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Motor ran dry, teardown/rebuild

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Those bearings don't even look that bad, I'm suprised it knocked. Did any of them spin? If your going to be using the same crank over again I would be extremely particular about clearances. I'd use a dial bore gauge and quality micrometer to do the measurements. If you are not assembling it yourself make sure the assembler using this method and not a Plastigage. Plastigage is a good method but not if you want it to be perfect.
Secondly, for an 800-1000hp build I would run wiseco HD and Manley I beams. If you are comfortable with an aluminum rod I'd go with the FFWD rods. As far as the head goes, you need L19 at a minimum, I'm a fan of the OEM MLS but English racing swears by o-ringing the head for over 700hp but who knows.
I'll re use the crank if it checks out. If I'm going to be changing internals at all itll be turbo tuff i beams and ross pistons. Theres a new cometic head gasket with gas filled o rings i was looking into, but the permatorque on a fresh and flat head and block had served me well. Think the tool steel studs are a for sure must none of the bearings spun, they were all seated correctly. I have a video somewhere of the knocking sound i heard. It was very fast, and increased with rpm was a loud clacking more then a knock.
 
My oil filter did this to me also when my gsx was all stock. I was using a k&n oil filter with royal purple at the time. It backed most of way off. Oil came out when I was parked. So I jacked it up right there and looked more into the problem. A friend said it was brand of filter and I said no way. So got a wix oil filter put on with royal purple and did same thing over a matter of time. Just like k&n oil filter. So I said why not I'm doing this with others I got 2 can't rember but did same thing over time. And why I don't know so I changed the middle stud out and run oem now.
 
Oh man. Your car registers 0psi oil pressure you pull over immdiately. A tow is way more cheaper than a rebuild. Sucks. I feel your pain. Truly do.

During a vacation 2500 miles from my house my fp inline filter broke. I was in the middle of nowhere in Ohio. I shut down as soon as I saw smoke mid pull. I walked until I could get phone service and called my cousin to bring me some oil. Luckily the way the filter is designed you can bypass it just by removing it, and my oil line went strait to the fitting on the filter housing. Even more lucky was the fact that I only dumped 2.5 quarts of oil when I went to refill.

I drove around a few more days, then drove the car 2,500 miles back to Arizona. During my yearly tear down my bearings had no abnormal wear. I replaced them as I do every year anyway.

I have a meticulous maintenance schedule I keep on my car. I usually run 35-40psi of boost, drive the car very hard, and put at least 15,000-20,000 miles on it every year.
 
During a vacation 2500 miles from my house my fp inline filter broke. I was in the middle of nowhere in Ohio. I shut down as soon as I saw smoke mid pull. I walked until I could get phone service and called my cousin to bring me some oil. Luckily the way the filter is designed you can bypass it just by removing it, and my oil line went strait to the fitting on the filter housing. Even more lucky was the fact that I only dumped 2.5 quarts of oil when I went to refill.

I drove around a few more days, then drove the car 2,500 miles back to Arizona. During my yearly tear down my bearings had no abnormal wear. I replaced them as I do every year anyway.

I have a meticulous maintenance schedule I keep on my car. I usually run 35-40psi of boost, drive the car very hard, and put at least 15,000-20,000 miles on it every year.
We gotta start hangin out LOL
 
Well i guess the head is gone now too.... Pulled cam caps, the cams look good (bc272) not that I'm going to re use them, but check this out
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This is only on e3 and e4 all others look mint, and the cam journals under e3 and e4 both still are un marked. Sludgy oil under both of those though, all others were clean.
 

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