut down as soon as I saw smoke mid pull. I walked until I could get phone service and called my cousin to bring me some oil. Luckily the way the filter is designed you can bypass it just by removing it, and my oil line went strait to the fitting on the filter housing. Even more lucky was the fact that I only dumped 2.5 quarts of oil when I went to refill.
I drove around a few more days, then drove the car 2,500 miles back to Arizona. During my yearly tear down my bearings had no abnormal wear. I replaced them as I do every year anyway.
I have a meticulous maintenance schedule I keep on my car. I usually run 35-40psi of boost, drive the car very hard, and put at least 15,000-20,000 miles on it every year.
